Crank pulley

[David]

Hi . I am going to do the alternator conversion March /April. I have taken Dan's spes for crank pulley to a machinist.
Are the specs the machinist specs? Can I make the pulley from aluminium ,do you think it would be strong enough ,should be. A couple more questions please. can the small part with the key slot be any longer or is it enough ?What belt # is it that you used Dan . I really like the way you built your mounting bracket. Is it aluminium ? By the way ,how long is the crank bolt now? I wouldn't ask so many questions but I want it to be right. One more thing Dan, when moving the rad forward, is it possible for me to extend the top pipe and keep in in it's original place?
I appreciate the info and pictures of your conversion. Hope you don't mind the questions.
I promise to ask more as I actually get into the conversion !! Looking forward to it.
Best Regards
David

 

[David]

I will be keeping a log complete with pictures that I will post. as I get into this adventure. with the conversion.
Regards

 

[dan filipi]

Happy to help David.
All I ask in return is for you to post pictures of your setup along the way and any shortcuts and tricks you came up with to help others out.

I had the pulley made from steel. I hadnt even considered aluminum until someone recently said there are different "grades" of aluminum it could be made from. I don't know metals so I cant advise about that.

When I gave those specs to the machinist I also left a crank with him to make sure the keyway was right and the step would fit into the crank. After it was done he said his guy didnt even look at the crank, just went off the specs. The pulley fits perfectly onto the crank.

The small part with the key slot is long enough.
The center of the large belt washer has to be drilled out to allow the pulley to slide into the crank. Easy deal with a step bit.

My alternator mount is aluminum. It's holding up fine.
This mount is tricky to get right because where it cinches down will determine where the alternator sits and at what angle to the crank and there is not much room to play with at the carbs. Thats why I used a long threaded bolt on the lower pivot so I could adjust the alternator position left to right.

The slotted adjuster bracket I made from a old Genie garage door opener door bracket.
70's Chevy pickups use a bracket similar which would be easier than making one.

The radiator.
No reason the existing filler neck couldnt be extended. I just did that on a early radiator I'm modding to fit into a '84 1200.

I'll post some pics.

 

[David]

Thanks alot Dan. You 're a great help.
I certainly will post step by step pictures as I go.
Best Regards.
David

 

[dan filipi]

Until I get the pictures sorted and uploaded you can check out what I did at this link if you havent already
https://filipi.com/alternator/alternator.htm
I posted the crank bolt size there and how I made up the first crank pulley.

I also have a template I traced of the bracket I'd like to post but I may pull the bracket and get a better trace with some measurements.

Click on the link to my photo gallery below, that's where I'll be putting the pics and other specs.

 

[David]

Thanks Dan.
I took the rest of the specs to the machinist. I dicided to go with a v groove pulley. I'm thinking it will be narrower. I .m hoping this will allow me to not have to move the rad as far forward , but we'll see when I get there.
The machinist agreed with the posibility of an aluminum pulley but informed me that its weak point would be the key way. Because of that, I decided to go steel. I don't want problems I can prevent.
Dan, do you remember what model alternator your Nipendenso is. I like the small size and one wire hookup. The store said they can order one in no problem. Thanks for all the help.
David

 

[dan filipi]

The model I havent been able to find out. I picked this one from a used bunch off the shelf.
It's 45 amp from a fork lift if that helps any.

Any more room you can get the better. Try a mini V belt. Those things are almost like rubber bands.

Looking at this picture, my belt just misses the cooling fan bracket just above it, that bracket is the main reason the radiator top needs to move forward.

 

[joedrum]

wow david this going to be a great post to keep up on. the only thing i could see bad about steel pulley would be if it was out of balance so bad to cause wear that way. i think you made the right choice though going with steel.

 

[David]

I hear you ,however, I'm confident the machinist will be able to take care of that, but I will be sure to ask him .
Thanks for the heads up. It's an important point.

 

[dan filipi]

I didnt do any balancing on mine. I figger because it was made on a CNC machine it should be balanced well enough to not pose any future problems.
It is a good point though. If your guy has the means to balance then I would, the finished part does way a bit.

 

[David]

Well I stripped my old friend down. and changed the timing belts.(I used Napa ) I am waiting for the alternator and crank pulley. Meanwhile I did some work on my seat. It is original. I scooped it out making it lower as well, it fits more like a saddle now with a nice deep back support It looks good with the backrest too. I will take some pictures and post them ,need to buy some bateries. I'm going to change the thermostat as well , and check the water pump. I might as since it is apart. Checking the rad, it is in excellent shape!
Talk at you later.
David

 

[dan filipi]

Well I went and ran the bike some to compare fan on and off times with the 1200, suddenly the engine slowed down. Looked at the digital voltmeter showing almost 16 volts and shut er down. It looks like the regulator gave up so it's time to get the alternator rebuilt :head bang: That sucks with money tight!
Wonder why I got just 10k miles out of it.

 

[mcgovern61]

Well I went and ran the bike some to compare fan on and off times with the 1200, suddenly the engine slowed down. Looked at the digital voltmeter showing almost 16 volts and shut er down. It looks like the regulator gave up so it's time to get the alternator rebuilt :head bang: That sucks with money tight!
Wonder why I got just 10k miles out of it.

Dan, I am not an electrician, but back in the early '80's I bought a wooden boat that had a slant 6 engine that was siezed. I found another one and put it in. Over time, it keep killing batteries, burning the points out and frying the alternator. What I learned is that a ballast resistor was required in the system. I do not know if this applies to your alternator/regulator or not, but after I put in a ballast resistor, I never had another issue.

 

[dan filipi]

I've never seen a resistor as part of an alternator battery circuit. I have on the coils to reduce voltage.
Can you detail that any more Gerry?

The voltage didnt jump up right away, I had been running it for 10 minutes then suddenly as if someone threw a switch it shot up to 16. It could be as simple as a loose connection inside, it did this a few days ago for about 5 seconds but went back to normal.
I suspect as hot as it gets behind the fairing has something to do with it. Running to the shop today, I'll ask him if heat had anything to do with it.

 

[joedrum]

i dont know if you have already but it might be the time to do away with all the connectors around the stator this would have to be an asset to susies upgrade you have made for her rig just the best to you dan!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[mcgovern61]

I've never seen a resistor as part of an alternator battery circuit. I have on the coils to reduce voltage.
Can you detail that any more Gerry?

The voltage didnt jump up right away, I had been running it for 10 minutes then suddenly as if someone threw a switch it shot up to 16. It could be as simple as a loose connection inside, it did this a few days ago for about 5 seconds but went back to normal.
I suspect as hot as it gets behind the fairing has something to do with it. Running to the shop today, I'll ask him if heat had anything to do with it.

As I said, I am not an electrician. The slant 6 came out of '68 Dodge Dart and the ballast resistor was mounted on the firewall. I took it off and installed it after the battery but between everything else. (I cannot tell you if that was absolutely correct, but it worked for that engine.)

 

[David]

I took some pictures today of my Wing. I will post them later tonight or tomorrow. I need my wife here to show me how to do it.
I am really illiterate when it comes to this.

 

[David]

Here are some pics of my conversion project to date. Still waiting on the crank pulley. New timing belts ore on. pictures of my now sculpted seat, and one which will explain why I'm not in a hurry to ride.
David

 

[joedrum]

about a week ago it was like that here in southern Indiana im just know starting to be able to work outside. the bike looks great David

 

[dan filipi]

The seat looks comfy.

What is the pulley costing you?