dummy with a wrench - vol. 1; oil change

Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

BP

Well-known member
Joined
May 24, 2014
Messages
79
Reaction score
0
Location
Kansas
I decided to do the oil change tonight, I move houses July 1 and I want to have everything done before then. I found that when I take out the drain plug it chugs out rather than pours out [yes I did remove filler cap] but the oil looks like new. I removed filter housing and the blackest tar came out. Is this normal? [dark picture related]
IMG_1587_zpsb60d17d0.jpg


also this is what I am finding instructed on the book. I wanted to replace the small o-ring with the new one come with the filter (it's to the left there as pictured directly below)
IMG_1729_zpsf6d302a0.jpg


but this is as far as I can get... it's tighter than a :sensored: :sensored: ...
I tried to use a 12-point 12mm socket and rounded it off [the rusted bolt on exterior of filter housing], the only 6-point socket I had was a 1/4" drive with a 4inch handle and that after much effort did break it loose but I can't get the inner bolt separated from there, as pictured

IMG_3352_zps9e69a9a2.jpg

IMG_1139_zps15852a88.jpg
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=120175#p120175:341sauuh said:
backlander » Thu Jun 05, 2014 8:06 pm[/url]":341sauuh]
Just bump that bolt out with a rubber mallet or piece of wood, the o-ring is the only thing holding it in.

that's why this thread is dummy with a wrench, I thought that there were two pieces there, the perforated hollow bolt, and then the housing bolt.
 
It looks are deceiving, don't throw away the washer that goes between the spring and the filter, also there is a bypass valve in that hollow portion of the bolt. If the head of the bolt is stripped off, there frequently posted on ebay or someone here may have one they want to get rid of.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=120178#p120178:1f498ujj said:
backlander » Thu Jun 05, 2014 8:12 pm[/url]":1f498ujj]
It looks are deceiving, don't throw away the washer that goes between the spring and the filter, also there is a bypass valve in that hollow portion of the bolt. If the head of the bolt is stripped off, there frequently posted on ebay or someone here may have one they want to get rid of.

I just wanted to go quickly so I grabbed a ratchet... next time I need to use a wrench or a 6-point socket to avoid doing stuff like this.
 
so what's the story on the two different color of oils?
I never noticed that in the cager... that's all black when it comes out. but then again I run conventional there... this is my first go with synthetic so maybe this explains it.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=120185#p120185:3v8ec15e said:
backlander » Thu Jun 05, 2014 8:36 pm[/url]":3v8ec15e]
No idea, other than your filter is working like a boss.

I just found that I don't have a washer. I just put it all back together but I have a hesitation before filling it with 3.4 qt valued at 36 dollars.

That's the way it's been being ran at least, can it be too bad? run without the washer, yes or no?

edit: checked old filter but washer isn't stuck on there, I just thought of that.
 
Chugs instead of flows. My guess would be the filter itself was plugged up pretty good or maybe the bypass in the bolt is stuck. Either way the tar could have stayed in the housing and the newer oil took the easy way around. It can be used without the washer but I prefer that it be there and in it's proper place. It helps keep things in their proper place.
 
well I put it all back together... started it up and after about 5 seconds of red-light she purr once again
now I just need to moly paste and swap gear oil and should be ready to ride a couple thousand miles without messing with it
want to give it a good cleaning sometime... there's a plenty of dust in there, but the more important is being road-ready.
 
The washer basically keeps the spring from digging into the rubber seal of the filter. Many run without it with no harm done. They're still available from many parts suppliers, or a hardware store will probably have something that'll work. The Honda Part # is 15414-300-000.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=120174#p120174:353rsdy5 said:
BP » Thu Jun 05, 2014 10:01 pm[/url]":353rsdy5]
I found that when I take out the drain plug it chugs out rather than pours out [yes I did remove filler cap] but the oil looks like new. I removed filter housing and the blackest tar came out. Is this normal? [dark picture related]
IMG_1587_zpsb60d17d0.jpg

Uh...fellers? Am I the only one to notice that in this pic, he has removed the coolant drain plug....not the oil drain...since he has a dipstick?
This explains the two colors....sorry to say BP, but you just drained your coolant....not the engine oil. :blush:

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=120192#p120192:353rsdy5 said:
BP » Thu Jun 05, 2014 11:53 pm[/url]":353rsdy5]
well I put it all back together... started it up and after about 5 seconds of red-light she purr once again
now I just need to moly paste and swap gear oil and should be ready to ride a couple thousand miles without messing with it
want to give it a good cleaning sometime... there's a plenty of dust in there, but the more important is being road-ready.

DO NOT RIDE(or let the engine run very long at all) THIS BIKE UNTIL YOU REPLACE THE COOLANT!!!!!!
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=120248#p120248:wqme0it1 said:
AApple » Fri Jun 06, 2014 12:46 pm[/url]":wqme0it1]
Also explains the "chugging".... :blush:
Wow!!! How did the oil get into the coolant side??.......... :shock: :smilie_happy:




Just kidding........I saw the dipstick and actually made a mental note about the grime on it and how there must be something leaking on it. Never popped into my little head the dipstick tube was in place and not draining! :oops:
 

Latest posts

Top