Brake disk deglazing

[tuna boy]

My rotors are glazed too. 25 k on stock pads. Are the OEM pads the reason? Should we be using metallic pads to cut the glaze and keep brake system working better?

 

[brianinpa]

dan filipi » Thu Mar 13, 2014 4:31 pm[/url]":3jjzsh15]
I need to freshen mine up.
Front and rear breaks suck bad especially after the fronts got soaked with fork oil from leaking seals.

I remembered that I forgot to change my brake pads today when I took the 1100 for a test ride. The old girl doesn't stop so well on on one rotor up front. :roll:

 

[Ansimp]

tuna » Sat Mar 15, 2014 5:59 am[/url]":2n71p190]
Did you remove the rotors before the sanding. Please let us know how the master cylinder works out.

As per post #17 Removed to do the backside or internal of the discs
Rode again yesterday and so far happy with the CBR MC except it does not have an agle mount or a pretty GW on the cover. I will investigate the original one for better performance if possible. I did notice a similar situation with my mates Ducati Darmah which has similar large single pot calipers when we tried the CBR MC.

 

[tuna boy]

When I look closely at the pictures of your rotors they look exactly like mine. Were you using OEM pads. I really don't think that the OEM pads are compatable with the stock rotors. Do you think that drilling the rotors would help clean up the glazing?

 

[zman]

tuna » Fri Mar 14, 2014 3:20 pm[/url]":141t1szy]
When I look closely at the pictures of your rotors they look exactly like mine. Were you using OEM pads. I really don't think that the OEM pads are compatable with the stock rotors. Do you think that drilling the rotors would help clean up the glazing?

Tuna, Cintered pads are a hard pad and will cut a rotor prematurely, they were used as OEM, Some use a semi metalic organic compound that is easier on rotors but arent as heat resistant as the cintered so there can be some fading depending on how you drive. For most touring needs an organic compound will do just fine and will help preserve the rotors.

 

[Ansimp]

tuna » Sat Mar 15, 2014 8:20 am[/url]":3qtd6hhx]
When I look closely at the pictures of your rotors they look exactly like mine. Were you using OEM pads. I really don't think that the OEM pads are compatable with the stock rotors. Do you think that drilling the rotors would help clean up the glazing?

Cross drilling the rotors would be to improve braking performance, better heat dissipation and wet weather drying. I have been advised that they are extremely hard to drill and will experiment with some old Cbr discs first as I imagine they will require about 40 holes in each disc rotor.
They were aftermarket eBay pads, fairly cheap if I remember correctly. The thing to remember is that the Rats Nest has done some serious work. LA to Sturgis and back in 6 1/2 days via Zion, Ouray,Black Hills ( loop around Rushmore) and back down west to Newcastle Wy, Tahoe, Yosemite and PCH down to La. Wore out the back Shinko in 6000 miles and my brother wore out his Metzeler 888 in 9000 miles.

 

[slabghost]

Drilling the rotors will require high carbon bits. A very slow drill. And liberal amount of cutting oil along with a great deal of patience.

 

[Ansimp]

slabghost » Sat Mar 15, 2014 12:58 pm[/url]":19in7ya1]
Drilling the rotors will require high carbon bits. A very slow drill. And liberal amount of cutting oil along with a great deal of patience.

That's what I was afraid of

 

[joedrum]

yep that's a lot of work drilling rotors

 

[tuna boy]

It would be great if someone had a good Rockwell C scale tester that check one for hardness. Also the glaze on the steel surface is very hard, much harder than the base steel. I used to run into glazed material, it was always a bear to break through the outer surface. Also a lot of the imported high speed drills are made of poor quality tool steel. Anyone here drill their own rotors? Once something is glazes it has a very hard outer shell. This is one reason that you see cast iron rotors, they are compatible with most any brake pad material.

 

[tuna boy]

So if I ran sintered brake pads would they cut through the glaze on my rotors? I understand that they wear rotors faster. If they did cut the glaze I would buy one pair and rotate that set to all 3 calipers until I had the glaze off all 3. With the glaze off the stock setup would stop better and drilling the rotors would be easier.

 

[Joep]

Only issue with that method is the wear pattern that ends up on the pads from the rotors ..... a grooved rotor will cause the pass to wear to it... and a worn pad will wear the next rotor.. so you could be causing wear issues this way... I base this on breaking in two new pieces okc wood or steel to fit close.. rubbing then together to cause mating imperfect edges...

 

[tuna boy]

I agree with your perspective but...the sintered pads start flat so they would hit the high edges first and wear down the high stuff first...next a pull the pads and dress them with a file, new flat pads. What do you think about my idea of the OEM pads not being really compatible with the stainless grade chosen. Think would you rather have to pull the 3 rotors to bust the glaze or swap pads around and let the brakes do the hard work?

 

[Ansimp]

My pads have a high metal content and still I had heavily glazed disc rotors...

 

[tuna boy]

OK, your metallic pads glaze so the idea of busting the glaze with the pads is off the table. Glazing is an almost glass hard surface condition about .001-.002 thick. I don't think sanding the surface you can uniformly remove that much material. With sanding I think you mostly just get a uniformly shine free surface but not a clean from the factory disc. When you put the metallic pads in are you sure removed all the glaze before you started with the new set? I can see why drilling the rotors would be a pain. Carbide drills maybe. Sorry about being such a pain about the glaze issue, I think I am done. Thanks for the feedback.

 

[tuna boy]

Sorry I am back for more. With glazing being such a common problem in the older wings it makes you think that it must compromise the braking ability of the bike. The stainless brake lines help but I think that the friction coefficient of the glazed rotor has got to be less than a non-glazed rotor. I am still considering buying one set of sintered metallic pads to see if I cut the glaze with them.

 

[dan filipi]

Go for it tuna. It may do exactly that.

 

[mcgovern61]

I am using the organic kevlar pads and they are not only lasting twice as long, but my braking power has increased enough to be noticed.

 

[PeterDas]

mcgovern61 » Wed Mar 19, 2014 8:09 am[/url]":1ujriedv]
I am using the organic kevlar pads and they are not only lasting twice as long, but my braking power has increased enough to be noticed.

Where did you get the Kevlars?

 

[mcgovern61]

PeterDas » Wed Mar 19, 2014 3:57 pm[/url]":2zs375wc]

mcgovern61 » Wed Mar 19, 2014 8:09 am[/url]":2zs375wc]
I am using the organic kevlar pads and they are not only lasting twice as long, but my braking power has increased enough to be noticed.

Where did you get the Kevlars?

Ebay seller named "Sixity".