Bent Frame Suggestions

[Steve83]

I have an '83 frame that's in good shape except for a major dent just forward of the right front engine mount. Anybody here know if this can be straightened? Or should I just get it welded/filled to make it look good? Any suggestions are most welcome!

Thanks!

 

[joedrum]

okay this is kinda easy it seems to me ......the damage is so severe looking for one reason ....nothing moved ...except the damage area it was perfectly streched and hammer in one blow ....it is perfectly fine how it is ...the motor and all held that solid as could be ....if it was me id just fill it with the best stuff possible and paint ...but thats me i do think its fine ...if the frame fits the motor with no problems that would be more comfermation .... ....heck when you look at it closely you can see the whole trama in the paint cracks there circle like and contain...thats my opinion

 

[dan filipi]

Like Joe said, the engine bolts on and adds to the rigidity of the frame so much that it's all virtually a solid package once bolted up.
I would fill it with weld and grind it smooth.
I don't think I would try to straighten it without the engine bolted in place tight to keep the frame aligned.

 

[Steve83]

Thanks, guys - that's pretty much the way I was leaning. The engine was not in a bind at all when it came out. I wonder what the PO hit - must've been a pretty good jolt!

 

[slabghost]

Most frames get bent by the engine guard mounts. I don't worry about it at all.

 

[joedrum]

one thing for sure this shows you how tough this package is ....being a farmer ive seen steel do some really strange stuff .....some tractors turn steel into play doh

 

[brianinpa]

Whatever the PO hit, I am sure that wasn't the only mark it left.

 

[mcgovern61]

That is a pretty good hit! The steel is stretched at a support point. I would be inclined to crop out that section and weld in new pipe (IMHO)! :swoon:

 

[AApple]

:shock:
Ida know...that looks kinda flimsy to me. I think if it were me(and it ain't), I would maybe try to get some flat steel and form it to fit over the caved in place, and weld it on...not cutting the frame out or anything, just an overlay. That's assuming that you could still get the case guard, or anything else that might be positioned there back on. I would be concerned about there being a stress fracture there that would fail at the worst possible time.
Definitely took a big hit right there....wonder what the heck happened?

 

[joedrum]

a rather good plan id say joel ...i would beef up cave in some ...but you would have to really just touch weld and hammer in a neve get the metal very hot or the effort would actualy weaken it ...the place is taped out on stress already welding as it is done today and welding for strenth are not even related ive never seen anything in my life done more wrong ...its all about production in welding the job of actualy making something strong is discounted ...some really good looking dumb weld will hurt the frame bigtime ...and also make it move some ...its like stretching a rope till its last possible stay together and them locking it in ...it could break then from just vibration

 

[dan filipi]

Agreed.
The tube is one piece as it sits now.
Improper stick welding it (for example) can easily blow through it making it weaker.
I'm not a skilled welder by any stretch so if I really wanted to make it strong and pretty, I'd have a skilled pro welder sleeve it extending well beyond the damage.

 

[mcgovern61]

I agree that improper stick welding is REAL BAD for that location. That tube was already pre-stressed when it was bent into shape. That hit stretched the steel at one of the stress points in the bend forward of the frame mount for the engine (which is also been heated from that weld). I cannot speak for motorcycle frames, but I know that in boats and ships, any tubing that is no longer tubing as a result of changing the shape dramatically effects it's strength. Adding steel to it (via doubler tube or flat stock) might seem to improve the strength, but it can actually cause further weakening of the location. A properly done crop and replace of the tubing is still questionable, but if the steel tubing is whole otherwise (not corroded inside) then it might work better.

The stress of pounding the street and the torque of the engine from shifting gears is pretty high.

 

[dan filipi]

In many ways it's a judgement call.
We haven't seen it in real life and thinning of the metal from rust , in the lower sections of the frame especially, could be the sole determining factor what should be done.
Not trying to cover my ass on this but if it were me and I had the frame stripped down bare, I'd have a shop that works with metal every day have a look at it and make suggestions.
If I didn't have it stripped down I'd print a very clear picture and at least show that to them.
Of course like we're seeing it here it looks bad, being there might not look as bad.

 

[scdmarx]

I doubt there's anything you could do to bring it back to it's original strength and functional design. Besides replacing the frame. If it was me, I'd either replace the frame (preferred) or get away with TIG welding a gusset-clean it up-paint it.

 

[Steve83]

I've been looking for another frame, but everything I've seen online is either too expensive to ship, doesn't have a title, is in worse shape than mine, or costs more than the bike is worth.

The rest of the frame has some very light surface rust in spots, and the subframe appears rust-free, so I think the interior of the tubing is OK.

I have an '80 frame that's in very good shape, but no title for it, and I'd have to fabricate brackets for the rear brake line and the steering angle sensor.

I'll keep lookin' for another frame, and also have this one media blasted. I'll have a better idea of it's condition then. I wish I could weld - just can't see well enough.

Anybody out there have a decent '83 frame you don't need? :builder:

 

[backlander]

I think it would be cheaper to fix the one you got. With the lower front cross brace at one end of damage and a proper spacer of all thread bolted across the lower frame thru the engine mounts, the shape of the frame should remain intact as the damaged area is cut out and new tube is welded in. The new tube should be strengthened at each splice joint with solid rod inserted into interior of new tube. Outside splice joint welded and ground and you probably couldn't tell it was even done. Just have to get a fabrication person that knows what their doing and use the right welding techniques. That's what I would try.

 

[scdmarx]

I'm kinda just wondering about getting some good paint on it and just ride it the way it is? I mean unless you want to address it now because you got it stripped.
How long has it been like this?
If you think the rest of the frame is in good condition, you're convinced it's not bent/misaligned, and you can't find any cracks around the dent, and if what everyone here says is true that the motor does a good job of holding things together..... what could happen?
If you crash, you end up with the **** end of the stick anyways, so.....? :headscratch:

 

[dan filipi]

......Anybody out there have a decent '83 frame you don't need? :builder:

I do but no title. Sorry.

 

[mcgovern61]

Here is a site that explains how to get a duplicate Title:

https://www.dmv.org/articles/how-to-repl ... cle-title/

 

[dan filipi]

Here is a site that explains how to get a duplicate Title:

https://www.dmv.org/articles/how-to-repl ... cle-title/

Now there's a good idea.

I was thinking this frame I have is the first parts bike but I was wrong. This one is an 83, I might be able to get the title for it if your interested Steve.
We live close, if you want it it's yours. Just have to help me finish pulling the engine. Bring a floor jack. Mine died and cash is short to buy a new one.