CLUTCH ADJUSMENT ON AN 1100

[rolson7560]

Does anyone out there have experience in adjusting the clutch on an 1100? I looked in the tech manual, and it says to pull the cover off, loosen the lock nut, turn the screw until you feel resistance, then tighten lock nut and reassemble. I looked and it seems like it would be VERY difficult just to get the cover off, with the engine still in the bike. Even if you did get the cover off, how the heck do you see what you're doing in there? I'm at the very end of my cable adjustment and afraid I need to do this process. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

THANKS!!!

 

[joedrum]

ive never had a clutch problem and have never done it ....so your at the end of all adjustment ...im not sure but i think it is engine out to do clutch work :mrgreen:

 

[dan filipi]

Pulling the cover is how clutch adjustment is done.

Clutch plates can be replaced with the engine in.

 

[joedrum]

thats good to know.... :mrgreen:

 

[rolson7560]

Any idea how long the clutch plates should last? There's 67,000 miles on the old girl, but I can't believe they need to be replaced already.....

 

[dan filipi]

Any idea how long the clutch plates should last? There's 67,000 miles on the old girl, but I can't believe they need to be replaced already.....

It depends how the clutch has been treated.
They can last 100k miles and more or just a couple hundred miles.

Just like with an auto if it's slipped a lot it won't last long.

 

[Jcol]

You don't have to remove the clutch cover to make that. adjustment. You remove a small access cap which is located in the center of the clutch plate cover with a box end wrench. This exposes the lock nut and screw. you can't see them because you can't look directly at the hole, but you can slip a small socket on the nut and loosen fairly easily. You then have to get a small screw driver on there and back off the screw. My manual said to turn the screw clockwise till resistance is felt and then back it off half a turn. After you. have set the screw tighten the lock nut. It's not as bad as it sounds. I did this to mine and it set up the way the. clutch engages so it was better but it did not do much with my cable length. For that
there is some adjustment possible at the engine
end of the cable.

 

[dan filipi]

Oh I meant remove the cap not the cover

 

[rolson7560]

This is GREAT!!!! I'll look for that cap, (access hole). I've adjusted the cable at both ends and I believe I'm out of adjustemnt there. I
I've only had this bike for a couple months, and only put a thousand miles on it. The p.o is a 79 year old guy, so it's hard to tell how he rode it.

Before I adjust thru the access hole, I still need to "back off" on both ends of the cable, right?

Thanks again for all the help! I'll update when I'm done with it.

 

[mike in idaho]

Back off the cable adjuster(s) before you adjust the center bolt. To get the best mechanical advantage, for the lightest pull at the clutch lever, the end of the cable and the release arm should be at a 90 degree angle when the clutch lever is pulled back to the handlebar.

 

[Tory]

You did not say what year your 1100 is.
If it is an 83,there is no access cap to remove and the only adjusment you have is with the cable.
It may be possible to gain with a new cable,at least it is a quick try.I dont know if cables strecth or not.

 

[joedrum]

i didnt know that ...83 has no access and other yrs 1100 do :shock: :mrgreen:

 

[rolson7560]

It's an 83...SHOOT!!!

 

[WindNWing]

It may be possible to gain with a new cable,at least it is a quick try.I dont know if cables strecth or not.

Years ago I had a clutch cable that seemed to always need adjustment and it eventually broke. The individual strands had been breaking allowing the cable to stretch. I believe my first try would be to replace the cable. good luck :yes:

 

[rolson7560]

Looks like I'm trying a new clutch cable. I sure hope the works.

 

[mike in idaho]

My '82 has the late style clutch release lever, do you suppose they made a change in the middle of the year?

 

[joedrum]

i bet it is for 82 too along with 83

 

[rolson7560]

OKAY. Now I'm thinking that there is another issue aside from adjustment. I just rode about 30 miles and there were time that I was good at the stop sign, other times the bike wanted to "creep" forward and I had way too much play on the hand lever. A while back I had run regular oil, (before I knew I shouldn't). Once I found out I replaced it with HONDA GD 10-40. It made a huge difference in shifting, but I'm wondering now if the plates are still a little gummed up and sticking. I'm going to change the oilagain this weekend. My question....would it hurt to run a couple ounces of Sea Foam in the oil and drive it a hundred miles or so???

 

[dan filipi]

I would drain out a 1/2 qt. and add a 1/2 qt of atf and ride it easy for a couple hundred miles then drain and replace with 15/40.

 

[slabghost]

No the seafoam won't hurt it and ATF works good too. That car "enhanced lubricity" oil sucks in bikes.