Dagnabbit!!! (stator failure)

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Seems like good news, need more testing.

I suggested bypassing the harness wiring direct from the RR plug because that would either eliminate or confirm a bad connection in the harness before cutting into it.
 
ok guys, i am a forklift mechanic and i work on both gas and electric forklifts so i know my way around an ohm meter very well. One ohm resistance to ground is basically a dead short. when reading ohms, the higher the number, i.e. 50,000-2,000,000 ohms, the better your insulated. so aaples stator would appear to be shorted to ground. I believe that the ac voltage test can still read ok due to the fact that you just read between yellow stator wires, but once it changes to dc thru the regulator then your frame ground comes into play causing the problem.
 
:laptop: I have had aapples stator problems on my mind for a week now and have searched the web for any info to explain the problems and to educate myself on goldwing electronics. I'm not an electronic whiz and never claimed to be, but I happen to accidently run across this link which is so well written on different areas of goldwing electronics, I just had to share it. The stator sections and the "add on accessories" section are worth the time to read. These articles cover the gl1000,1100 and 1200. Hope they help someone. www.rotordesign.com/goldwing/goldwingtech/electrical
 
:crying:
Thanks for the link...very informative stuff there.
Well....I guess I'm pretty much stuck here, ain't I? No choice but to pull the engine and replace the stator. :head bang: Oh well...at least we tried. :builder:

btw Dan...I've already done the cont test...I DO get a tone from EACH of the yaller wires to ground.... :crying:
 
Ya'll look out, I'm having a thought>could be dangerous. Will a 1200 stator and R/R fit a 1100. If this is possible, you pick up an additional 4 amps, plus you upgrade to a six diode R/R made with better materials and runs cooler. The 1200 R/R utilizes 3 SCR, one for each phase where the older ones only measure one phase of the stator with a single SCR. I've never done a stator before so I don't know if it assembles the same or not. Also the 1200 runs in oil from the engine so I don't know if that is a concern or not. I read where the 1100 was upgraded in 83 to the later style R/R but I don't know if the stator output was upped also. Just a thought. Might be able to pick up some more juice for the same cost as original repair.
 
I ran across this while looking some more....thought it would be nice to share....I have NOT done this particular test, but I think it's gunna be a waste o time.
I guess I'm gunna start rippin mine apart....

 
Food for thought before you go back with original setup. Seems that 1000 1100 were designed with minimal electrical charging systems and then Honda upgraded somewhat when the 1200 came out giving an additional 4 amp output. I don't think the 1000 or the 1100 systems can handle any additional load for a very long time until you end up with the same situation as now. The driving lights obviously overloaded your system and it started declining with their use. The way I see it, running with any additional load(extra lights, driving lights larger sound systems) automaticly overloads the stock system and it can't produce enough power to run all those and keep the battery charged. I'm not having problems with my 1200 right now,(knock on wood), but I'm going with a alternator conversion when the time comes. I think it would be cheaper and easier than replacing a stator and easier to fix if it failed on a trip. The new mini Chevy Denso costs about the same as a new stator and gives you at least 40-50 amps to work with. Just my 2 pennies worth. Good luck with whatever you decide. We all hanging with you.
 
thanks AApple for your info in re stator ....... an epidemic? ...... also, interesting about driving lights, had a set, non- halogen, installed a few years back but always had trouble with them, thinking it was a ground issue, but wondering if their bad connection gave the stator a headache? They have been completely removed, although, thinking I really would like them back, working correctly. I live very rural and having a little more light on the road would be nice especially in the tighter corners. Anyway, did you pop for that ebay stator? and/or learn anything more about its quality? On my end, it looks like my wishful thinking is no more than that, cooked stator. Although, I will run her with the extra bag battery for now. No time to break her down and my shop has been totally broken down for a major move and I'm not going to break her down on a piece of plywood on a dirt floor, hell wouldn't even trust the lift to work right! Also, my thought was and still is to pull the stator and take it over to an old world company a few towns away that rewinds generators, starter motors etc, need to check pricing but thinking it might be at least about the same, but maybe they could wind her up with a little heavier wire making her a little stronger than "normal"...... and thats not because I run a lot of power, hell, I don't even have a radio .... wind in the ears ..... oh, one last thing, I can really relate to something you referred to, that being once you open her up, how many other things might you start doing ......." while we're at it" ....Crowe
 
I did not go with the ebay stator, even tho the same brand stator I did buy was available on ebay. I got mine from Dennis Kirk...I wanted to be able to have some warranty help if it craps out on me during the warranty period.
I have another thread detailing the install, and the self-made headaches I encountered in the process. Definitely worth a read for anyone wanting to attempt a stator replacement...hopefully, my screw-ups will save others from slinging hammers across the street... :smilie_happy:

GL 1100 Stator Swap-FINISHED!!! :read:
 

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