BENT INTAKE VALVE.

[mcgovern61]

I just love the removable suitcase bags, and the lack of all the plastic. I hate to upgrade to a newer model goldwing because I don't like the closed up look. But the conventional seat is hard on the wife. Is that an upgraded seat on yours?

The removable suitcase bags come in real handy, particularly when you have to work on the bike, off in two seconds! My seat is upgraded, it is an older Road Sofa which I just recently found a new drivers backrest from the manufacturer. It is comfy!

 

[handyrandy]

Did you have to move your rear trunk back to use the road sofa?

 

[handyrandy]

Another question, I notice a very slight side to side play in 2 valve guides. 1 intake, one exhaust. The other 2 are fine. Are valve guides hard to change?

Honda says that acceptable tolerance is .003 intake, .004 exhaust. I can imagine the play being any worse than that. What would it hurt to just put it back together the way it is?

I have read that changing valve guides means re cutting the seats and everything, that just lapping is unacceptable.

I guess I should borrow some small whole gauges and check everything out exactly.

 

[dan filipi]

I'll get out to the garage shortly here and pull the valve then send it out.

 

[handyrandy]

I'll get out to the garage shortly here and pull the valve then send it out.

Thanks Dan, any tips on the loose valve guides problem? Should I be looking for an entire head?

 

[dan filipi]

Personally I would put it back together with the old guides but head shops should have guides, at least for the 1200 heads I did they had them, they may be the same guide.

As far as a complete head goes it's going to be worn also so your better off doing what your doing.

 

[handyrandy]

Personally I would put it back together with the old guides but head shops should have guides, at least for the 1200 heads I did they had them, they may be the same guide.

As far as a complete head goes it's going to be worn also so your better off doing what your doing.

I hear you, it has been running for years with a bent valve I think, because I have always heard a ticking sound from that cylinder nobody could identify. So it has to be a far sight better than it was.

 

[mcgovern61]

Did you have to move your rear trunk back to use the road sofa?

I did move my rear trunk back 2", but only because my wife and I are not small people! The trunk move was easy, I just drilled new holes in the mounting rails and moved the bolts.

 

[handyrandy]

Dan, I got the valve yesterday and it looks good. I am starting assembly today, and I am sure I will have questions. Super thanks for all the help!

 

[dan filipi]

Wow, got there a day early!

Let us know how it's going Randy.

 

[handyrandy]

Finally got started on it this morning. Got the valves lapped in and installed with new seals. Now I am prepping the block with my roloc white plastic bristle brush.

About the head bolts, I have heard conflicting instructions. Grease on the threads, moly lube on the washer. Or moly lube on the threads and washers. Moly lube on the threads is supposed to give a false torque reading, but that is what the version of the honda shop manual I have says. I am guessing this is the same moly lube I put on the drive shaft splines, correct?

 

[dan filipi]

I am guessing this is the same moly lube I put on the drive shaft splines, correct?

I wire brush the threads clean and smear the threads and washers with Moly lube.
This will ensure proper torquing.

 

[handyrandy]

I am cleaning up the block and am having trouble knowing when to quit cleaning. There are a few little spots of stuff that I cannot get off with the roloc brush. How does it look?

I should probably clean all oil residue with solvent from the mating surfaces when I bolt the head on right?

Also the OEM head gasket needs no sealer because it coated with its own graphite heat activated sealing compound right?

Thanks much!

 

[AApple]

Looks pretty gud to me. Be sure to clean all of the debris out of the bores, and the water jackets. Use compressed air, and maybe some brake cleaner to get it all. :good:
You could also run over the tops of the bores with a sanding block and some 200 grit paper to see if there are any low/high spots.

 

[dan filipi]

Looks good to me too.
I slide the edge of a razor blade over the entire surface carefully to scrape any other residue.
It's a good idea to use a steel straight edge to check for any warpage of the block and head.

I had some problems with non OEM head gaskets leaking so from now on I use spray on Copper Coat sealer.
It also helps to fill tiny scratches in the surface.
So far so good.

 

[joedrum]

randy it looks good and yes clean up the mating surface and maybe the stuff dan was talking about ...ive never used it but obviously it work out better when dan did it and ican garentee dan cleaned his job good to ....cant be that much in cost not to.....thats what i think...

 

[handyrandy]

Thanks for all the help! I went to the store and got some 220 and 400 grit sandpaper, and some brake cleaner. I sanded the mating surfaces with the sand paper and a large flat piece of cold finish bar stock. and cleaned it with the brake cleaner. The surfaces look great now thanks to everybody's advice. And they are flat to .002.

I lubed the head bolts with the moly 45 grease, changed the O rings on the oil orifice. Time for assembly.

It calls for sealer on the cam holder mounting surfaces? Silicone gasket maker OK?

 

[dan filipi]

It calls for sealer on the cam holder mounting surfaces? Silicone gasket maker OK?

I never have used any sealer there, actually I just recently saw the manual calling for sealer there.

I'd use a very small amount of the high temp oil resistant silicone to try and keep it from getting into the oil passages.

 

[handyrandy]

Looks like another trip to town. Thanks Dan.

 

[handyrandy]

I ended up wiping the sealer it back off. I am too paranoid of dried sealer getting in the oil orifices.

Anyway I am installed the water pipe with new o rings. I used the red gasket stuff on em. Hope I never have to take the one apart back in the middle of the engine.

New thermostat, checked the water pump, The new timing belts I bought last year from napa are for the 1200 I just found out. So I put the old ones back on and set up the belt timing to see if I could get it right. All the marks lined up and I set the valve clearances and all seems to be in order. Scary though. I can see how people screw it up so much.

I will order the right belts from napa in the morning, Gates 5119 or T274.

I thought I had dropped a nut down the exhaust pipe so I took them off, and discovered that the bottom left frame rail was all rotten on bottom and half cracked, so I spent the last 2 hours welding it back solid.

I thought I would have it running tonight, but not gonna happen.

Question, When I installed the belts, I got about 1/2 inch of overall flex in the belt. Is this about right?