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M

Mike Smith

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 19, 2013
Messages
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Location
Boerne, Tx.
I have been having a bitch of as time with the Dynatek ignition system.
I installed new coils, wires and magnetic pickup module. After carefully installing everything I hit the starter button and the engine fired and died. Several attempts and nothing. Went over the wiring 6 times and couldnt find anything wrong. Called Larry at the customer support and he said I had to static time the module. So I bought a normally off continuity tester and went to work. I could not get the thing timed. Couldn't get continuity. I carefully set the timing mark in the window to F 1 and rotated the plate in both directions and I could not get continuity. Could be a bad module I guess.
Im no genius but I am an Air Conditioning tech and I know something about electrical and wiring. Anybody out there have any experience with this problem? I made the mistake of NOT ordering the module straight from the Dynatek. Got it on Ebay.
Please do not post a bunch of guesswork. Im done guessing what I have not correctly done for the past 4 days.
By the way the coil installation is a pain in the azz. It's a real good idea to replace the original weak ignition coils with better made coils from non OEM coils. The original Honda coils ohm out at over 13 ohms. The Honda resister ohm out at 3 ohms. The Dynatek coils ohm out at 3 ohms. Pricey at $125 for the pair they will not let you down on hot day when the temperature exceeds 100 degrees.
 
Continuity tester=test light?? I use a plain old 12v light. Plug it into the appropriate wire, blue or yellow, ground it, turn motor over until it lights. Any chance your plate is not getting grounded to the engine? I hope you have the newer version as the older DynaS had a lot of failures recently. Good how-to here:https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5720
 
FAILURES? Woe is me.. $125 mistake?
Im used to installing parts that work.
I checked the continuity from red to blue, and yellow to red. The circuit will be open normally. Closed circuit when the points close. So when the little magnet comes around to the correct position on the module then the circuit should close and I get continuity. I get nothing. Rotated the plate slowly. The plate will ground when held in tightly or screwed down.
I will call Dynatek Monday and keep I'll this going.
Since I have new coils and wiring I can easily go back to the points which are dead-on reliable.
I have considered putting an electric fuel pump on next. Considering a single carb perhaps. But I'm missing allot of riding days. Every day my riding buddy next door motors by my house on his 2013 Harley for his daily ride, he's almost 80 years old. He looks over and waves as he passes by... Fuel injection, electronic ignition, I miss my Victory Vegas.

Thanx for the support guys.
 
Good tips guys.
I will recheck every thing today. I will recheck for continuity like you suggested EK. If I get no results I will put the points back in.
One way or another I will make it run. The more I ride the thing the more I have found I like it.
I live 20 miles north of San Antonio in what's called The Hill Country. people from all over Texas will trailer their bikes or ride here for a weekend and ride all over the area. The road to the Hwy 10 from my house to is a roller coaster. 5 miles of up and down twists and turns. The 77 is enjoyable to ride. Smooth quiet an agile enough.
Predominately this is Harley Country. There must be at least one on every street parked in a garage. I would buy one but I just can't choke down the payment. Besides my wife deserve a new car at the same price as a HD and I have two boys that will soon go to college. My need come last. :cool:
Ride safe.
 
I kept points in my Kawasaki 750 just because they are reliable and can be cleaned enough on the road to get me home.
 
I put the points back in. Still wont start. I may have a bad condenser though. Seems Honda didn't want the thing to be easily removed. I guess the battery box will have to come out to get the two screws holding it in place out. I'm growing tired of this old girl. I statically time the bike to the best I can. I get frustrated. I work on it for a couple of hours then, she wont start then I go off and do something else. The point system is dead on reliable so I will leave it in. But the condenser is a weak link and I will relocate it for easier service. I'm frustrated with the motorcycle. Yes there is gas in the tank.
I'm at the point that when I get it up and running, it goes on Craigslist.
 
well they for sure can get under your skin ...Honda missed the set up bigtime around this motor they did so well with ...hope you just get it going and change of heart comes in play ....once you get a handle on one of these bikes they can be real sweet
 
Not sure if your trying to start it while troubleshooting but I'd pull the spark plugs and plug them back in and lay them in contact with metal to check for spark.
Could have a spark but not getting gas.
With plugs out a good time to check compression.
 
I pulled the #4 plug and tested for spark. She has a nice bright blue white spark.
I haven't got the hang of setting the advance perfectly. I should have marked it before I removed it. I carefully attempted to try to set the points assembly by the manual using the static method. I must be getting a bit senile or something.
When I hit the starter button she fires up for a second then nothing. She was running fine before I began this whole thing except when pulling hills at 70. There wasn't any power when I twisted the throttle. I assumed it was a weak coil. Idle was smooth and steady. Carbs are synced perfectly. Premium gas in the tank.
Can someone with a GL1000 please take a good picture of your points assembly and post it here? :cool:
 
Sounds like a classic ballast failure? Try by-passing the ballast to see if it runs. Don't leave it long like that if it does as it puts 12v instead of 7 v through the points.
 
Ballast, do you mean the condenser, aka capacitor?
I believe it has gone south. I'll stop by the Honda dealer tomorrow and pick one up. First I will check it with my meter.
Capacitors are rated in micro-fareds, which I have a multi meter that the setting. Any idea what is the correct number is? :cool:
 
Not capacitor, the ballast is a ceramic mounted unit which is bolted next to the coils. I believe there are black wires that connect to both ends. It's job is to reduce voltage to points, and coils??? It runs through the starter button so when starting tge bike everything gets 12+v, but as soon as you release the button, it sends the current through the ballast. If yours starts for a second, but dies when you let off the button, this is likely why. To test, simply pull the two wires off the ballast and connect them to each other. I'll find a pic.
 
image.jpg
 

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