86 Fuel Pump

[Lennecke]

My fuel pump is not working (expected as the bike sat for at least 5 years). I have been checking out the bike (new to me) and found that when I turn on the ignition and move the kill switch on/off the pump would (sometimes) go through one stroke. I took it apart and cleaned the points (really did not look that bad) and re-tested, but got nothing!

I put a meter on the 2 wires in the harness to verify power and don't get a reading??? The fuse for the pump is powered and good. Any ideas where the power feed feeds through this bike? It's an '86 Aspencade.

Thanks,


Lennecke

 

[Joep]

You pick up the wiring diagram/schematic yet? .. you can go from the pump backward and trace it to the fuse on that.. south out undoing the whole harness.... sounds like a flakey connector or mouse eaten wire harness...... also is battery peaked?

 

[slabghost]

It may be your ignition switch or kill switch. Try moving the switches through full range back and forth a dozen or more times and re check for voltage.

 

[robin1731]

The 1200 fuel pump doesn't work unless the engine is turning over.

 

[slabghost]

robin1731 » Fri Dec 27, 2013 8:36 am[/url]":14ee1dtv]
The 1200 fuel pump doesn't work unless the engine is turning over.

I don't have the wiring diagram to verify but I believe the electric fuel pump on the 1200 will cycle each time the switches are turned to run position and will continue to cycle if left in the run position. 1000 and 1100 fuel pumps are mechanical and will not pump unless the motor is turning over.

 

[Lennecke]

:thanks: all for the info/things to check. I'll check the fuel pump on/off while cranking when it gets a bit warmer in the shop.

I DO (or at least did) have mice in the fairing up by the headlight. I've vacuumed as much out as I can but I need to remove the external area (or internal dash?). How to get this off :head bang:

Again, thanks for all the suggestions.



Lennecke

 

[slabghost]

I'm sure someone will be along to say how that comes apart but if you had mice you most likely have bare and or broken wires. Those buggers love destroying wires.

 

[backlander]

Troubleshooting the fuel pump. Page before this one shows the wiring schematic for the pump. gallery/image_page.php?album_id=1991&image_id=19658

 

[Joep]

To access behind the dash you need to remove the mirrors and the trim plate and windshield and the headlight.. this allows you to get to the screws for the dash...you may want to remove the fairing and lowers also to check the wiring from the frame harness... remove the pocket covers and the side plates.. this will give you room to run a light inside the fairing and assess the wires..

 

[Lennecke]

Mike - Thanks for the info - I'll be checking into it later today/tomorrow.

JoeP - Thanks - I'll be ripping into this tonight. I'm sure there are 'issues' with the mice being behind the fairing. I know they munched on the air cleaner (does not look like they got into the intake).




Lennecke

 

[Lennecke]

OK, to close (maybe) this thread, or at least change direction, I attempted to get the Wing started - Never heard it run although the guy I got it from told me it did (no battery in bike when I got it). Well, I got it home and connected a battery I had lying around and got it to turn over (step 1 confirmed - engine not seized) but I know the carbs were in dire need of rebuild and the gas tank needs a good cleaning/replacing. Got it on the lift, removed lower bodywork and air cleaner, hooked up a fuel tank from the handlebars to the carb intake (disconnected the fuel pump and pulled the lines from it). Turned the key and pressed the start button but got nothing! No crank, no nothing (lights all work and all fuses functional). Well I messed with it a bit following the info from this string and somehow the engine started to turn over when I pressed the starter (no really - I did not do anything except check 'stuff'). Bad thing is that the engine only turned over about one time then came to a hard stop! Verified the battery was good (even put a second to help just in case the amps were not enough) and still nothing - wanted to turn over but could not. Pulled the plugs, put towels over the plug holes, moved the plug wires 'way' out of the way and pressed the starter - gas shot out of the left front cylinder about 15 feet! (was not expecting that much gas). Well to make a long story longer I cleaned up the gas, and replaced the rag and pressed start again - I now know the ignition system works! (somewhat small fire but scared the heck out of my wife who was at that time brining me a cup of coffee). Had to use the CO2 extinguisher and put it out, no harm, no foul.

Cleaned up the rather small mess, put plugs back in engine and with the good wife on the fire extinguisher (just in case) I used starting fluid with no gas just to see if it would fire off.

Darn thing runs great! Now to clean up the carbs.

I hooked up the fuel pump (wires only) to see if I could feel/hear any clicking while cranking the engine over and it turned over about 5/10 times, then stopped, now back to the same thing as before - hit the starter and nothing - Guess I really do have a wiring gremlin that needs to be tracked down and fixed.

(but it runs :clapping: )

Lennecke

 

[slabghost]

Congratulations! Uh. Let's skip any more fires okay?

 

[82a]

for a quick fix, you could jumper a switched, fused wire direct from bat to starter solenoid,

watch out for hydrolocking, you can easily end up up with a bent rod and done engine

i test spin the engine first, with the kill switch on, to rule out possible hydrolocking issues

it's also easy to set up a bypass generic electrical fuel pump

 

[joedrum]

great made progress.... house didn't burn down either good day :Egyptian:

 

[Ansimp]

82a » Sun Dec 29, 2013 7:20 am[/url]":2vu1efeh]
for a quick fix, you could jumper a switched, fused wire direct from bat to starter solenoid,

watch out for hydrolocking, you can easily end up up with a bent rod and done engine

i test spin the engine first, with the kill switch on, to rule out possible hydrolocking issues

it's also easy to set up a bypass generic electrical fuel pump

Damage can occur while winding over with just the starter, make sure that the fuel tap works and you always leave it off when the bike is not running. I like to switch the fuel off before I shut down the bike just to be on the safe side.

 

[backlander]

It's hydrolocking. If it started and ran with no problem once the cylinder cleared itself thru the plug hole, it then refilled itself and hydrolocked again. Your going to have to fix that carb, the float and needle are stuck. Sometimes you can unstick them by tapping on the bowl. Would probably be best to remove the carb rack and at least clean the bowls, jets and make sure the floats are set right.

 

[slabghost]

Ansimp » Sat Dec 28, 2013 4:48 pm[/url]":bl801f4p]

82a » Sun Dec 29, 2013 7:20 am[/url]":bl801f4p]
for a quick fix, you could jumper a switched, fused wire direct from bat to starter solenoid,

watch out for hydrolocking, you can easily end up up with a bent rod and done engine

i test spin the engine first, with the kill switch on, to rule out possible hydrolocking issues

it's also easy to set up a bypass generic electrical fuel pump

Damage can occur while winding over with just the starter, make sure that the fuel tap works and you always leave it off when the bike is not running. I like to switch the fuel off before I shut down the bike just to be on the safe side.

+1 and start the bike before opening the fuel valve.

 

[Lennecke]

Yeah, fire - you'd think I would know a thing or 2 about those as I am a volunteer firefighter in my 'off' time. Guess it just goes to show that you never think anything 'bad' is going to happen to you, only the 'other guy'. Well, lesson learned (I hope!!).

Yeah, the engine was hydro-locked. I've pulled the carbs off and will be doing a rebuild on them.


Thanks ALL! :wave:

Lennecke