dummy with a wrench - vol. 1; oil change

[shierh]

ok so you drained all the coolant out. so you can refill that. Should be the red stuff so it could be mistaken for engine oil.

Oil was black tar in filter which would mean that is what the rest of the oil looks like. You have likely overfilled it with oil since you didnt drain much out. if it is that nasty i would drain it. fill with 10w30 x 2 qts and 1 qt of atf and run it until hot then drain it again and re fill it. My guess is that this bike may have been lacking proper oil changes. Very likely has sludge build up in the pan and other areas. May want to pull off a valve / cam cover and take a peek.

 

[BP]

oh :sensored: me

"dummy with a wrench" is an appropriate title for this thread then...
there is no dipstick in my shop manual [pictured in first post] which is why I went for the bolt to the lower right from the filter, completely passing it over with my eyes

:sensored: :sensored: :sensored: :sensored: :sensored: :sensored:

well I guess next I will fill coolant and change oil again... it has been ran like that, about 15 minutes or ten miles, I hope I didn't burn up the water pump.
I did notice that the temp gauge didn't go up at all, until headed back towards the house but it was a cool and breezy night and I was going real easy...
though I attributed this to the 7volt regulator...

:rant: :rant:

so to be sure, my next moves are, in order, to
-fill the coolant
-run until hot
-drain the remaining old oil and the oil I added yesterday after being too dumb to frickin wrench properly
-run 2qts 10w-30 [synthetic] with atf until hot
-drain that oil
-change filter to a fresh one
-fresh oil

 

[BP]

backlander » Fri Jun 06, 2014 11:57 am[/url]":28ptttc0]
If that's the coolant drain, why is oil coming out of it ? Something bad wrong if that's oil in there. :headscratch:

I sure hope I was just too dumb to realize the difference, but it appeared quite thick...

thanks for all the advice everyone...

 

[BP]

I remove the false tank, and filled with distilled water at the radiatior.
GOOD news, the cooling system works; the pump is not fried; it gets hot, fan turns on, then cools down...

now I just need to (truly and actually) change the oil, and drain/fill the cooling system.

next project, I am to remove the rear wheel again to put the moly grease in the splines (what I neglected to do when replaced the tire,) and I will also then at this time change the gear oil of the rear drive.

the other next project is to install the 7v regulator to get the gauges work properly

I guess after that air filter needs replace... and I can't really think of anything else that I don't want to put off at least until next season. unless there is any suggestion of what to check on this motorcycle. previous owner had used as daily driver until the day I bought it [or at least I was dumb enough to believe him when he said that]

could have been pretty bad mistake... I got quite lucky...

I think what made the coolant appear such thick may have been some type of stop-leak but that is just speculation

 

[backlander]

Actually the drive shaft should be greased at the motor end also, which requires pulling the final drive, there are splines from the output gear shaft at the motor that connect to a u-joint on the motor end of the drive shaft. Of course that requires removal of the infamous circlip that holds it together, you got to have the right kind of circlip pliers to do it. It's a BEACH !!

 

[Steve83]

Actually, the 1200 does require lube on both driveshaft ends, but on the 1100 and 1000, the front of the shaft is held in place with a circlip and doesn't move, so no grease is required, only at the rear. There is a grease fitting on the final drive case to lube the rear drive shaft splines.

How long have you had the bike? You might want to consider replacing the timing belts, if you don't know their history.

 

[shierh]

your coolant looked like ATF based on color etc.

 

[joedrum]

sheesh mighty big oil change job :hihihi:

 

[AApple]

For those that may be a little confused about coolant color....this is the coolant I drained out of mine when I pulled the engine to replace the stator. As youse can see, it is also RED. Not all coolant/antifreeze is green. At one point the SAE specs for coolant included specific dyes for specific types of coolant....those specs have gone by the wayside these days, so you cannot go by the color to determine what type it is... :good:

GL5

• AApple
• May 6, 2012

Oil and coolant drained

I went back with "normal" colored coolant....as seen here from the dadblamed leak I had after doing the waterpump... :rant:

leak4

• AApple
• Jul 16, 2012

I KNEW this was gunna happen...

 

[dan filipi]

I have some 50/50 coolant that says for 'Asian vehicles' with no silicate, it is almost clear.

 

[shierh]

anything without silicate is fine. I got what ever I could find at NAPA and it was red.

 

[BP]

joedrum » Mon Jun 09, 2014 8:23 am[/url]":2pjncptt]
sheesh mighty big oil change job :hihihi:

you got it right.

I plan wednesday to do everything that needs to be done at the rear when its still all taken apart lube final drive splines and change the gear oil... I am unsure now whether to take the final drive apart and all of that. I will probably take it apart and pump grease in the fitting to see whether it really does go into the final drive splines at the wheel, and then manually clean and grease the splines this one time.

If you are talking about gl1100 Steve83 mine is 1982 I'm not sure if by cir-clip is the same thing as a snap-ring? but if you say I don't take it off then I won't take it off. Should I then take it apart from where the black meets the unpainted right there, and it also gets cleaned & moly grease?

I do want to replace the timing belt. next year :good:

 

[roncar]

I do want to replace the timing belt. next year :good:

If you don't know the history (age) of your timing belts, there is good reason NOT to put this off until next year. :shock:

 

[Steve83]

The grease fitting on the final drive is only to lube the drive shaft splines, it does not lube the splines on the wheel flange or drive hub. The only reason to remove the circlip/snap ring on the drive shaft would be to remove the swingarm/drive shaft, or the engine. The final drive can be removed leaving the swingarm and drive shaft in place. Check the manual for the proper tightening sequence of the bolts and axle nut when re-assembling the rear end. It's the best way to be sure things are aligned properly.