Engine powerless when heat up

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+1 on what mwbill said. Could be the valve adjustment or it might just be the octane rating on the gasoline your running. I'd try to find a station that sells non-ethanol gas and jump up to a higher octane fuel. Might eliminate your pinging noise.
 
"Pinging" I usually associate with low octane gas when the engine is under a load.
Mine will ping a little when the engine is hot and I accelerate loading the engine, just like the older cars would do.

Try running 8 oz. of atf to a full tank of gas. Could also try running some higher octane fuel.
 
time to go after iggy to get it firing good ...i bet the pinging will stop ...dang fuel itself causes more heat to begin with weak ignition even more so ...is my guess

okay everybody jump on one legg :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:
 
pinging is preignition. Oil viscosity has nothing to do with it. It may be a result of the gas or higher temps or it may be the ignition advance is in need of attention. The 1100s have both mechanical and vacuum advance in the ignition.
 
slabghost":3t61n8k0 said:
pinging is preignition. Oil viscosity has nothing to do with it. It may be a result of the gas or higher temps or it may be the ignition advance is in need of attention. The 1100s have both mechanical and vacuum advance in the ignition.
That's what I think.

Higher octane might help make a difference, but I think the problem is going to be in the ignition advance. Probably stuck.
 
first thing is 1100s have raer ignition right on the bacl of the motor ..the worst spot ever really ...from the carbs there a vacume line that gose to the rear ignition vacume canister looking thimg ....pull that line off the carbs and sudk on the end of it and feel for the movememt of the ignition plate ...when you quit sucking it sould move back ....if all that is happening your okay back there ....if you feel nothing when sucking on it ....next move is to plug the vacume from carb with small hose and plug so it dont leak and ride it ....then report here how it runs .....
 
Joedrum thanks for your reply.
First test:
joedrum":9wh53zgc said:
pull that line off the carbs and sudk on the end of it and feel for the movememt of the ignition plate ...when you quit sucking it sould move back ....if all that is happening your okay back there ....
On this test I feel nothing. I was expecting something like a diaphragm moving but no. I turned on the bike and put my thumb finger on the line that comes from the carbs. but I don't feel any vacuum. It supposed to be a strong vacuum? Something like 5-10 inHg ?
 
sorry to see that this rear ignition is stuck ...this is surely what is making it ping ....now its time to work on the bike ...sheeeesh ..the enterprise is a nive bike im sure ....it time now to pat the price a little ....to put it bluntly the whole rear of the bike must come off ....it probably has some stuck rusted bolts other fustraiting things.....but its really not to bad and a great get to know your bike course .......hopefully you got a place inside a garage to work on it ...i will talk like you do ....put the bike in the garage and point the exhast heading out the door ...put on centerstand ...take seat.... side cover off .....take trunk off ...take rear fender off ...all along the way put bolts back in holes when can helps not loose them also clean all bolts nuts up along the way till they work good by hand or the best you can get them .....once thats done you can take axcle nut off rear wheel ...brake and all loose not lines ...then the three nuts that hold the finaldrive and wheel on ....now get the wheel off with out knocking bike over you can go to thread the mongrel is getting a 1200motor put in and there pics of me doing a rear end strip job look it over i do it all the time on various projects it just pays to dive into old bike new to you ....for me anyway ......im not going on and on ..the ideal is to get to the rear ignition withou tearing anythinup along the way even battery box have to be loosen ...personaly i have big hands and need everything out of the way ..there are other here who seem to get at things i couldnt do ever....thats enough to try and get ..

OH BY THE WAY CHECK AND SEE FOR SURE THAT THE HOSE THE VACUME IS RUNNING THROUGH IS GOOD FIRST TIME TO REALY LOOK IT OVER ...THERE SOULD BE VACUME AT THE CARBS FOR SURE ...IF NOT THERE COULD BE SOME CARB ISSUES TOO ....THIS SOUNDS LIKE A GOOD BIKE just need brought up to par :builder: :mrgreen:
 
First of all, thanks scdmarx for the info about the pulse generator/ignition.

Second, joedrum, you gonna kill me :Doh2: I checked the wrong line. The one that you mention comes from carb #3. I disconnected and made the test you suggest me. When I suck I heard a "click" coming from the ignition plate. When I stop there's a "click" back. I presume that the everything is OK.

I wired the fan with a switch just to check if my problem is due overheating. Using the switch I occasionally turn on the fan just to keep the machine always at 25% of the temp gauge. I noticed that even keeping the machine at that range, I got the powerless at low rpm and like a "misfire". <== (I'm not sure if that is a correct word. That's the only Google translate gave me.) So my problem is not overheating. I wrongly associate the powerless effect and the misfire with the engine heat.

It's more noticeable when the machine is at low rpm. If I throttle the machine over 3,200 it's not noticeable. So I can't have smooth acceleration and shifting because this misfire. Yesterday I remove the top cap of carb #4 just to see the condition and it was a mess. I think that my carbs needs to be reconditioned.

Guys, thanks for your help and patience with my case.

God bless you all.
 
This will be my next step:

mcgovern61":2y9lqg0c said:
Take the carbs off........soak them in a mixture of 50% Pine Sol and 50% water! (I hear that works great for cleaning them out!)

I'll buy a carb repair kit and do what brother mcgovern61 suggest. Since i have this bike I am not satisfied with the behavior and performance of the carbs.
 
okay ...carb removal id say is next thing to do ...being your bike is an 83 it is a little easier or a lot easier to deal with than 80 -81 modles .....it very likely that the intake running bolts are corroded stuck ...these bolts are 10mm ...you sould use close in wrench 6 point if you have it and lightly tap the wrench as soon as it starts to move stop and go to the next bolt and so on ..then to other side of bike be careful sometimes these intake bolts corrode and the tapping breaks this up and releases pressure on the bolts for next tap ..these souldnt be real tight but it amazing how many of them are tighten way to much ...after this loosen all intake runner clamps at carbs loosen all the way but not apart...next thing to do is open false tank lid and take air box out ,,,after that choke cable ...access right side where carb linkaged is at also ...then it the throttle cable ...here you want to maybe finish taking 10mm bolts out of the intake runners to heads and move carbs some towards left side to get at cables ...if your lucky the cable have been ran outside the frame and it provides easy access ..from factory there not like that and rather hard to unhook ..for ham fisted guys like me ....once cables are off the carbs are ready to come out ...turn the elbows on the right side pointing up and carbs set down ..other side to probably and sart trying to get carbs out the left side ......of course this is after engine guards and lowers are all gone all stuff that prevents them from coming out the left side
 
joedrum":31g83dkk said:
okay ...carb removal id say is next thing to do ...being your bike is an 83 it is a little easier or a lot easier to deal with than 80 -81 modles .....it very likely that the intake running bolts are corroded stuck ...these bolts are 10mm ...you sould use close in wrench 6 point if you have it and lightly tap the wrench as soon as it starts to move stop and go to the next bolt and so on ..then to other side of bike be careful sometimes these intake bolts corrode and the tapping breaks this up and releases pressure on the bolts for next tap ..these souldnt be real tight but it amazing how many of them are tighten way to much ...after this loosen all intake runner clamps at carbs loosen all the way but not apart...next thing to do is open false tank lid and take air box out ,,,after that choke cable ...access right side where carb linkaged is at also ...then it the throttle cable ...here you want to maybe finish taking 10mm bolts out of the intake runners to heads and move carbs some towards left side to get at cables ...if your lucky the cable have been ran outside the frame and it provides easy access ..from factory there not like that and rather hard to unhook ..for ham fisted guys like me ....once cables are off the carbs are ready to come out ...turn the elbows on the right side pointing up and carbs set down ..other side to probably and sart trying to get carbs out the left side ......of course this is after engine guards and lowers are all gone all stuff that prevents them from coming out the left side

Nice explanation bud. :eek:k: Thanks for the hints. Tomorrow will place the order for the kits, hope they arrive by next Saturday. :beg:
 

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