Dim Headlite

[sunnyl]

I have a 1977 G L 1000 with a Wind Jammer on it. The jammer is connected to the head lite by Quick connectors.
The problem I am having is a DIM headlite. I am going to install a new battery this weekend to see if it will help . The old bat is junk. I have an OHM meter but I don't know exactly how to use it Any info would help :thanks: :thanks:

 

[sunnyl]

I have ran 2 lines from the battery directly to the head lite and it is the same DIMMM. Also the signal lites only work when the engine is reved up to 1200 or more. If the signal is on and I hit the brake the signal stops working.

HELP

 

[joedrum]

the reserve lighting unit on these 75-77 can be the problem ...it was on my 77 but the whole light system was doing all kinds of stuff to the lighting ..

 

[joedrum]

try the battery first ...it seems bad for sure ...if it still funky im rather sure it reserve lighting unit ...it can be by passed

 

[sunnyl]

I have put new parts in the right handlebar off and on switch and still have the same thing

 

[slabghost]

Agreed try the new battery first. It could also be a funky ground connection.

 

[AApple]

Check your charging voltage with it running. Low voltage will cause dim lights, and will stop the turn sigs from flashing....and could also kill the battery.
I'm inclined to agree with the ground issue...except you say you ran two separate wires from the battery to the headlight, and it was still dim, so...start with checking your charging voltage.

 

[Anonymous]

:beg: :beg: OH OH I think the "S" word will come up in this post pretty soon.. :beg: :beg:

 

[sunnyl]

I bought a new battery today. I got a gell battery with a 1 year guarantee. I put it in and still have a not quite as dim headlight . I had it running and tried the signal lites and they still need the engine revved to 2000 to blink. I have installed a new rectafier . the old one did not have a black wire in the connection and the new one does

 

[dan filipi]

Need to put a volt meter on the battery while it's running.
Idle you should see over 13 volts, 3000 rpm over 14 volts.

 

[slabghost]

Is this a new to you bike? Turn your meter from Ohms to DC Volts. Put the red connector to the + terminal of the battery and the black connector to the - terminal of the battery. Start the bike and run up to 3000 rpm you should read a tiny bit above 14 volts.

 

[joedrum]

its the reserve lighting unit inde the left false tank cover towards the seat seat you nedd to bypass the e unit by upluging it and makes three jumper wires connections to by pass it ....the same thing is bad bad on twoo different oldwings im working on a 75 and a 77

 

[sunnyl]

NO. I HAVE HAD THE BIKE SINCE Newand all work has ben done by ME.

 

[slabghost]

NO. I HAVE HAD THE BIKE SINCE Newand all work has ben done by ME.

In that case. See Joedrums post above. That is most likely the fix you need.

 

[mwbill37841]

:idea: have you taken your sunglasses off ? :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :wave:

 

[sunnyl]

I took the bike for a ride today and it performed GRRREAT. Although when I got back I checked the plugs and found that I had a plug #4 was completely sooted up . I also had a Wire that was loose on the #4 plug.I replaced the plug and repaired the wire, but haven't started it up yet.The head lite was a little bit brighter but still had that dull look to it. The signal lites would work slowly,until I used the brake, then they would work realllllly slow,or not at all. I am using a sealed headlite bulb,if that makes any difference.

 

[sunnyl]

I haven't had a chance to get back to the bike since I last posted. My doughter is getting married tomorrow and I have been running around getting things. I am going to try to get out today and at least start it up.
I will try to make up three jumper wires to by-pas the liting system. Should I use aligator clips or quick conectors?
I see the diagram in the book BUT I am really DUM when it comes to reading a scamatic ( I can't even spell it)
I wish they had a drawing that was of the exact wirig of the bike, so people would know where and what they were talking about. You know something for DUMMIE'S :beg: :crying:

 

[joedrum]

i will look at mine at the ends ... they sould be female spade connectors that fit the two top wiring connectors that are unpluged from the reserve lighting unit....they sould be about three inches long is all ...so it all fits back in nice in the false tank covers....

 

[joedrum]

heres some pics sunny

this is a pic from the left side tank cover open ...the reserve lighting unit is box thats shape as to retangles togetherand the two top conectors unplugedthe connectors is where the bypass happens...

this is the jumper pic ...the big connector jumps from the two top male spades together ....the black wire jumps from lower male connector on the right in the pic of big connector to four spade connector top right in pic of smaller connector....the purple one from bottom left on big connector to to bottom left connector connector on the four spade connector ....i hope this helps and ive explaned it well im not good at that :mrgreen:

 

[joedrum]

once jumped the connector and bypass just fold in nice ..the connectors dont connect to anything anymore :builder: :mrgreen: you will be good to go now with lights bright i hope :mrgreen: