Dagnabbit!!! (stator failure)

[AApple]

i just saw this thread, so i'm late to the party. but i would be very careful with aftermarket stators. greg fosi on NGW can tell you about his horror story. anyway, before you rip out the engine, unplug the stator, start the bike and measure between the yellow wires coming out of the stator. at 3000 RPM you should have 50 volts AC. measure all the wires between each other. any yellow to any yellow to any yellow. if you don't have 50volts, the stator is bad. if you do, you don't have to replace it. the problem is else where

OTAY!! :clapping: :thanks:
I took off werk early to come home and start ripping this b :sensored: h apart, but I wanted to do the other tests I din't know about until later. I disconnected the black wire at the reg after starting, per the FSM, and that made no improvement.
Then...I checked the AC voltage on the 3 yaller wires @3000....I have 60+ AC volts on all three, from yaller to yaller to yaller to yaller! :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: Sooooo if Imma unnerstanding this cerektly, the stator is putting out?(that don't quite sound right do it? But ya knows whut I means).
What am I looking at? The reg/rec? Please tell me that's the prollem...PREEEEZE! :beg:
IF.....IF I need a new R/R, should I go to the MOSFET type, or try to find the factory type? Inquiring minds(at least whut's left of mine) want to know.

I did read Greg's story about his stator coming apart, and locking the engine down...that would suck a fat one. :rant:

I feel a weeeee bit better now, but still not out of the woods.... :thanks:

 

[MrGeo]

:laptop: Think DOG BONE first, one dog bone connects to Rec/Reg, may need to replace W auto fuse holders see dis:

gallery/album.php?album_id=752

Also might want to reconfigure starter solenoid, get rid of two spade connectors, check spade connector under seat near where you sit, I truly hope I don't sound like an idiot! Maybe Dan will tell me to shut up if I'm out in left field. :music3: :music3:

 

[joedrum]

your fine joel ...as far as i know the mosfet regulator dosnt keep the stator from running full out put and actuly puts more heat in the stator but im not certain on that ...but i have read it more than once....when you said you did the stator wires and they were soderd i thought there was a good cahance it was down the line ...this is great news... :mrgreen:

 

[AApple]

Tanx Mr. G! I got rid of the doggybone fuse a couple of years ago...gots an inline maxi-fuse in there now.

Tanx Joe! I'm wondering now if my freekin multimeter might not be giving me false ohm readings. I did replace the batteries in it the other day while I was messing with this crap, but I still cannot get it to "0" when I touch the leads together. Dang thing is only 14-15 years old.... :smilie_happy:
I just hope that the R/R is the problem. It would be worth what I see them selling for an fleabay to buy one just to test it out, and see if that would fix the problem. :yes:

 

[MrGeo]

Tanx Mr. G! I got rid of the doggybone fuse a couple of years ago...gots an inline maxi-fuse in there now.

Tanx Joe! I'm wondering now if my freekin multimeter might not be giving me false ohm readings. I did replace the batteries in it the other day while I was messing with this crap, but I still cannot get it to "0" when I touch the leads together. Dang thing is only 14-15 years old.... :smilie_happy:
I just hope that the R/R is the problem. It would be worth what I see them selling for an fleabay to buy one just to test it out, and see if that would fix the problem. :yes:

:fiddle: Some times makes me feel like I'm naggin, sorry. Key switch mite be hangin up also, work it some before starting. Got some elect cleaner spray? Un plug key switch an spray, also R/R plug in. Try to leave no stone unturned. :music3: :music3:

 

[dan filipi]

Listen to Geo, it sounds like he has a lot of experience with the charging system on these beasts.

It would be worth it to make a run to Harbor freight for a new DVOM so your crappy one isn't steering you wrong.

I have a couple RR I can test and send to you iffin you want them.
Better deal than taking a chance on one from Ebay that might be bad.

 

[cyborg]

if you are reading at least 50 volts AC on the yellow wire test, your stator is good. i also have a number of good regulators as well. :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: if you need one let me know.

 

[jdegase]

I did a mosfet regulator conversion last year, it improved the voltage output the most.
still only gonna get the max watts outta your old stator, just no way around that.
but for charging the battery my output went up to 14.5 even at idle .
stays almost perfect constant now.
wasnt hard to do. especially if you have the wires soldered already.

just my .02
we are all pullin for ya bro.

 

[AApple]

:thanks:
Thanks guys! I will continue to check all of the other connections...I have been twisting the ign switch back/forth several times with no improvements so far. The connector at the R/R has been cleaned, and terminals re-sized. I'll have to dig down and find the connector for the ign switch to the harness, and clean that bugger too. I don't think my 1100 has two doggybone fuses as Mr. G's 1200 does, but I'll check the wire harness completely from the ign to the stator for other issue related to charging.
The stator IS putting out a charge...it's just not enough to keep the battery above 12.5v at all times. It shows around 12.6 @ 3000rpm, but if I hit the brake, turn sig, or hi beam, it drops it down below 12.5. I know it used to have over 14.5 at idle before, even with all of the extra lights/stereo/radar defector running.
My werk commute takes about an hour, some of that time is stop/go(mostly stop) traffic. I can't take a chance of the batt goin dead in that situation, so I ain't ridin until it's fixed. I could get by ridin short trips, tho.
Stoopid design on the charging system, iffin ya ask me. :whip:

 

[dan filipi]

That's a good thought chas.
A bad battery can do strange things.

I have one agm with a dead cell.
Seems to take a charge but quickly drops to 8 volts.

Just had to replace my truck battery after just 6 months.
It took a full charge fine but would read under 12 volts the next morning. Cranked fine.

 

[dan filipi]

Yeah that's the thing, even a load test on my truck battery showed it was good. Pep girls hooked it up to some fancy diagnostic machine that took 45 minutes to perform a test to actually come back with a true test of the batteries condition.

 

[AApple]

:rant: :head bang: :Awe: :sensored:
Youse guys! :smilie_happy:
The battery is less than a year old, AGM. Even with a bad battery, the charge voltage would still be above 12.5, unless bike charging systems are different from automotive systems. I can unhook the AGM battery, and hook my booster box up to start it, and see if the charging voltage changes, as a test, but...Imma tellin ya, I don't think that's gunna change anything. I'll let yas know...Thanks for helpin, tho... :thanks: :thanks: :thanks:

btw...the bike doesn't have a problem starting...the battery spins it very quickly every time....voltage never gets below 11 volts while cranking, either. :yes:

 

[slabghost]

Start with a new known good meter as suggested above. You may find everything is actually good. Or you may find the problem is something easier to fix. Un solder the stator wires and do the tests.

 

[mcgovern61]

If the stator is putting out and the R/R is working...you will feel a lot of heat on the R/R as it charges the battery and dumps the excess. No heat....no R/R. (Could still be wiring)

 

[AApple]

opcorn:

So...here's where I b today....
I hooked up my booster box by itself, fired it up, and still no charge. The R/R is getting warm, but I wouldn't call it hot, by any means. I did take it off, and the back side of it looks like it's bubbled up a little, but not what I would call melted.
I took the starter solenoid off, cleaned all of the terminals for it, checked the fuse & cable connections, etc. I'm pretty much done checking stuff. I think I'm gonna get another R/R and plug it in. If it don't work, then...I don't know what the hell to do. The stator is putting out the 50+ AC volts on all three of the yaller wires, and that's checking it AT the R/R connector, from yaller to yaller to yaller, so I gotta believe the wiring from the stator to the RR is ok.
I've got battery voltage on the two red/white wires at the RR, which is correct.
I've got battery voltage on the black wire at the RR with the key on, which is correct.
I'm getting really frustrated....if this was a car, I'd had this thing fixed a week ago....
I appreciate all of the help and support from youse guys...if it weren't for that, Ida prolly just sold the dam thing and looked for something else to ride....like THIS! :moped:
:smilie_happy: :thanks:

 

[mcgovern61]

I hooked up my booster box by itself, fired it up, and still no charge. The R/R is getting warm, but I wouldn't call it hot, by any means. I did take it off, and the back side of it looks like it's bubbled up a little, but not what I would call melted.

Even bubbled up is not good....it overheated. (Common problem) Looks like the stator is putting out fine! :music:

That R/R is most likely your problem. If it works with the new (used) one the next thing to do is trace why it overheated.

 

[dan filipi]

That is odd it bubbled on the back, first I've heard of that happening.
I pulled the RR from my parts bike and the back compound is completely smooth.

I'd check over all your wiring very carefully paying close attention to the charge circuit wiring plug pins and grounds.

I have a known good RR I'm sending Joel this afternoon. He should have it in a few days.

 

[AApple]

That R/R is most likely your problem. If it works with the new (used) one the next thing to do is trace why it overheated.

I'm going with the bad connections where the plug used to be. The plug had been replaced with three separate male/female terminals...one of those was in pretty bad shape. I may have waited too long to solder them... :crying:
Trust me...I have checked every friggin (charge)circuit on this turd...the wiring, at this point is solid. The only thing I have not done is cut the wires AT the R/R connector and soldered them, which has been suggested. I don't wanna do that until I get a good charging system back up and running. I HAVE re-sized/crimped/cleaned all of the terminals in that connection, so I'm certain they are making good contact right now.
Thanks Dan! And everyone else for their input and support....I gotta get back on two wheels....I'm havin withdrawals!!! :smilie_happy:

 

[joedrum]

sounds like good plan to me

 

[mcgovern61]

....I gotta get back on two wheels....I'm havin withdrawals!!! :smilie_happy:

Dan....post your video of your riding in the country....that should help Joel in the meantime! :smilie_happy: