canuckxxxx's Single carb manifold build

[canuckxxxx]

joedrum » Fri Jun 20, 2014 7:20 pm[/url]":34fkgd3t]
cant remember how your carb sits but if inline with bike ... i seperated the cable that adjusts in center and worked from there ... i eventually made a real long pull linkaged deal as a safety thing ... the darn bike could get you hurt quick it was so good off idle ..to dam good :heat:

Joe, did you separate that cable housing in the middle and bring both cable ends back to the twist grip? Do you have a round pulley thing on the carb?

 

[joedrum]

no the springs on the carb are plenty of spring i hust use the pull cable that seperated and have it mounted where the heat shield bolts up mine gone ... as for linkage on carb i still used stock set up ... but its highly modified the e choke arm is cot off ....i also flaten the horse shoe looking cable hook up .. its all strait now ... and its flip over so cable hook up points out ... and a sinple electrical eyelet is crimped to cable ... this set still allows for cable adjusting at heat shield mounting spot ... and full throttle pull is 180 degree .. witch i needed as it was to dangerous off idle and this realltamed it down and made it smooth and also just great pull on grip better than i ever had in stock form ...seems most did other things ... i did this in just an hours worth of work it seem maybe less

 

[canuckxxxx]

Thanks for that Joe. It's raining again anyway so I will see what I can do with my cables. Not sure about yours but I took that one throttle spring off of the Weber to make the pull easier so might have to put it back if I go with 1 pull cable only.

BTW there are video of how to put new cable ends on and Motion Pro sell the cable ends so cables should be able to shorten for best fit.

Dan, I am going to take the carb. off again and see it I can adj. so second. opens sooner.

Will report back gentlemen.

Brian

 

[canuckxxxx]

Thanks for that Joe. It's raining again anyway so I will see what I can do with my cables. Not sure about yours but I took that one throttle spring off of the Weber to make the pull easier so might have to put it back if I go with 1 pull cable only.

BTW there are video of how to put new cable ends on and Motion Pro sell the cable ends so cables should be able to shorten for best fit.

Dan, I am going to take the carb. off again and see it I can adj. so second. opens sooner.

Will report back gentlemen.

Brian

(Double Post - mcgovern61)

 

[canuckxxxx]

Here is how the secondary linkage works; the horizontal tab is attached to the throttle shaft and moves up as the throttle is opened.

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• canuckxxxx
• Jun 21, 2014

So just need to bend that tab up a bit to get second. to open sooner. Shouldn't need to take it apart.

As for the pull cable; it looks like it would be about the right length if I took the piece off after the adjuster. I will have to cut the end off the cable and solder a new end on. At least when I cut the end off I can remove the cable from the housing and clean it real good and grease the cable when I put it back in. Will try it with just the pull cable and see how the return action is.

Brian

 

[canuckxxxx]

Sorry forgot to say that the horizontal tab goes up and pushes on the tab sticking out from the vertical lever which operates the secondary.

 

[canuckxxxx]

So instead of trying to bend the tab I put a rubber tube over it so it contacts the other tab sooner. On the second pic you can see lines on the side of the carb. that show the position of the throttle lever when the secondary is starting to open. The original position on the right, new position on left.

Brian

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• canuckxxxx
• Jun 21, 2014

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• canuckxxxx
• Jun 21, 2014

 

[dan filipi]

Clever!

 

[canuckxxxx]

We'll I got it all back together and went for a short road test. I don't think it actually increases performance but it makes the secondary easier to access so you can use it more often. With the previous setting I would get the same rush off acceleration when the tach swung past 4000 RPM and I cranked the secondary open. It's just easier to use now.

I like it and it was easy to do and didn't cost anything so it was worthwhile for me.

Also, Joe I shortened the pull cable, the way you suggested, by separating at the screw adjuster. Made a new cable end out of a brass bolt and soldered it on. Works good.

I think I will do the same with the other cable.

Brian

 

[joedrum]

thats great brian i might try the hose piece too ...as with my very long pull i have for safety off idle this might be good for me also ... i like how this forum works together for the possitives

 

[canuckxxxx]

Would be interesting to so how your, more hi-perf engine, will react to having secondary open sooner. Better make sure you have lots of straight open road in front of you. :moped:

 

[joedrum]

well i did the secondary mod and you know happened ... on first engagement the throttle cable broke on the grip end ... :shock: its probably original cable so i will fix it now ...

i want to thank you brian as this happen in my yard and not far from home ....the dft carbs the secondary do not come in untill 2/3 throttle ,,, so this mod really dose make sense ... cant wait till i get mine ready to try ..... :mrgreen:

 

[joedrum]

well got the cable replaced it was about to go for sure cable looked it aged ... will try out the quicker secondary when things cool down ... man i am glad i got a lot of shade trees

 

[joedrum]

well test is done ... this is another example of how this forum works ... brian ask ?...i respon on what operates the deal ...and then brian work promps me to do the same and wow ...

the result are in ... off idle i still have the safety of the long pull ....but now the pull is shorten up on the high end side as secondary come in sooner ...so overall pull is shorten ...wow

as for hooch i was kind of worried that it might be to much charge at to low rpm ... well i was wrong bigtime ... hooch gooble up this charge no problem ... and is now faster than it was sheesh ... it lunges a bit now ..but seems perfect ....

gee this is one fast oldwing ... the roads were wet as it rained today so i didnt go stupid out there ... but i can tell the results are big .. as it put the second carb in sooner in rpm ...

this is for sure a rocket killer :yahoo: :thanks: brian for thought that made hooch even faster ....man this forum works great :mrgreen:

 

[canuckxxxx]

I'm glad you like it Joe. Probably makes more of a difference on your machine because it will eat all the charge it can get because of your hot rodding. My 1100 likes the secondary to open when the tach swings past 4000rpm. :moped:

Brian

 

[canuckxxxx]

The 2 to 1 adapter is supposed to get to me next week. In the mean time I have installed a ball valve in my coolant return line from my plenum heater. And I mounted my temperature gauge on the gauge cluster and the sensor bulb on the bottom of the plenum. I have closed the valve off quite a bit, probably 25% flow, took some rides, and find that the plenum still heats up to 60c and the bike runs fine. Need to close it until the stumble comes which is my next test as soon as it stops raining.

When I install the adapter I will experiment with closing it more, even closing it completely and see how it runs.

Brian

 

[canuckxxxx]

Forgot you guy like pics.

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• canuckxxxx
• Jun 28, 2014

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• canuckxxxx
• Jun 28, 2014

 

[wbishop]

Such good info here! Looking forward to the results of your tests!

 

[Ansimp]

Nice pics :thanks:

 

[canuckxxxx]

Well I got some bad news today; the 2 into 1 adapter that I ordered from Amazon will not be coming any time soon. Apparently they cannot find one...whatever that means. All you have to do is goodle "Trans-Dapt 2025" and you can find all kinds of them. Maybe it means that they don't want to honour that sale at that price.

My problem is the huge shipping costs to Canada. There are lots of adapters on Ebay, Summit Racing, Jegs etc. for $15 to $17 but the shipping is $25 to $35.

My question: Do any of you know of a source of this adapter that ships to Canada as a reasonable price?

Thanks
Brian