Carb Fustration ... Wondering what to do

[mespock]

OK .. This spring I put on the road a 1978 Naked Wing. Was running great up until about 2 weeks ago, when I discovered my carbs are leaking.

I found what seems to be the leak and now it's a matter or pulling the carbs and hoping that it's just a seal. Now it could have been leaking earlier but it wasn't until 2 weeks ago that I noticed it. The leak seems to becoming off of Carb #1 maybe by the bowl but it seems higher. After a bit there another leak starts at Carb #3 so the right side carbs. Left side or Carbs #2 and #4 don't seem to be leaking. I did have some issues and I replaced the air cut off valve in late June. My question is .. are there any typical leak areas of the 1000 carbs? Also I did have the carbs off in spring and I did clean them all nicely. The seals seemed good with not apparent cracks or wear. I did replace the caps.

My thoughts .... and where I feel I need some advice or suggestions .... It will cost $80 to $100 maybe more to rebuild the carbs with carb kits. What I don't want is to go through all the hassle of rebuilding the carbs only to find I didn't succeed. Next should I purchase a set of 1100 carbs as I heard they are a better carb than the 1000 carbs and go from there.

I'm frustrated as the bike was running so well this summer and I just loved how she handled. Was a lot of fun.

Let me hear your thoughts. I'm not going to be doing much until later this fall or winter.

 

[Steve83]

You need to determine where the leaks are. If they're coming from between the carb and plenum, an o-ring seal is leaking or the mounting screws are loose. If it's leaking from the bowl, the bowl gasket is bad or the screws are loose. A worn or dirty needle & seat valve would cause the carb to load up, making the bike run rich. Check your spark plugs.

If you have any junk in the fuel line, carbs 3 & 1 are the first to get it. I'd pull 'em, clean 'em, and carefully inspect the O-rings and needle & seat valves. You might want to flush out the tank, lines, and fuel pump, and replace the fuel filter. Some have added a second filter between the pump and carbs, just in case.

The 1000 carbs don't have all the external plumbing of the 1100's, so are somewhat simpler. There's also only one cut-off valve on the 1000 set, compared to four on the 1100 set. If you use an 1100 set, be sure to plug the vacuum port on #3 carb, as the 1000 engine has no vacuum advance.

 

[joedrum]

there the single carb option too

 

[ekvh]

As above. Most often float valves but can be others. First, make sure it's not just a bowl seal. Next turn gas off at petcock. Remove air cleaner cover and look at plenum floor. Is it wet? If yes, dry it off, place a piece of paper cut to fit in the plenum floor. Turn fuel on and watch carefully where it gets wet. If it's in the center, it's your plenum seal. If it comes from the sides it could be a float valve or the O-ring where the carb mounts to the plenum around the fuel rail. To see which, turn off fuel, dry it off, remove slide caps so you can see in the carb throat. Watch and see where it comes from. Must have good light. If it's up from the jet tubes, it's a float valve, but if it comes from the plenum side down the throat, it's the O-ring connecting the carb to plenum. Aftermarket float valves are junk. Save yourself headaches and rig a 2 liter bottle of fuel and test it before reinstalling on the bike.

 

[slabghost]

Try running it with ATF in the fuel and turn off the fuel a minute or two before shut down. It might just clear the debris holding the needles open. Not certain that's the problem but it often is.

 

[Ansimp]

slabghost » Mon Sep 01, 2014 5:02 am[/url]":1lp6ail2]
Try running it with ATF in the fuel and turn off the fuel a minute or two before shut down. It might just clear the debris holding the needles open. Not certain that's the problem but it often is.

+1 . I also noticed if you have less than half a tank of fuel helps when parked. The fuel tank may not be venting properly and that can cause extra pressure and fuel to leak past the needle and seats. If you have been doing these things then follow Steve's advice and pull the carbs, he is currently running a second hand 1000 set on his rebuilt 83 :good:

 

[mespock]

Thanks for the input ... I'll take a look at the carbs again shortly. Need to get a bottle of AFT any you recommend?

 

[bronko37]

My two cents is no matter how well you think you have cleaned the carbs it is never a good idea to use old rings and gaskets. Purchase a rebuild kit from randakk and do it right or seek out a single carb replacement. You will find advocates for both options in this site with plenty of helpful folks. Remember, the rings and gaskets you have now are nearly 40years old. Randakks materials are superior to anything else you will find on the market. Spend the cash and rebuild them right. Worth every penny. I did mine and i couldn't be happier.

 

[slabghost]

mespock » Mon Sep 01, 2014 2:51 pm[/url]":39a0juof]
Thanks for the input ... I'll take a look at the carbs again shortly. Need to get a bottle of AFT any you recommend?

ATF automagic transmission fluid. Any brand and type will do. They all have lots of cleaners in a light oil. I have been using Peak brand simply because it's least expensive here.

 

[83gl1200]

I was in the same boat and people told me to rebuild my carbs with nothing less than a randakk kit. After finding out that was $300 I decided to put on a PVC manifold and vw carb which was a lot cheaper than rebuilding those carbs, then sold my OEM carb rack and came out getting more $ for my old carbs than the diy cheap used single conversion cost me.
In the future I plan to upgrade to a weber single carb for more top end, but this will do for now. I'm happy not having to deal with 4 carbs again or syncing and tuning them. Also happy that when I need to rebuild one of the singles a full rebuild kit only costs $30 or less and will be much much easier.

 

[dan filipi]

83gl1200 » Wed Sep 10, 2014 1:06 pm[/url]":37ugdwps]
I was in the same boat and people told me to rebuild my carbs with nothing less than a randakk kit. After finding out that was $300 I decided to put on a PVC manifold and vw carb which was a lot cheaper than rebuilding those carbs, then sold my OEM carb rack and came out getting more $ for my old carbs than the diy cheap used single conversion cost me.
In the future I plan to upgrade to a weber single carb for more top end, but this will do for now. I'm happy not having to deal with 4 carbs again or syncing and tuning them. Also happy that when I need to rebuild one of the singles a full rebuild kit only costs $30 or less and will be much much easier.

Oh I am soooooo with you on that 83gl1200!
I love the simplicity of the single even though it has taken me a long time and a lot of work to get where I'm at now.
Much of which was defining better what actually needs to be done to make a single work good like we have here on the forum with everyone's input.
After learning more the little problems of the 4 carbs that all add up to headaches getting them running right then keeping them that way, I'll never go back to a stock rack unless I wanted to restore a bike back to original.

 

[mespock]

Well I have all winter to solve this problem. I'm on the fence with the single carb. I'd need to really see one that works. I like the idea but is it beyond my ability. I am not afraid to turn a wrench but I did put a set of GSXR carbs on my 750K to solve my leaking problem. But that only consisted of cutting some radiator hose and installing a dynojet kit while finding the right main jet. This seems more complicated.

dan filipi » Wed Sep 10, 2014 4:20 pm[/url]":3mokeyif]

83gl1200 » Wed Sep 10, 2014 1:06 pm[/url]":3mokeyif]
I was in the same boat and people told me to rebuild my carbs with nothing less than a randakk kit. After finding out that was $300 I decided to put on a PVC manifold and vw carb which was a lot cheaper than rebuilding those carbs, then sold my OEM carb rack and came out getting more $ for my old carbs than the diy cheap used single conversion cost me.
In the future I plan to upgrade to a weber single carb for more top end, but this will do for now. I'm happy not having to deal with 4 carbs again or syncing and tuning them. Also happy that when I need to rebuild one of the singles a full rebuild kit only costs $30 or less and will be much much easier.

Oh I am soooooo with you on that 83gl1200!
I love the simplicity of the single even though it has taken me a long time and a lot of work to get where I'm at now.
Much of which was defining better what actually needs to be done to make a single work good like we have here on the forum with everyone's input.
After learning more the little problems of the 4 carbs that all add up to headaches getting them running right then keeping them that way, I'll never go back to a stock rack unless I wanted to restore a bike back to original.

 

[slabghost]

Plenty of singles here that work. Plenty of threads documenting what was done . What worked and what didn't. Whichever way you go there's plenty here willing to help and advise you.

 

[dan filipi]

Rebuilding the stock rack, actually it should be called 're-sealing' because none of the hard parts are replaced, isn't all that hard. The trick is to be organized with a clean work space and making absolutely sure to get the jets completely clean.
Once that's done then dressing the sliders and bores and careful float adjustments and synchronize.

 

[tom foreman]

ya,a plus on the single carb.is your,bike is naked.and looks,great.on naked wings.good luck.. :builder: :music:

 

[mespock]

So what is the best and or easiest single carb set up?

 

[83gl1200]

Vw 34 Pict 3 is the easiest. Make or buy a manifold, bolt it and air cleaner on, two screws adjust it but it'll run stock out of the box. No rejet needed.

I made a PVC manifold copied from dkl because it was cheap and easy and didn't need special tools or drilling and tapping parts.

Hook up throttle cable.

Hook up power and ground.

Plug vaccuum ports on carb.

Conversion was easier than removing, cleaning, and reinstalling OEM carbs. I just copied exactly what others already showed how to do and didn't have any real experience with mechanics before doing it. In fact I dove into a full restore on a gl1100 not knowing jack, but if you can follow others dictions in their threads and tutorials then non problem. If you get stuck people help for free, what more could you ask for...

 

[mespock]

Now was this for a 1200 or 1000?

 

[83gl1200]

mespock » Thu Sep 11, 2014 2:41 pm[/url]":1lbxasps]
Now was this for a 1200 or 1000?

Mine is a 1200 engine with 1100 heads in an 1100 frame with 1100 intakes, but others have done the same on all versions now. 1000 and 1100 are the same manifold setup, 1200 intakes are a little different so manifold is different, just longer and angled a bit different, but all is still basically the same.

 

[joedrum]

hmmmmm there are many here who have the dft 32-32 carb setup and type 4 vw manifold set up ...i have this set up on hooch but with a slightly bigger carb ...it is a monster of power ....this carb works like a four barrel muscle car of the 60s... id say it has the best potencial of power

there is also vw single barrel set ups ... i have some experience with them but not much ... the little i do have seemed like they will work good too as the one i set up on a 1100 fire up instantly ...after cranking away first with gas valve off and then again with kill switch on ...LOL just a wee bit to much beer in the mix.......

one thing for sure is it works good if one stays with it ..to get it right ... much better than stock carbs period in my book ....but others think differently .....personally ive never been on a oldwing that is as fast as mine is ...dkl has a thread here on a quite cheap and doable pvc manifold ...thats quite well thought out ...as the dft is too ...time to read some threads ... others will chime in i am sure...LOL there also faster typers :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: