well brian has proved copper can work........ can be fast...and incorporate all the features ...great job brian
canuckxxxx's Single carb manifold build
- Thread starter canuckxxxx
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+1 Well done! :good: :salute:[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=137165#p137165:3ob9150s said:
slabghost
Well-known member
That thing is a work of art! Bravo!!!
OP
OP
Well, I put the 220 air jet on the primary side and the 160 on the secondary this AM. So for primary I had 50 idle, 120 main and 220 air. Didn't like it at all; bike would hardly run, definately would not idle. :nea: Seemed to be running on 2 or 3 cylinders. So swapped the air jets back and it now runs OK.
Brian
Brian
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Just came back from a short ride. Is still pretty chilly here and roads are wet with salt/gravel so not ideal. Anyway, bike ran good. I opened it up a few times and t had a nice surge of power. :rocks:
Really no different than the previous copper manifold or the grab rail unit. Probably the same as PVC. Seems like you can connect the Weber to the engine with any kind of piping...copper, PVC, EMT , whatever you have laying around. As long as it has no leaks it will work.
I haven't tried a PVC but KVL has done a fine job with that. To me it looks like PVC is probably the cheapest, easiest good running manifold that I've seen so far. :good:
The copper pipe and fittings are pretty cheap. The big item for mine was the brass for the flanges. The foot long piece of 3" x 1/4" cost me $46 :shock: and according to model train builder friend of mine that is not unreasonable. Cutting the holes in the 2" end cap is tricky too.
Brian
Really no different than the previous copper manifold or the grab rail unit. Probably the same as PVC. Seems like you can connect the Weber to the engine with any kind of piping...copper, PVC, EMT , whatever you have laying around. As long as it has no leaks it will work.
I haven't tried a PVC but KVL has done a fine job with that. To me it looks like PVC is probably the cheapest, easiest good running manifold that I've seen so far. :good:
The copper pipe and fittings are pretty cheap. The big item for mine was the brass for the flanges. The foot long piece of 3" x 1/4" cost me $46 :shock: and according to model train builder friend of mine that is not unreasonable. Cutting the holes in the 2" end cap is tricky too.
Brian
slabghost
Well-known member
When you have a little more riding weather maybe Joe can help you finish dialing in that carb. That is one beautiful intake. I'd polish that bugger up and I hate polishing anything.
OP
OP
Thanks Slabghost. I hope those nice shiny runners aren't too much of a distraction when I'm riding. :music:
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:smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=137241#p137241:1em9eofq said:canuckxxxx » Thu Dec 11, 2014 2:44 pm[/url]":1em9eofq]
Thanks Slabghost. I hope those nice shiny runners aren't too much of a distraction when I'm riding. :music:
They do look good :good: :salute:
hmmmmm well all power extractions is in the carb ....all the yrs of blab about manifolds as the key to success and not the carb as it was good out of the box ...was certainly just way off track ...as brian said once the manifold set up and dosnt leak it going to work ....it has no moving parts ....i also believe there is upper most performance in size ...everything in fuel delivery is like jetting is to a carb ...just like modding the carb to the oldwing motor is a form of jetting ....
OP
OP
Just thinking about the one issue I have; that is the engine dies when rolling to a stop, unless it is completely warned up. When I think back, this started happening when I added the 2 to 1 adapter to my grab bar manifold and continues with this copper manifold. :head bang:
I think that the reason might be that, although I am still heating the manifold, the carb is not getting any heat. With my grab bar manifold, and before I added the adapter my heating would get the manifold quite warn and that would even include the base of the carb. At that time it would return to idle no problem. I think the DFT carb, on a Ford Escort, as it was intended, has a heated manifold which also heats the carb. Maybe heating the carb is more important than heating the manifold. :headscratch: with the addition of the adapter the carb does not get much heating if any.
To test this I will try and make a heating plate that will go between the carb and adapter. I need to get a piece of 1/2" al and drill passages along the sides and ends. At the end of each passage I will thread it for 1/8" NPT so I can put plugs and barbed fittings to creat a flow path through the plate. :builder:
Brian
I think that the reason might be that, although I am still heating the manifold, the carb is not getting any heat. With my grab bar manifold, and before I added the adapter my heating would get the manifold quite warn and that would even include the base of the carb. At that time it would return to idle no problem. I think the DFT carb, on a Ford Escort, as it was intended, has a heated manifold which also heats the carb. Maybe heating the carb is more important than heating the manifold. :headscratch: with the addition of the adapter the carb does not get much heating if any.
To test this I will try and make a heating plate that will go between the carb and adapter. I need to get a piece of 1/2" al and drill passages along the sides and ends. At the end of each passage I will thread it for 1/8" NPT so I can put plugs and barbed fittings to creat a flow path through the plate. :builder:
Brian
i think your carb is loading up brian ...in my opinion from the mismatched idle circuit ...i dont think it has anything to do with the heat
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Agreed.[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=137298#p137298:1i9zmkyr said:
Mine was doing the same thing until I added a small hole in the primary throttle plate, though adding heat prior to this did help some.
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Joe, you may be right, this is just a theory at this point. What do you mean "mismatched idle circuit"?[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=137298#p137298:3o71m4g5 said:
Brian
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Sorry Dan, yours came in just as I was answering Joe. What size hole did you drill?
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I drilled about an 1/8" hole but plan to go larger.
Before I do this I'm going to check some other things on this carb since keep in mind it was bought as a rebuilt not new.
I may decide to find the bucks for a Langdon carb instead. I'll decide that after I pull it.
Before I do this I'm going to check some other things on this carb since keep in mind it was bought as a rebuilt not new.
I may decide to find the bucks for a Langdon carb instead. I'll decide that after I pull it.
brian do some reading on the thread ive been working on the last few days ..there pics up now ...
OP
OP
Very nice day here in Calgary, 8C today but is supposed to go down to 1 tomorrow with snow so I figured I better go for a ride. Went for a 60 mile ride out west to Cochrane and back. Mostly 50 to 60 mph on secondary paved roads. Here s a shot of the bike with the Rocky Mountains in the background. :Egyptian:
The bike ran fine. I put some ATF in the gas before the ride so it should be distributed throughout the fuel system now. BTW, those copper runners are a handy place to warm your hands. :heat:
Brian
The bike ran fine. I put some ATF in the gas before the ride so it should be distributed throughout the fuel system now. BTW, those copper runners are a handy place to warm your hands. :heat:
Brian
slabghost
Well-known member
Nice picture. Congrats on the nice ride this late in the year!
nice pic brian ...of bike and the scenery ....hand warmer ...manifold seems to have all the features ....
OP
OP
Did some experimenting today with the vacuum advance on my GW. I tested it when I first got the bike running a couple of years ago and it wouldn't hold a vacuum so I just plugged the vacuum port on the OE carb rack and then the Weber when I went to single carb. But I tried it again a few days ago and it will hold a vacuum for a few seconds and I figured the single carb manifold might give more vacuum than the OE rack so maybe it would do something. :headscratch:
So I put a vacuum gauge on the Weber and I put my vacuum hand pump on the vacuum advance and started the bike. As far as engine vacuum goes; it shows no/very low vacuum at idle but as soon as the throttle is cracked open it jumps 5 inch of mercury and continues up to 15 to 20" as the throttle opens. So I knew I had the right port on the Weber and I know I had a strong vacuum.
As far as the vacuum advance unit goes; with the engine idling I pumped the vacuum up with the hand pump and the engine sped up a bit, maybe 300 RPM, so I knew it was working. Would a non-leaking VA make a bigger difference to RPMs?
So I connected the vacuum advance to the Weber port with some rubber hose. Might be my imagination but the throttle response seems to be a little crisper now. :music2:
Brian
So I put a vacuum gauge on the Weber and I put my vacuum hand pump on the vacuum advance and started the bike. As far as engine vacuum goes; it shows no/very low vacuum at idle but as soon as the throttle is cracked open it jumps 5 inch of mercury and continues up to 15 to 20" as the throttle opens. So I knew I had the right port on the Weber and I know I had a strong vacuum.
As far as the vacuum advance unit goes; with the engine idling I pumped the vacuum up with the hand pump and the engine sped up a bit, maybe 300 RPM, so I knew it was working. Would a non-leaking VA make a bigger difference to RPMs?
So I connected the vacuum advance to the Weber port with some rubber hose. Might be my imagination but the throttle response seems to be a little crisper now. :music2:
Brian
