Copperwing wants a single carb so... copper manifold

[Bug]

After a quick ebay search, it looks like the 75-76 gl1000's had the feature like mine :

Gl1000 75-76 water pump cover

• Bug
• Aug 28, 2015

And the later ones had a rounded feature:

Gl1000 77+ water pump cover

• Bug
• Aug 28, 2015

I'm guessing the newer ones could be tapped as well, with a little more effort.

 

[Bug]

Arg...
I still haven't seen my replacement coil, so I sent them another email. For some reason, it was never shipped... :rant: They are going to send it overnight in the morning, so I should have it Thursday. I'll ride again Thursday night! :yes:

 

[julimike54]

Bummer on the part, keep after em

 

[Bug]

My wife just sent me this pic of my boy:

Coil's here!

• Bug
• Sep 3, 2015

She asked if I wanted to come home for a long lunch. .. duh! :BigGrin:

We'll see if I can ride it back to work!

 

[canuckxxxx]

On the hanging idle issue: I wonder if it might be to do with the non-straight angle that the throttle cable goes to the carb, as Aapple pointed out in post #37. Have you tried reaching down and trying to turn the throttle at the carb when it is idling too high.

Brian

 

[joedrum]

great pic .....the boy looks like he knows what dad wants.....hope things work out great ....id say its rich some ..from the look of the plug post ......but not real bad at all ...you may find it compounds some like getting richer looking as plugs fail a bit the more it runs .....but your getting close id say .....id clean all the plugs up and go for a average run first ...then after it cools pull plugs and check them ....post pic of plugs again .....and how the carb is set up ....nice work bug ....

it may just be me and my build ...witch is quite different and carb is really modded ...but it hates heat ...and when it gets to hot like when i have lowers on it will loose idle and run faster ...like about 2000 rpm at idle ......with lowers off it idles and run fine and the runners witch are stainless steel are cool to the touch ....the runners are insulated from the heat of the heads also with aggressiive gaskets made of wood .......not suggesting anything just giving info to ponder .....great work bug

 

[Bug]

I need to keep this updated!

While I was waiting for the coil, I connected the switches to my ignition as a sort of combo-lock. These controlled 2 bosh type relays that powered everything, so there wasn't much load on the switches. I added the fans (0.7 amps) and the anti-dieseling solenoid (? amps) to the circuit. I didn't think that was much of a load, but it was apparently enough to melt the switches and it left me on the side of the road until I figured it out and hot-wired it.

Canuckxxxx, I did fix that in post #41 and it will idle down if I turn the adjustment screw out, but then it won't idle well at normal temperatures. It seems to have the same issue as Joedrum, with the idle rising with the temperature. Hopefully cleaning my radiator will fix that. I need another hot day in traffic to see if it's really fixed, but it's definitely doing better.

Wood gaskets Jodrum? That's something new to me! I've been thinking of using something different for sealing the manifold to the heads. I don't have much faith in my O-rings lining up properly and was considering cutting out some sheet gaskets.

 

[joedrum]

well unlike what most say. That you need heat ...i didnt go that way ... I went the opposite ..in my past ive made some really fast cars ...almost all had wood between manifold and carb ...it made me lots on money in bets .......on the wing i got them at the head too ...to me its great gasket material ...the average grade cdx type plywood is the best ...as it squeezes well ...elmers wood glue seal edges great and is gas resistant also .....i used cheerios box gasket top and bottom too glued with elmers as facing cover been on and off manys times and never has failed to seal ....it useally easy to beat the system pushed out there for gaskets ......this was all to keep heat from charge not add it like most do ..and is pushed ......dialing in carb has to good and if it is big power in cool charge is my opinion

 

[Dusterdude]

Wood is a very good insulator,wood makes a great spacer

 

[Bug]

Wow, October... slow progress...

I've been doing some work trying to improve a bit. I've pulled the elbows off of the runners so I can add proper clamps like Canukxxxx did.

I taped some 100 grit paper to a piece of aluminum plate and started on the top of my manifold. I didn't know I was this far off...

Flat sanding plate

• Bug
• Jan 3, 2016

First sanding

• Bug
• Jan 3, 2016

So after 7 sheets of 100 grit worn down like the picture above, she looked like this: :builder:

Out of sandpaper

• Bug
• Jan 3, 2016

I then worked through 500, 1000, and 1200 grit before taking it over to the buffer.

Polished

• Bug
• Jan 3, 2016

And I've cleaned up the first spacer:

And first spacer polished

• Bug
• Jan 3, 2016

So one more spacer to go, and I'm drilling out the brackets tomorrow after work. I picked up some gasket material and I'll cut out gaskets for the joints to the head and the carburetor stack. I shouldn't have any more air leaks now.

 

[slabghost]

Welcome back bug! If that manifold is to be bolted directly to the heads not using the stock horns. I suggest you oversize the bolt holes a bit and use a plyable material as gasket. Once warmed these motors are a little wider than they are cold. Don't want the expansion pulling your manifold apart.

 

[joedrum]

looks nice .....keep at it ...

 

[Bug]

Here is a quick sketch of how I intend to attach the manifold to the heads.

Head connection sketch

• Bug
• Jan 4, 2016

Should I put another piece of gasket material between the flange and the top clamp to allow for more movement?

 

[slabghost]

Whatever you can do to assure a positive seal will be of benefit. I just want you aware that the motor will expand width wise. So some allowance must be made to the manifold for that

 

[dan filipi]

Your sketch is how I did mine but I have rubber boots at the plenum to allow for movement.

 

[Bug]

I think I might cut 1/2in out of my runners and bridge them with hose. I've definitely noticed that it's much more difficult to line up the manifold when it's freezing cold versus the heat of summer. The extra flexibility would be nice.

I was only able to get the holes drilled/cut out with the mini-mill at/after work today. They look a lot better than the ones I cut out with the cordless drill.

One step closer

• Bug
• Jan 4, 2016

So cut them apart and shape them tomorrow!

 

[Bug]

Tomorrow? Ha, who was I trying to kid?
Well, the next day I did cut them apart and got one shaped.

I got a fair bit of work done. I cut the runners and found some 1in vinyl tubing to bridge the gap. I'm not expecting it to last against the fuel but I like the clear.

I pulled the doughnuts off of the runners and flipped them over so the o-ring groove is up and the flats are down. Then sanded them on the plate for another flat seal. I've also flat sanded the second spacer and polished the runners.

Shiny runners

• Bug
• Jan 16, 2016

I found this Fuel resistant sealant and used it with a sheet of gasket material to rebuild and seal up my carb/plenum stack.

Fuel resistant sealer

• Bug
• Jan 16, 2016

The 1/4-20 all-thread I used stripped the threads in the copper plate so I stepped it up to 5/16-18 in the first spacer and used separate flat head bolts, countersunk into the spacer, to secure it to the plenum. Sandwiched it all with the gaskets and sealant and tightened it up.

Rebuilt stack

• Bug
• Jan 16, 2016

The sealant will clean up with acetone and it'll be nice and shiny.

 

[ekvh]

Looks cool.

 

[slabghost]

Very nice! The clear vinyl tubing should last pretty well.

 

[dan filipi]

Nice, you're getting there. Looking good!