Coolant replacement

[pasvorto]

My 81 has 24,000 miles on it. I think it is probably running the original coolant. This weekend will provide some time to change it out.

Last week I checked the overflow tank (bike was warm). It was empty. I added coolant until it reached the 'full' line. Over the next week, every time I stopped, I noticed a line of drips following me and a small puddle where I stopped. Finally, it has stopped doing that. However, the overflow tank is empty again. My first thought was a leak somewhere. However, the drips are coming out of the tube from the overflow tank that goes out below the bike in front of the rear wheel. Is this leaking normal for these bikes?

Are there any "gotchas" involved with changing the coolant?

 

[joedrum]

sounds like maybe new cap and hoses might fix everything.....there probably older than the coolant :mrgreen:

 

[dan filipi]

I would start with a new cap also and if the thermostat has never been replaced put a new one in.
It's possible if the cap is letting the pressure out the tank is being filled, over flowing, then as the system cools all the coolant gets drawn back in but since some was lost the tank gets emptied and comes up short.

 

[pasvorto]

I would think a blown head gasket would cause some white smoke. I don't see anything out of the ordinary.

 

[dan filipi]

I would think a blown head gasket would cause some white smoke. I don't see anything out of the ordinary.

LOL, I rethought about it and changed my post. You were too quick for me. :smilie_happy:

 

[pasvorto]

Well, I did go to Reseda HS for one week, in 1966.

 

[Tory]

I would think a blown head gasket would cause some white smoke. I don't see anything out of the ordinary.

Not nessesarily.I did not have any smoke with mine.It wasnt blowing coolant into the cylinder,it was pushing gasses into the coolant system.But I wasnt loosing coolant from the overflow I was pushing coolant into it and over flowing it slowly.

 

[scdmarx]

I think replacing the cap would be the cheapest and easiest thing to do first. The system has to hold pressure or you will lose coolant, (sometimes only in the form of steam). Then if there's not enough coolant in the recovery bottle, the system will draw air back in. That air pocket will contribute to pushing more coolant out during the next hot-cold cycle.
I got my cap at NAPA. # 703-2445 (13lbs)

If you don't know that the coolant has ever been changed, then you probably should consider changing it. If you go that far, it wouldn't hurt to change the hoses.
NAPA# 7733 (1piece/cut to fit top & bottom) Do yourself a favor and use new clamps.

I believe routinely replacing coolant is much easier on corrosion of metal parts and gaskets/orings, etc. So, if for no other reason than just to start a maintenence schedule.

 

[pasvorto]

I will swing by NAPA after work and see if they have those. Thanks for the numbers.

 

[pasvorto]

Parts ordered. They should be in tomorrow. It looks like I have a project this weekend

 

[pasvorto]

OK. Obviously I'm an idiot. I went to the garage this morning for this quick little project. I had a new cap and new hose in hand. No thermostat available locally. I grabbed my Haynes manual and started in on it. :read:

1. "Remove fill tank and tip it over to drain it." BS! There ain't no way that tank is coming out! But, it's empty anyway, so on to the next step. :headscratch:

2. Before I decide to drain the radiator, I look around for the radiator cap. Are you f#$%ing kidding me? I can't find it. Finally, I take the tool kit out and remove the air cleaner cover and air cleaner. There it is! Buried as deeply as it can be. I try all of my funnels. There is no way I am going to be able to put any fluid in it through the radiator cap. Hell, I'm not sure I can get to the cap to remove it! :head bang:

So the question presents itself. Do I have to completely remove the false gas tank in order to get to the radiator cap?! I feel like sending a nasty letter to the Haynes folks and tell them that their service manual is way off base. :rtfm:

The local harley dealer is having a showing of the 2011 models today. maybe I need a little distraction. :sensored:

 

[dan filipi]

To get to the cap the seat has to come off then the false tank.

 

[pasvorto]

If I remember correctly, there are only 3 bolts holding the false tank on?

 

[scdmarx]

I can relate. I know how ya feel. But it ain't that hard, it just sounds like more work than it is. Your first time removing that cover will take abut 10 minutes. There are two bolts holding the seat. One on each side. Remove the seat to get the two bolts at the rear of the cover. Then there are three screws that hold the fairing lowers on each side. With the lowers removed, you can now access the two bolts (one on each side) on the front of the cover. The cover is a snug fit, so rock it back and forth while lifting it off. I used a long transmission funnel to pour coolant into the radiator.

Once I realized this bike is not a repair for profit, but more of a restoration project of a classic that will have very desireable bennifits when completed, my whole attitude changed. Slow down and try to enjoy becoming intimate with this motorcycle. You won't be sorry.

 

[dan filipi]

Once I realized this bike is not a repair for profit, but more of a restoration project of a classic that will have very desireable bennifits when completed, my whole attitude changed. Slow down and try to enjoy becoming intimate with this motorcycle. You won't be sorry.

Well stated sc :salute:

 

[pasvorto]

Well, I got it done. The hoses looked good. The thermostat looked new. I put on a new cap. The fluid looked like new. I wonder how old it was. I was expecting about 3 quarts to come out. There was maybe two. That's all that went back in as well. I let it run for a while until I wasn't seeing more air bubbles. I took it for a short ride. It ran hotter than normal. It wasn't in the red but it was getting close. I hot home and put more coolant in the overflow. I will see if it sucks it in.

 

[dan filipi]

It seems to be running too hot.

When the cooling system is operating correctly your temp out on the highway should run consistently around 1/4 gauge.
That will rise if your pulling a hill or air temps are over 90 degrees.
In stop and go around town the gauge will climb to over 3/4 gauge when the fan should come on.
How fast it gets there is directly related to your speed, how long your stopped, and how high the air temp is.

When you first fill the radiator, even though all the air bubbles seem to be out it will suck more coolant in as it cools until the radiator is full.
Normal cycling of the coolant will fill the reservoir about an inch, maybe a little more as the engine warms up then as it cools that coolant sucks back in. These 2 levels stay very constant if the system is in good operation.

I would let yours cool for 4-5 hours then fill the reservoir to full. Run it to cycle the fan a couple times, note how much the level went up and put a pencil line at the warm and cold levels on the reservoir. My experience with these bikes is if that level seems to be changing then there is something else wrong.

 

[pasvorto]

My trip was only about 5 miles. The temps are in the 60s. I will go out in a bit and see if it sucked the coolant back in. If not, then what?

The gauge went to just a bit below red. It went there fairly quickly, considering it NEVER went past vertical before the change.

Oh well, it will eventually level out. It never did hit red, so it is not overheating.

 

[joedrum]

it will take a few clycle cause the thermostat that delays things....if the fluid level is changing in the resavore it getting there....

 

[mcgovern61]

I think you have an air bubble. You might have to open the cap and top it off while running to get rid of it.