canuckxxxx's Single carb manifold build

[dan filipi]

I noticed a crisper response after hooking up the vac advance on mine to the weber also.
Didn't last long then the diaphragm started leaking

 

[slabghost]

Probably is responding crisper but if the advance leaks you are adding that volume of air into the fuel mixture which could induce a lean condition even with the weber.

 

[canuckxxxx]

dan filipi » Wed Dec 17, 2014 4:02 pm[/url]":36jsm94v]
I noticed a crisper response after hooking up the vac advance on mine to the weber also.
Didn't last long then the diaphragm started leaking

But the strong vacuum is there as long as the engine is running and the throttle is open so it should keep pulling the ignition advance even if the diaphragm is leaking. As long as the leak isn't too fast. Don't you think? :yes:

 

[dan filipi]

Mmm maybe, but mine was leaking so bad I couldn't pump it up at all with the hand pump.

 

[canuckxxxx]

slabghost » Wed Dec 17, 2014 4:04 pm[/url]":1ggmxkbl]
Probably is responding crisper but if the advance leaks you are adding that volume of air into the fuel mixture which could induce a lean condition even with the weber.

Would be a pretty small amount of air that is being sucked into the carb. Where does that port go to inside the Weber...is it below the Ventura? Just wondering if that bit of air leaking in at that point would really make much difference. Bike seems to still idle nice.

 

[slabghost]

It might be adding just enough air to the mix right now to get it right. Much like Joe drilling the bottom plate to increase flow.

 

[canuckxxxx]

slabghost » Wed Dec 17, 2014 4:26 pm[/url]":1i99zfxx]
It might be adding just enough air to the mix right now to get it right. Much like Joe drilling the bottom plate to increase flow.

Hmm...now there is a thought. Would have a similar effect maybe...adding a small amount of air to the mix. And could be made adjustable too.

 

[slabghost]

canuckxxxx » Wed Dec 17, 2014 6:32 pm[/url]":27dr93k9]

slabghost » Wed Dec 17, 2014 4:26 pm[/url]":27dr93k9]
It might be adding just enough air to the mix right now to get it right. Much like Joe drilling the bottom plate to increase flow.

Hmm...now there is a thought. Would have a similar effect maybe...adding a small amount of air to the mix. And could be made adjustable too.

I suppose if no advance is needed. Like using a C5 ignition. An aquarium valve could be plugged on and used for adjusting flow.
:thanks: for that idea.

 

[joedrum]

well i seems this air would be above throttle plate and do nothing it seems....... to me ...but one never knows till tried ....the hole in throttle plate brings in air to the motor for idle ...while the throttle plate is closed ...this is important to keep the off idle transition holes from adding gas charge to the idle ...the mix screw on the other hand ...outlet is below the closed throttle plate and provides all the idle gas charged ...and none from the off idle transition outlets inline with the close throttle plate...thus making the idle circuit leaner by operation and the mix screw controls the lean to rich to just right in the mix screw setting....i dont see any control air that needed in the right spot with vac air above the throttle plate in carb opcorn:

 

[canuckxxxx]

I'm into the third summer of running my single carb setup. I have switched it from 1100 engine to 1200, back to 1100 and now on the 1200 again. Because the 1200 is a bit wider than an 1100 the grab bar elbows have to be moved out for the 1200 or in for the 1100...each time requiring the hose clamps on the ends loosened and then tightened again. My fuel hose runners are starting to look beat up.

IMG 0725

• canuckxxxx
• Jun 14, 2017

I decided to redo the fuel hose runners so I went to Greenline Hose to get some new fuel hose. The hose I bought originally (see post #1) is called "hardwall" because it has a steel wire coil embedded in it to prevent it from kinking when bent. But I found out that they now have the same hose but without the wire coil: it is call "softwall" hose. With my setup the fuel hose doesn't have to bend very much so I bought the softwall hose.

IMG 0718

• canuckxxxx
• Jun 14, 2017

IMG 0730

• canuckxxxx
• Jun 14, 2017

It is much easier to work with than the wire coil stuff. I cut it with a utility knife rather that a hacksaw and wire cutters. Plus you end up with a nice round end which fits over the elbows nicely so doesn't need to be squeezed as much to get an air-tight seal.

softwall

IMG 0721

• canuckxxxx
• Jun 14, 2017

hardwall

IMG 0720

• canuckxxxx
• Jun 14, 2017

I also found that Duplicolor engine paint sticks to it pretty good so I painted the hose the same colour as the engine for looks

IMG 0729

• canuckxxxx
• Jun 14, 2017

BTW the old pieces of fuel hose that I am replacing show no signs of deterioration on the inside at all.

 

[dan filipi]

Looks great painted. How many miles would you say you've put on the old hose?

 

[canuckxxxx]

Maybe 8k or 9k miles. So I suppose it is not exactly a torture test of the hose.

 

[canuckxxxx]

The best way I found to get a nice neat cut of the fuel hose is to put a utility knife blade in the vice and turn the hose against it. Don't forget to take that blade out of the vice when you're done. :whip:

IMG 0731

• canuckxxxx
• Jun 14, 2017

Another reason I don't like that steel wire coil is that it can really gouge you if you are not careful :shock:

IMG 0732

• canuckxxxx
• Jun 14, 2017

 

[slabghost]

Looks great to me! Hope for a lot more smileage now.

 

[Ansimp]

Nice job :good:

 

[joedrum]

yah none of the hose i use ..witch is radiator hose has ever showed signs of degrade at all ...but there isnt much expoe to fuel flow ..steel runners are cut close to manifold

 

[canuckxxxx]

I went for a 300 km ride the other day. Temperatures in the 60F at the beginning and warming up t 70F by the end. Bike ran great the whole time but I noticed that the temp gauge only went about half way of the normal range.

When I got home I was checking it over and found that the hand valve in the hose that feeds coolant to my intake manifold was turned completely off.

image

• canuckxxxx
• Jun 28, 2014

That explains why the temp gauge was reading low because I had to relocate the gauge sensor to the branch that feeds coolant to the manifold and since I had coolant flow shut off there was no hot coolant going past it.

coolant supply to plenum 1

• canuckxxxx
• Jul 13, 2015

So now I'm thinking heating my manifold, at least during mild weather, is not needed. :headscratch: This might be due to the small intake ports in the 1200 heads along with my smallish manifold runners as well as the long duration/low lift 1200 cams which are supposed to promote high intake velocity. I tried turning coolant off when I was running the 1100 engine and it did not run this good.

Next thing I want to do is try and compare power and gas mileage with and without manifold heat.

 

[joedrum]

Sounds like great test.....never know till things are tried

 

[canuckxxxx]

Just got back from a 200 mile trip to Drumheller. The '82 GL1200 ran flawlessly. The guy I was with was on a new HD Ultra 103 (something, something) and my oldwing did not feel out of place. I am now at over 1000 miles on new Tracker rings I put in last winter so figure it should be fully broken in by now.

Got 41 mpg with the heat to my SC intake fully on. My single carb setup seems to work better on the 1200 than when it was on the 1100 engine. I used to get about 35 mpg with the 1100. Also it idles better now and has more torque.

Will now do a similar ride with heat to manifold turned off and see what the gas mileage is.

Brian

 

[joedrum]

Good deal