Another "Better Idea"....

[scdmarx]

Adding the electric started was a great idea. They're nice when they work. Keeps us all fat. But who ever's idea it was to make the kick start option go away should be shot.

This morning my one way clutch won't engage. Kept trying till I could hear the battery slowing down. My tent is on a uphill parking area, so I pull the bike in pointing uphill. Everyday I sit on it and roll it backwards out of the tent to level ground near the street. There is no reverse, so to bump start it I would have to turn it around, loseing my down hill in the process. This it ain't gonna work. Push/run and jump on? HAHAHA, I don't think so - this ain't my old Hodaka!

How do you start an electric start motorcycle when the electric starting system refuses to cooperate?

 

[joedrum]

so you had a hodaka ....they were great bikes :music: pushing a dress wing is tough i cant do it ....i cant push a naked wing either ....it takes two to do it or a hill as you said :fiddle: :beg: :rant: :hihihi: :mrgreen:

 

[dan filipi]

Push and pop the clutch, only way I know of.

I wish mine had a kick starter too.

 

[slabghost]

It will push start but it's a lot easier with help. By any chance have you changed oil recently? Many of the newer oils don't play nice with wet clutches.

 

[dan filipi]

It will push start but it's a lot easier with help. By any chance have you changed oil recently? Many of the newer oils don't play nice with wet clutches.

Good point. My starter clutch will spin free a lot of the time with 20/50.

 

[scdmarx]

Yes, Rotella 15-40

How hard is it to get to the starter clutch? Is it right there if I pull the starter?

 

[scdmarx]

My manual says you gotta pull the engine out to remove the starter. Is this for real? Good grief!

 

[slabghost]

I'd try draining the oil and put in 30wt no detergent oil 1qt and the remainder with ATF. Bump start and run it easy until warmed up. Park at the top of a hill and shut it off. Try the starter. If no joy bump start again. Run it a bit longer and try it again. ATF should wash the super slip stuff off and get the start clutch working again. Check your Rotella bottle to see if any claims of "enhanced lubricity" are stated. Once it works again drain the oil and refill with any un enhanced lubricity oil you like.

 

[kah92340]

My manual says you gotta pull the engine out to remove the starter. Is this for real? Good grief!

You can pull the starter without pulling the engine. It's a tight squeeze and you have to wiggle it around but it comes out pretty easy. I had to remove my shift lever to make room but some guys say they have done it without removing the lever. If you take out the starter I don't think you can get to the starter clutch but can can get to the chain that goes to the starter clutch I don't know if moving it around forward and backwards would do anything.
My understanding to get to the starter clutch you do have to pull the engine and remove the rear cover.
There are a lot of guys that run rotella oil with no issues.
I have push started mine a couple of times it's not to bad once you get it moving hop on put it in second gear pop the clutch and away you go,

 

[dan filipi]

Sc, did it just start acting up?

I would try lighter weight oil also, 10/30.

 

[thewhiterhino]

When I got my wing last fall about 30% of the time the starter wouldn't engage. After reading lots of posts I added some SeaFoam for about 200 miles and drained and filled with Amsoil Motorcycle oil and have not had a re-occurrence since. We'll see what cold weather brings this fall.. arty: arty:

 

[slabghost]

Amsoil is good stuff. I like Mobile1 too. Both though can get by iffy gaskets where the old style oils don't get by.

 

[scdmarx]

Sc, did it just start acting up?

I would try lighter weight oil also, 10/30.

This past week I might only need to push the start button once, or I might have to push it 3 times before it would catch. No noticeable pattern. Today it just won't catch, all it does is spin. It hasn't worked once today at all.

 

[thewhiterhino]

Amsoil is good stuff. I like Mobile1 too. Both though can get by iffy gaskets where the old style oils don't get by.

Sc, did it just start acting up?

I would try lighter weight oil also, 10/30.

This past week I might only need to push the start button once, or I might have to push it 3 times before it would catch. No noticeable pattern. Today it just won't catch, all it does is spin. It hasn't worked once today at all.

Since synthetic oil is a solvent the varnish deposits left by petroleum oil and carbon particles from combustion the deposits in an older engine will be removed over time and sometimes that is what has kept old technology gaskets from leaking. Especially cork and cardboard variety's. The same deposits that we are talking about also gum up the starter clutch and keep the pawls from extending during cranking. I have put over 3000 miles on my wing since changing over and have no leaks yet. Just so you know. :music: k: :music:

 

[slabghost]

You can try either jumping or topping off the battery charge. Sometimes that little extra kick will engage the starter clutch.

 

[scdmarx]

Amsoil is good stuff. I like Mobile1 too. Both though can get by iffy gaskets where the old style oils don't get by.

Since synthetic oil is a solvent the varnish deposits left by petroleum oil and carbon particles from combustion the deposits in an older engine will be removed over time and sometimes that is what has kept old technology gaskets from leaking. Especially cork and cardboard variety's. The same deposits that we are talking about also gum up the starter clutch and keep the pawls from extending during cranking. I have put over 3000 miles on my wing since changing over and have no leaks yet. Just so you know. :music: k: :music:

Somehow I was under the impression that synthetic oil wasn't clutch friendly. That's why I haven't used it. Have I misinterpreted?

 

[slabghost]

Modern oil options include those with (enhanced lubricity) components. Both in dino oils and synthetics. Oils made without the additives will work with wet clutches. If in doubt look for oils stating they are for motorcycles. I believe it says that on the Mobile 1 synthetic oil bottles. I've used it 2 years in my KZ750 with no problems other than a slight oil leak.

 

[Tory]

When I tried rottela a couple years ago,I had the same issue when the temp dropped below 60.
I would drain the fresh oil,seal it into a clean milk jug,soak it in a hot bucket of water,poor it back in and wala,instant start.

I returned back to the honda gn4 10w40 and havent had an issue again.

Nothing against rottela,but I think it was more related to the weight.The rottla was easier to come by than the honda,but it worth the drive to town for me.


Also,keep in mind most deisel oils like rottela have reformulated for trucks with catylist and are reducing the zinc content that made it so good for are solid lifters.
I just feel better using the intended oil for its intended purpose without subbing something else.There are plenty of "motercycle oils" on the market.There should be no need to use the wrong oil.

 

[Andyb]

Synthetic Rotella is 5w-40 in case you want to stick with Rotella. I use it in the winter.

 

[scdmarx]

This is my first date with Rotella. It was on the shelf and I heard it mentioned on the wing-sites a few times, and I grabbed it.

Today I bought a 16oz can of seafoam. I poured about 3/4 of the can into the oil with a quart of atf. My sons gave me a push and I was able to put about 45 miles on it in varying road conditions. Maybe an hour and a half of riding time. Nothing different so far. If it's the clutch, it must be REALLY stuck good!