Daeouse's GL1200 Freebie Restoration

[Rednaxs60]

You are going to enjoy your 1200 once you get it on the road, so will your friend.

Cheers

 

[Daeouse]

Utilizing tips posted on this marvelous site, I pulled the spark plugs and manually turned the engine over! It turns without binding!

:yahoo:

If I can work out what a video shows online, I will be re-connecting the hydraulic clutch since the lever and master cylinder came in! After that, if I can do it without terrible things happening, I will then try firing electrons at the wiring to see if anything good happens. . .

 

[slabghost]

Sounds promising! Good luck getting the clutch bled and working. Dreading that job here.

 

[Omega Man]

opcorn: this thread is full of win.

~O~

 

[Daeouse]

slabghost » Today, 7:05 pm[/url]":3rcz0dcb]
Sounds promising! Good luck getting the clutch bled and working. Dreading that job here.

Got any recommendations for it? LOL

 

[Rednaxs60]

Would recommend rebuild of clutch slave. Lots of crud will build up and be deposited in the slave cylinder. Only two parts needed for rebuild, approximately $15.00 USD.

Cheers

 

[Daeouse]

Rednaxs60 » 17 minutes ago[/url]":2uv25g4a]
Would recommend rebuild of clutch slave. Lots of crud will build up and be deposited in the slave cylinder. Only two parts needed for rebuild, approximately $15.00 USD.

Cheers

Would that require taking the engine out of the frame?

 

[brianinpa]

No. Some of the bolts are a pain to get to, but it can be removed without pulling the motor. Oh, and get a cheap vacuum bleed. Makes it so much easier.

 

[Rednaxs60]

I also install speed bleeders on the brake calipers and the clutch slave. Makes flushing of the lines a one person job and very easy.

Here's the site: https://www.speedbleeder.com/

Cheers

 

[Tom_Charlton]

+1 on the hand operated vacuum pump, one of the best tools invented. Other wise, you need to depress the clutch, hold it in, and reach way down to operate the bleeder on the clutch slave cylinder.

 

[Daeouse]

Rednaxs60 » 18 minutes ago[/url]":32xytzx3]
I also install speed bleeders on the brake calipers and the clutch slave. Makes flushing of the lines a one person job and very easy.

Here's the site: https://www.speedbleeder.com/

Cheers

:rocks: :rocks: :rocks:
Thanks!

No. Some of the bolts are a pain to get to, but it can be removed without pulling the motor. Oh, and get a cheap vacuum bleed. Makes it so much easier.

Excellent.

+1 on the hand operated vacuum pump, one of the best tools invented. Other wise, you need to depress the clutch, hold it in, and reach way down to operate the bleeder on the clutch slave cylinder.

My mechanic friends would agree whole-heartedly with this. . .

 

[mcgovern61]

Rednaxs60 » Mon Feb 19, 2018 9:07 pm[/url]":bter348t]
I also install speed bleeders on the brake calipers and the clutch slave. Makes flushing of the lines a one person job and very easy.

Here's the site: https://www.speedbleeder.com/

Cheers

I also use speed bleeders on all of my brake calipers and they make the one person brake flush or bleeding real easy and quick.

 

[Daeouse]

OK! Today I opened up the bike and degreased the wiring and inner surfaces of what I could reach. The wiring looks a mess, so I'm now at a crossroads.

Wiring

• Daeouse
• Feb 20, 2018

Wiring pre-evaluation, post wash

Wiring

• Daeouse
• Feb 20, 2018

Wiring pre-evaluation, post wash

Wiring

• Daeouse
• Feb 20, 2018

Wiring pre-evaluation, post wash

Wiring

• Daeouse
• Feb 20, 2018

Wiring pre-evaluation, post wash

Wiring

• Daeouse
• Feb 20, 2018

Wiring pre-evaluation, post wash

Wiring

• Daeouse
• Feb 20, 2018

Wiring pre-evaluation, post wash

Wiring

• Daeouse
• Feb 20, 2018

Wiring pre-evaluation, post wash

Wiring

• Daeouse
• Feb 20, 2018

Wiring pre-evaluation, post wash

Wiring

• Daeouse
• Feb 20, 2018

Wiring pre-evaluation, post wash

Wiring

• Daeouse
• Feb 20, 2018

Wiring pre-evaluation, post wash

Do I attempt repairs, or do I replace the harness to save me the tears?

 

[brianinpa]

I think I'd take the plastic off so you can get a good look at it all. Finding an unmolested harness would be a monumental task, and looking at the pictures you have there, it's fixable as long as there isn't any hot spots.

 

[mcgovern61]

50/50. When I went to rebuild my '82 harness, I pulled it and fixed all of the wiring plus I got a chance to add exactly what I needed for upgrades.

viewtopic.php?p=177401#p177401

During my search for a fuse/relay panel, I found quite a few 1200 wire harnesses out there on Ebay. The thing you need to realize is that there is more than one harness on the 1200 and you would need to know exactly which one(s) you were replacing.

 

[desertrefugee]

I've definitely seen worse. I'd leave it as is for now. It may (may) work better than it looks. It's sometimes easier to fix what you have than wholesale replace with another unknown. The only really critical portions are ignition and charging. Those will strand you (unless it's lights at 2:00AM). But, I digress.

 

[Daeouse]

Some of the weird add-ons make me nervous, so I'll double-check the wiring diagram to see what's been changed. If I can, I'll save this harness, but if not, I will replace with a tested new harness.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Interesting pictures. The wiring is not that bad. You can tell what has been added and can be disconnected for use. Take one wire at a time, find out what it is there for and remove if necessary. Try to take all add-on wiring off and start from scratch. Keep a record of what you find, invaluable for further trouble shooting down the road. There are some good threads on this, but it will take time and patience.

Pick a starting point such as the stator wiring as inferred by desertrefugee. Easy to identify and verify correct. Next item I would look at is a new starter solenoid and wire it up correctly. The wiring for the starter solenoid is a red, red-white, yellow-red, green-red wires. The red wire goes to the ignition switch, the red-white wire is from the stator, the yellow-red is from the start button on the right handle bar switch assembly, and the green-red wire goes to ground through the clutch diode.

The picture showing the wiring harness open by the is interesting from a wiring perspective. Find the largest red wire in that part of the harness, and the red-white striped wire as well. Follow it back to the starter solenoid, then follow it forward to a spot where you will find these two wires connected together as in this picture:

This is how the OEM designed the wiring harness and is supposed to be there. Make sure it is well insulated.

The RR wiring and connector looks not too bad. At this stage I'd just take it apart to verify the condition, clean and reconnect. More thoughts on this will surely follow.

Looks like you need a new starter cable. Change/clean the engine to battery ground as well.

Lots of good advice and direction can be found on this forum.

This should get you going.

Cheers.

 

[Daeouse]

Rednaxs60 » Today, 2:15 am[/url]":2f21hrb3]
Interesting pictures. The wiring is not that bad. You can tell what has been added and can be disconnected for use. Take one wire at a time, find out what it is there for and remove if necessary. Try to take all add-on wiring off and start from scratch. Keep a record of what you find, invaluable for further trouble shooting down the road. There are some good threads on this, but it will take time and patience.

Pick a starting point such as the stator wiring as inferred by desertrefugee. Easy to identify and verify correct. Next item I would look at is a new starter solenoid and wire it up correctly. The wiring for the starter solenoid is a red, red-white, yellow-red, green-red wires. The red wire goes to the ignition switch, the red-white wire is from the stator, the yellow-red is from the start button on the right handle bar switch assembly, and the green-red wire goes to ground through the clutch diode.

The picture showing the wiring harness open by the is interesting from a wiring perspective. Find the largest red wire in that part of the harness, and the red-white striped wire as well. Follow it back to the starter solenoid, then follow it forward to a spot where you will find these two wires connected together as in this picture:This is how the OEM designed the wiring harness and is supposed to be there. Make sure it is well insulated.

The RR wiring and connector looks not too bad. At this stage I'd just take it apart to verify the condition, clean and reconnect. More thoughts on this will surely follow.

Looks like you need a new starter cable. Change/clean the engine to battery ground as well.

Lots of good advice and direction can be found on this forum.

This should get you going.

Cheers.

Wow! Thanks so much for the in-depth response! I shall begin work on this ASAP!

 

[Daeouse]

Ok, since I was curious, I dug up a battery to test the wiring harness. It doesn't have the CCA's to even get past the Solenoid, but it does have enough to make (most) features work.

Initial power!

Power Test

• Daeouse
• Feb 22, 2018

Some lights work!

Hazards!

Power Test

• Daeouse
• Feb 22, 2018

Some lights work!

Tail lights and auxiliary!

Power Test

• Daeouse
• Feb 22, 2018

Some lights work!

Front auxiliary lights:

Power Test

• Daeouse
• Feb 22, 2018

Some lights work!

Videos!
View attachment Project.7z