Bertha has charging system issues

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I got it fired up again. I was able to test for AC volotage on the three wires from the stator all three wires produce virutally identical volt reading ranging from 29 volts AC at idle to 79 Volts at 4500 rpm, again no ground leaks, good consistent resistance on the three wire set coming off the stator and now the stator is proven as producing volts ac up to 80 Volts plus at higher rev ranges. The stator is just fine, its in the rectifier. So to prove that innovation is the source for improvement, I am going to patch on a later model RR from a CBR600. It has 7 leads and matches the wire coding for the current bikes connector, so it simply soldering on the old Rectifier harness plug to the new RR wiring, plug it in and mount it, and than remove the old rectifier and the old regulator as I will be installing a combined unit, the extra wioring is redundant and is not to be cut, just politely put out of the way. 30 bucks on flea bay for a local tested unit sent ups ground. Free shipping
 
Sounds like the right plan to me. No more cold soldered wires okay? And I strongly recommend heat shrink tubing over electrical tape.
 
Yea I have been repairing various areas where the PO had used tape and some bad joins in the harness for added accessories that I have been removing. Cleaning up the harness and looking for a local part today, I know a guy that collects CB750's and CB900's, he should have a part hopefully.

Other than that working on saddle bags today, I have the mounts all marked, I just have to finish up with the drilling and get them painted before I put them on.
 
Hey 1100 and 1200 owners. Is the RR on your bikes the combined one, and is it a 5 or 7 wire unit? The place I found the part says a lot of the older wings (the 1000's) go to the combined RR off the 1100 or 1200. Have you heard of this? I tend to trust a wrench's opinion rather than a sellers. No offense sellers of the world, but on this one I go with the tech opinion.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=126318#p126318:1cg6rde4 said:
joedrum » Mon Jul 21, 2014 8:39 pm[/url]":1cg6rde4]
hmmmm yes ... ok i am up to speed now ... if you had a 1100 reg an retifier unit on hand you could just plug that end and see what happens ive done that before as a test and its not at all hard to do as test ... i dont remember anything hard about it
I haven't done it myself but I've read of others like Joe have done it.
 
I have sourced parts, I have my choice of a RR form a GL1100 or a GL1200. Or I can get the individual ones as he just took in 2 GL1000's that he will be scrapping. I am thinking I want to upgrade and run with the 1200 version. It has the 2 green leads, 2 red leads, the three yellow and one black. That way I can patch in the sensor lead off the old three prong regulator and control the volts. If you fail to account for that, I have read that it can lead to overcharging the battery. You simply pint the black into the male side of the connector that way it hooks into the new RR, and works like the older ones.

He is going to take more of my parts in trade. So keeping my fingers crossed, but it sounds like I am a go on the charging system fix. Boy it helps to know people, he is saving my butt a second time.

And I really hope this is the last major issue. Getting tired of dealing with the weird stuff, but I know it comes up. Barn bikes are not perfect bikes.

And if I can get it running on an operative charging system where its getting the healthy 13.5 volts, this thing will run awesome, it runs super good onthe charged battery, and is it drops it gets weaker and weaker. I will need some jet adjustment, but not much when this is all done. And I am hoping the free breathing exhaust will take care of the rest.

SO I am off to sand and paint, and strip out our old RV trailer.
 
Well success!!

I acquired 2 Rectifier Regulators from a GL1200 (not the same bike obviously) and got the harness set up to accept the combined units. You take the black lead going to the regulator, and pull its male pin, than lead it to the harness where the rectifier hooks up. The harness side has a third green lead occupying that leads to a blank slot on the male side of the rectifier plug in. I simply removed the extra green lead that leads into the harness and replaced it with the male pin from the black regulator lead (this is the sensor lead and is needed for the new RR) from the old regulator. After that, I simply mounted the RR where the rectifier mounts. I removed the old regulator, and sealed off the green and yellow leads. I also sealed off the extra green lead too. Hooked everything up, and boom. 13.9 volts on the battery at 4500 rpm, and a straight 13.00 volts at 900 rpm idle. I am concerned about the location and cooling, so I am going to assemble a pigtail to give me room to move the RR up to where the old regulator mounts on the tank shell, but she is up and running great!!!

Like a suspected, the weak voltage affected the spark, and overall performance of the bike. She runs outstanding. I have a few minor issues to adjust out with jets, but man it runs awesome.

No need to pull a motor again, and I am back in the black! On to the new saddle bags!!!

Think I am starting to get it on these ol girls.
 
Thanks, this is the one thing I have managed not to screw up this week. Getting a vacuum leak, I think is the filter assembly, gotta redo the base gasket onit.
 
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