Drips from under rear brake disc

[dan filipi]

Joel, is that seal for the air also or just the oil?
The air on mine leak down after a few days.

 

[marcusknight]

is there a link or a YouTube video that shows how to replace seals on these? So many people I talk to claim its ridiculously hard to repair rear shocks compared to the front forks.

 

[AApple]

Dan, the seal I posted is the oil seal, on the lower end of the shock. If it leaks, it leaks oil...assuming there is still oil in the shock. It also holds the air in, but, as I said, if the seal is leaking enough to loose air, it'll also be leaking oil. If your loosing air only, I would be looking at the 2 o-ring seals on the top of the shock, or the air lines. Basically, you have the 2 o-rings on the top hat, and the lower seal, to hold in both the air and oil. :mrgreen:

is there a link or a YouTube video that shows how to replace seals on these? So many people I talk to claim its ridiculously hard to repair rear shocks compared to the front forks.

I'm sure there is, somewhere. Rebuilding the shocks can get difficult, if you don't have the proper equipment to safely compress the springs, BUT....if you're just looking to repair an oil leak, then changing the lower seals isn't hard at all. It's simply a matter of removing the old seals, and replacing them. There is a snap-ring that holds the seal in, a thick washer under that, and then the seal. Remove the snap ring and washer, drill a small hole in the seal, and screw a sheet metal screw into the hole, then use pliers to pop the seal out. Install the new seal, replace the washer and snap ring, and yer done. While you have the seal out, you can also remove the guide bushing, then turn the shock right side up, and drain the old oil. Then pour in new oil, replace the bushing-seal-washer and snap-ring, and yer done. Easy peasy!
I have a write-up with pics on how I did mine, if it helps to visualize the procedure... :good:

Progressive Suspension Rear Spring Installation by AApple Page 1

• dan filipi
• Oct 27, 2012

 

[Denver]

Sucks that you live on the other side of the country. Easy after you make you the tool from some threaded stock, nuts, washer's, floor flanges the size to get the hat through, & a plug for the other end. Forget the site, but it shows you how to do it, :good: you can change the springs, as well as the damper's, to suite yourself, from Progressive. :whistling:

 

[marcusknight]

So if I am going to replace the oil seal and refill any lost fluid, do I have to have a tool to compress the shock at all?

 

[Denver]

No, :nea: plug the hole for the air hose with a bolt, pour the fluid in while upside down to refill, & put back together. :yes:

 

[marcusknight]

I am going to finally take off this shock today and replace the seal. Can anyone tell me how much fluid to put back into the thing, what type to use? Transmission fluid? special device to get the fluid in without spilling?

 

[marcusknight]

So I finally have the new seal and and taking things apart to get the shock off. The bottom bolt looks very easy to remove. But the top one looks more difficult. The trunk rack is sandwiching things together. Two bolts on either side up against the upper shock bolt hole. There also appears to be two bolts on either side holding the trunk rack and rear fender to the frame.

Question: What is the most practical way to get the trunk rack loose so I can slide it off the upper shock bolt without having the rear fender fall apart or off? See picture.

 

[joedrum]

its a pain ...but not to bad ...one side at a time ...id say

 

[dan filipi]

I was going to rebuild my rear shocks with new springs and seals until I saw all the stuff that has to come off. Some other time.

 

[marcusknight]

got it all torn down now. Draining shock now.

 

[AApple]

To remove the rack, you'll need to remove the two acorn nuts on either side, where the upper shock mounts. Then there is one bolt that goes thru the center of rear fender(in front of the brake light housing) that needs to be removed. Then there are two shields on either side with two bolts each to be removed. There are two bolts that go thru the rack where the shields are, that also go thru the frame, and the fender. Those bolts come in from the inside of the fender. Take the nuts off, and push(may need a few taps with a hammer) the bolts to the inside just far enough to clear the rack. The rack will come off then. No worries about the fender falling off or anything else. One side of the rack has a slot that allows you to slide that side back, and then pull it to the other side to get the other side off the stud mount. Time consuming, but not difficult, or dangerous. :good:

A little visual from the Service Manual...

GL1100 80-83 Service Manual Page 19-7

• WindNWing
• Oct 16, 2012

I'm a little late to the party, it seems...I been out doing yard werk. :blush: I got your email...there is no worries on drilling the small hole in the seal to remove it. The seal will drill easily....once thru it, the steel washer will stop the bit from going any further. :good:

 

[marcusknight]

Thanks Joel. Can I take the bushing out easily without having to compress the shock? Sounds like it will be a lot easier to get all the fluid out and put it back in more quickly. Also, when I put the new seal in, how do I know when to stop pushing it? Will that be obvious?

 

[slabghost]

I should think it would be obvious when it contacts aforementioned steel washer? Usually seals do bottom out on something by design. I've not rebuilt any shocks myself but have installed a lot of seals.

 

[Denver]

Press things in just far enough to get the snap ring into it's groove & your there. :good:

 

[AApple]

The bushing may or may not come out easily. Once the seal is out, there is the thin flat washer, and then the guide bushing. There is NO spring pressure to any of these parts....the spring is seated on separate seat, held to the damper via circlip.
The guide bushing will have the "open" side facing UP, towards the top of the shock. You might be able to shake the bushing out, or use a strong magnet. On mine, I could move the outer chamber around a little and get the bushings to move a little at a time, but they do fit snug in there, so it's a crap shoot. If you leave the bushings in, and let the thing drain as much oil as possible out of them, then you can skwert a little air into the inlet where the hoses go, and perhaps pop the bushings out. Never tried to do it like that, but it should work...but should also make a mess, if yer not careful. :builder:

 

[Denver]

If you use air, be SURE to use a large heavy gauge plastic bag, :yes: or at least an old sock to catch all the part's. :good: Don't ask me how i know, oh2: if i told ya, i'd hafta kill ya. :smilie_happy: