Crank Seal Oil Leak Revisited

[silverbullet]

I have this 1978 GL1000 that had sat outside for 5 years. Water got into the crankcase & pitted the shaft that the seal goes over. Twice now it has been sanded down & new seal put on yet it still leaks.
My question is, Is there some kind of Speedy Sleeve or a bushing made to fit over this piece as to once again get a seal? If so where can you get this & what is the part number.

I have not tried using the transmission sealer yet. May do it next oil change. How much would you put it? Takes 4 quarts.....
Thanks!

 

[mcgovern61]

Lou, that is a tough one! I do not know of anything that can be done except metal spray and machining which requires the crank to come out. At that point, you would just replace the crank.

Maybe some of the others who have more experience here on this will have a better answer.

 

[AApple]

Leak stop won't fix a pitted crank surface...don't waste your time on that. A good machine shop should be able to whittle up a thin sleeve to fit over the end of the crank...much like the sleeves used on Chevy cranks that have grooves worn in them. You'll need to measure both the crank diameter in that area, and the length needed. I don't know if there are such sleeves available for the 'Wing...but ya never know.

 

[mcgovern61]

Leak stop won't fix a pitted crank surface...don't waste your time on that. A good machine shop should be able to whittle up a thin sleeve to fit over the end of the crank...much like the sleeves used on Chevy cranks that have grooves worn in them. You'll need to measure both the crank diameter in that area, and the length needed. I don't know if there are such sleeves available for the 'Wing...but ya never know.

Doesn't the crank have to come out for that work?

 

[AApple]

I don't know for sure, but I wouldn't think so. If you can get a good measurement...or find a sleeve already made for it, the sleeve just presses right on over the end of the crank snout. At least that's how they work on the auto engines. Ya gotta pull the crank gear off to replace the seal anyway, so as long as you can get a straight shot at it from the front, it should be do-able.
Someone here is bound to have a good crank that could be measured... :builder:

 

[slabghost]

Once the pits are sanded almost completely away you need to smooth out the scratches left from the sanding with fine crocus cloth and follow with polishing to a bright shine. Any scratches will allow oil past the seal. If the seal is still small enough to seal it may last a very long time.

 

[scdmarx]

I have used J-B Weld to fill in gouges and seal surfaces with very good success. It needs to be absolutely clean and dry before application. First you need to sand down the ridges of the scratch. Then clean it with brake clean, preferably one with an acetone base because it seems to dry cleaner and better. Then artistically fill the crevices with the JB Weld, and sand it down till it can't be felt. Never tried it on pitting, but don't know why it wouldn't work the same. A sleeve kit would be best, but I really doubt you're gonna find anything like that sitting on a shelf.
JB Weld was the factory recommended fix for cracked cylinder wall in the Vega motor. Now they got JB KwickWeld.

 

[dan filipi]

I was going to suggest JB weld earlier but since I hadn't ever actually tried it I wasn't sure.
Thanks Ron.

Being where that seal surface is at that's going to be a tough if not impossible task.

I have an 1100 crank if you need something measured.

 

[scdmarx]

Being where that seal surface is at that's going to be a tough if not impossible task.

I was kinda thinking the same thing, but I wasn't sure and he said he's already sanded it, so.... :?: :?: :?: :?:

Still might be possible if all it needs is a smooth area where the seal lip rides.

 

[scdmarx]

Just in case somebody doesn't know about this, here is a trick that helps me sometimes when I have sealing problems and don't trust the sealing surface.

Remove the pressure spring from behind the seal lip.


Find the section where the two ends connect. Twist it to unscrew the ends apart.


Cut about 1/8" off the end. Caution: Cut the correct end! I use wire cutters. Then screw the ends back together by twisting and re-insall the spring behind the seal lip.


It's been my experience that "normally", a new neoprene lip seal will tolerate up to .010" of imperfection against a rotating shaft. But there are times when a little extra tension is desirable. Do keep in mind that the more spring tension, the more rapid the wear against the surface of the rotating shaft. But if you're at the point where you might have to replace the shaft anyways......

 

[dan filipi]

Cool trick there Ron.

 

[silverbullet]

Well my second seal bit the dust & oil was puking out on my shoes again. Again they wanted to replace the seal for the third time. I just couldn't see doing the same job over & expecting different results. I even suggested the JB weld.

While talking about this on my scooter forum a member sent me a link where this was talked about on another forum. What some folk have had success with is using this automotive seal. National 223542 Only the one I got was made from Federal Mongual, same part number. Its a double lipped seal thats the right size yet a bit bigger in the width allowing it to slide on further into the engine. Past where it was pitted. I picked it up from O Reillys for just over 9 bucks.

Got a couple hundred miles on the bike & so far its holding! :beg: :clapping: . In the event it starte leaking again I'm going to look for a sleeve. Because if theirs an automotive seal that works on the wing........Theirs got to be a sleeve out there that will work.

 

[dan filipi]

Hey good deal, seems like that new one should solve the problem!

 

[AApple]

Kewl! Moving the seal to a different location can certainly "fix" a problem leak a lot of times. Of course, having the double lip helps, but the first "lip" on the front of the seal is more for dust protection than actual sealing, in most cases. There are definitely double lipped seals that have two fully functioning seal areas....I see them all the time on transfer cases.
Hope this one stops the leak! I may have to get me one of those seals just to look....

 

[scdmarx]

I may have to get me one of those seals just to look....

For the water pump? :yahoo:

 

[AApple]

You silly boy... :smilie_happy: :mrgreen: :smilie_happy:
Naw..just interested in case I need one. The way things have been goin, ya never know when mine will take a dump. :doh: