Could I get some help locating some carbs stuff?

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krakum1967

krakum1967

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Hey guys with the recent events, can you guys tell me where I can get a stovebolt carb? I have to go get the bike moved and start the prep work tonight, and I have to go over to my friends early tomorrow to get going on the block swap. Where can I get the Stovebolt carb? And would any of you know where I might find a 2 barrel to 34 mm manifold adaptor? I thought I saw one on vw-resources, but I was wondering if someone might have some links handy as I do not have a great amount of time to be on here, and I want to get that stuff ordered so I can still sell that EMPI carb to this VW owner that wants it. Before the motor popped, I could not quite get it dialed in, it either ran to rich or too lean, and it just would not dial in. Every time I thought it was it would just fall apart after ten or fifteen miles. Not that I did not believe you, but at the time I had no resources and had to try to get it to work. They ARE CRAP!!!!

Could someone help me find some links so I can just peak in while I am working and get that stuff ordered? I would greatly appreciate the help.

Oh my sons welding shop owning father in law to be say he can tack a coolant line on to the bottom of the manifold so I can pipe in heat. Is this possible on the GL1000, and how? And if someone might have some ideas on how to do this, I agree with everyone here on getting heat on the manifold, I just dont know enough about this motor to think of best how to do it? But I have the resources to mod the manifold, but would greatly appreciate some assistnace on this. I just have no time to research or read for great lengths of time right right now? I am shooting to make the suicide prevention run on August 20th so the wife can ride it too on her Hyosung/UM. ANy help or expert advice is greatly apprecviated if you can provide it?
 
Okay second question on this, the adapter they make, is it steel or aluminum (aluminium, I love the british version...lol). Please be steel please be steel. I emailed him, but wondered if somewhere here might have an answer cause I just now got home, and am hoping its steel so I can get it coming.

If it is not, what vehicles used the stove bolt or a carter one barrel that I might be able to get a manifold from and do some hacking.

The kids future pops in law, said he is goiong to get me going on learning to weld, and cut me a break on the price in exchange for tuning his classic 100 cc Honda he uses to put around town on.

Let me know if you have the answer, it would be highly appreciated.
 
Yea, over thought that one. I will be ordering that carb, adaptor and filter today. I have to order a radiator too or have mine repaired, it apparently took a "shrapnel" hit when the last block failed, so more to do, dont care, at least I am back in the game and have something to work on again.

Oh, I am plotting on a heat source for improved atomization. As I discovered the manifold that I purchased is steel, I can hang my LED magnetic shop light on it. My ex-plumber wife reminded me that it is possible to solder copper to steel. I know where I can get an oil cooler for a Yami XS850 (just the radiator) and I am going to scrounge up an oil color adaptor for the oil filter. The GL1000 shares a common filter with several other hondas, so my thought is I should be able to use the adaptor for a CB750 ( I think its the same, but I know of other, this is just a hypthetical scenario).

I am laying out a system to pipe the hot oil through the adaptor out of its LOW pressure tubing, and run hot oil into the radiator that I can solder (or even hose clamp) to the bottom of my square mock plenum. The thin multiple fins will provide a slow moving heat source that should be warmer than the water source to provide a little higher heat to deal with the thick steel of my plenum. I am also plotting to use Stainless steel grab bars as runners and see if the can be welded to the plenum. I want to eliminate as many vacuum leak potential areas as possible and maybe even be able to transfer heat to the plenum via engine heat directly through the runners. But my thought is that the copper oil cooler radiator soldered to the bottom of the plate should provide a great source of heat to improve atomization.

Last final note, in my final adjustments on the EMPI type 1 Pic 34 carb is that it ran grat on the shop, through warm up, and on short test runs of 2 to 5 miles. In my long distance runs, the flow would fall apart, and it would begin to stumble, get cold, and I think icing was occuring across long distances as when the EMPI carb was jetted and set for the VW block.

I also took 9 hours last night after my initial block swap work with my buddy, and read the "single carb 101" threads, and really schooled myself on the theory, and design elements of this feature. Dan and Joe, I for one cannot thank you enough for sharing your hard work and results to this group. The data is invaluable as far as I am concerned.
 
Okay trying to get a better handle on things, but made my stovebolt order. I need to decide between the uni link or making one, I will order the uni link just in case, its relatively cheap. 2 additional trains of thought.

1) I have a handle on how to improve the temp of the steel mani. I have the spacer and the stovebolt carb coming. I am going to cradle the square plenum bottom with more square stock and using end caps to secure them. I will allow for cooling tube clearance. This way I can conduct heat directly up from the top of the block. Pro, less expensive

2) honestly. i am going to consider dumping this turd, ordering the type 4 manifold and setting up with more proven techniques that I have seen here. The fact that the entire setup is steel. I think there is cooling going on along the steel runners as well, I just feel more comfortable building the whole thing using techniques I have learned from others here, and just getting rid of mine. Con slightly larger investment Definite Pro - Proven techniques with observable satisfied users.

So, I would need the type four. Steel plate to adapt for the type 4 plenum. I have the fuel system set and committed. I want to use straight radiator tube, 1.25 ID for the runners, I was considering using springs for reinforcement, or if I were to elect to use PVC for the runners...hmm....well, its home now, and tonight at least I can get my trusty steel ruler out and check things out. Yea, I guess I get to boost the amount I will make in scrap. :roll:

The one thing that has always bugged me about the design, the scuare shape. Now that I understand concepts better, I am starting to think the square plenum is not supporting a good venturi. I ALWAYS have had uneven plus, #2 is dark, and #3 oddly enough. Oh my good friend that showed me so much. He says its crap. He says its all wrong. He said that venturi needs to follow curves to be more effective, the sharp edges on the one I bought is just wrong. After watching him do what took me two days just to remove last time today, I trust his sage advice. Sucks, but that that does not work is only supporting data to give for people inthe future considering this design.

So, I am going to emulate the work here, I want this done right, I watched a you tube vid of the type 4 setup, and mine has NEVER ran like that. I believe its not only the empi carb but the manifold itself.

Where can I get a filter assembly at a price near Langdon's. 7.5 inches should just fit, or I can trim the thin side panels, but I was wondering where I can get a rectangular one the works on the stovebolt?
 
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