alternator conv PLUG

[wilcoy02]

Since I am trying to track down an electrical problem I just need to know :

from the diagram on little beavs conv post #38

The "B" post on alt goes back to the battery with a fuse and connects to the battery positive post.

The "IG" post goes to the rr male black wire plug.

The "S" post on alt can go either: to the battery positive post or
run a short 2 inch wire to the "B" post on the alt.

The "L" post on alt is not used.


Do I have this correct?

 

[wilcoy02]

.

The "S" post on alt can go either: to the battery positive post or
run a short 2 inch wire to the "B" post on the alt.


This can not be correct as this will drain the battery. So where does the "s" get connected to as it needs to be hot ONLY when the key is on?


The "L" post on alt is not used.


Do I have this correct?

 

[slabghost]

Safest way I know to power it would be through a relay activated by a circuit such as the tail light which is on whenever the key is on.

 

[n2ppn]

OK,

"B" is for the battery, usually a HEAVY gauge wire (as big as you can get) connected right up to the positive battery post (if you use a fuse on it, make sure the fuse rating is HIGHER than the rated output of the alternator, or you could wind up with a dead battery, the reason to use a fuse on the output wire is to protect the wire leading TO the alternator from starting a fire if for some reason it shorts out ... fuse should be as close to the positive battery terminal as physically possible)

"IGN" is for the ignition power TO the alternator usually from anything that is powered up whenever the ignition key is in the ON position (like your taillight for example)

"S" is for the internal regulator's "sensing" circuit, it needs to have a comparison voltage to determine if the regulator needs to increase field winding voltage/current to increase alternator output on the "B"terminal (that's where it compares the two voltage inputs from) S can be hooked up to the "B" terminal with no worry of parasitic drain on the battery, or can also be supplied from a switched "hot" ignition circuit that is on only when key is in the ON position

"L" is for the old "idiot" lights on a car's dashboard that illuminated if you stalled the car, or broke your belt. It goes "hot"(to light up the idiot lamp) when there is no output from the alternator and all the other terminals are energized, but nothing is turning the alternator.

Don't fret about the wiring... it's not all that complicated...


Rich

 

[dan filipi]

OK,

"B" is for the battery, usually a HEAVY gauge wire (as big as you can get) connected right up to the positive battery post (if you use a fuse on it, make sure the fuse rating is HIGHER than the rated output of the alternator, or you could wind up with a dead battery, the reason to use a fuse on the output wire is to protect the wire leading TO the alternator from starting a fire if for some reason it shorts out ... fuse should be as close to the positive battery terminal as physically possible)

"IGN" is for the ignition power TO the alternator usually from anything that is powered up whenever the ignition key is in the ON position (like your taillight for example)

"S" is for the internal regulator's "sensing" circuit, it needs to have a comparison voltage to determine if the regulator needs to increase field winding voltage/current to increase alternator output on the "B"terminal (that's where it compares the two voltage inputs from) S can be hooked up to the "B" terminal with no worry of parasitic drain on the battery, or can also be supplied from a switched "hot" ignition circuit that is on only when key is in the ON position

"L" is for the old "idiot" lights on a car's dashboard that illuminated if you stalled the car, or broke your belt. It goes "hot"(to light up the idiot lamp) when there is no output from the alternator and all the other terminals are energized, but nothing is turning the alternator.

Don't fret about the wiring... it's not all that complicated...


Rich

Excellent explanation!

FYI, nothing needs to be connected to the "L" unless you want to install an idiot light.

 

[wilcoy02]

Thank You very very much.

I am going to try a 150 mile trip tomorrow to see if I still have problems or not.

 

[danf]

I only have one wire from the plug that hooks up to the ignition wire and it's the IG...and of course B, but I didn't bother with the sensing one S to B and I didn't hook up L to anything is my bike Ok or do you think it's gonna blow up ??? Oh, I did put a 50 amp fuse in a 55 amp alt. should i change it to 60 amp? :shock:

 

[n2ppn]

Beav, Unless you have a 60 Amp fuse handy that'll drop right into your fuse holder, the 50 should be OK... I think if you shot 50 amps into the batteries on our GL's they'd probably go off like a Russian "Toe Tapper" or a claymore.... (just kiddin' probably just boil out)..

The ONLY reason for the fuse is to prevent fire in case of a crash or abrasion of the big ole wire running back from under the fairing cover to the battery... this way the fuse blows before the wire turns into a glowing mass of molten metal....


Rich

 

[wilcoy02]

n2ppn

You are very good at explaining things
Your analogies are very helpful and very easy for us who know very little to understand.

You are awsome

 

[n2ppn]

You guys owe me a new keyboard!!!

I just spit out my coffee all over the darn thing when I read that!!!

I am an electrician for over 35 years and have had my wing since she was brand new... just wanted to share some of what I've found over the years....

(the jumping out the ignition idea used to be an easy way to steal my dad's car and go out for a ride when I was a kid, the old alternators were great at energizing the ignition back through the wiring from the alternator to the key switch, all you had to do was pop the hood and get a paper clip....)


Rich

Awesome, I think not! heh heh