Exhaust rust and mild exhaust leaks at joints

[slabghost]

:good: yep! :good: What he said! k:

 

[simbaboy]

Some guy is selling his 83 GL1100 side covers, both fenders and tank covers for $100. I told him I will get them this evening. I hope they fit my 82GL1100.

All of these items will fit your '82!

Thanks everybody. YES --the side covers fit exactly. In fact the ones I got were in much better condition then what I thought from the CL pictures. The guy turned out to be nice: he has a 83 GL1100.
I am sure the fenders and tank cover will also fit. The reason I got these is so I can start painting and curing while continuing to ride and getting the mechanicals taken care off.

I picked up an oil filter and will pick up some oil tomorrow (any recommendations?). Since I will be changing the oil again in a few hundred miles I will probably not get synthetic. The guy from whom I got the extra parts from said for his 83GL1100 he changes oil every 3Kmiles or when the shifting gets a little weird: this gives me further hope that my clutch issue (which has already improved a 100%) will get even better with an oil change.

I am thinking of going with bright yellow color (to kind of look like modern Goldwings). Any suggestions? I found this pix on the web someplace--very sweet. I would like something similar. But I will leave the gold wing emblems on and paint those golden with a fine tip brush.

Thanks,
Simba

 

[Winger 82]

I like it, maybe not for a long ride but toolin around town OOOOH :music: :music: :music:

 

[mcgovern61]

I am thinking of going with bright yellow color (to kind of look like modern Goldwings). Any suggestions? I found this pix on the web someplace--very sweet. I would like something similar. But I will leave the gold wing emblems on and paint those golden with a fine tip brush.

Thanks,
Simba

I think we can help ya there....might even know the owner of that Yellow '83 1100:
viewtopic.php?p=35269#p35269 :hihihi:

 

[dan filipi]

I knew that yellow bike looked familiar.
Funny how things come around.

 

[simbaboy]

I am thinking of going with bright yellow color (to kind of look like modern Goldwings). Any suggestions? I found this pix on the web someplace--very sweet. I would like something similar. But I will leave the gold wing emblems on and paint those golden with a fine tip brush.

Thanks,
Simba

I think we can help ya there....might even know the owner of that Yellow '83 1100:
viewtopic.php?p=35269#p35269 :hihihi:

ha, ha I guess I found it right here.
Thanks-- I have to ask him what paint/technique he used.
thanks,
Simba

 

[slabghost]

If you have a paint gun Tractor Supply sells paint.New Holland yellow is a bit brighter than that in the picture. I recommend you use the hardener with it but 1 qt of paint is more than you'll need. Preparation is everything to get the best finish.

 

[simbaboy]

If you have a paint gun Tractor Supply sells paint.New Holland yellow is a bit brighter than that in the picture. I recommend you use the hardener with it but 1 qt of paint is more than you'll need. Preparation is everything to get the best finish.

Thanks
I plan to go to Walmart and see my choices in Rustoleum spray can---they have a bright yellow for automotive use that I am thinking about. May even do Black and Silver two tone---that would also be cool and Raider tough (NOT)
Simba

 

[Winger 82]

I like it, maybe not for a long ride but toolin around town OOOOH :music: :music: :music:

Not real sure why this got posted here?? was posting on another thread

 

[woodrock]

There is a common wobble on these bikes once the front tire get's worn to a point, some bikes worse than others and some not at all. It happens during deceleration between 45 and 30 mph. Usually wobble won't come on as long as you have your hands on the bars.

[/quote]

Had this wobble on my '80 1100i. The cure was new steering head bearings. I could tell they were shot - the steering was notchy as you turned the handlebars from lock to lock. No more wobble after they were replaced, and as an added bonus the slow speed handling was greatly improved.

 

[simbaboy]

There is a common wobble on these bikes once the front tire get's worn to a point, some bikes worse than others and some not at all. It happens during deceleration between 45 and 30 mph. Usually wobble won't come on as long as you have your hands on the bars.

Had this wobble on my '80 1100i. The cure was new steering head bearings. I could tell they were shot - the steering was notchy as you turned the handlebars from lock to lock. No more wobble after they were replaced, and as an added bonus the slow speed handling was greatly improved.[/quote]

Thanks---I am hoping its something simple. The wobble is very slight and only at low speeds.

Okay--this GL1100 is my 4th motorcycle in about a year. I know its not a sports cruiser or anything like that, but it has very little lean angle. I am scraping my pegs at hardly any kind of speed when turning. Noway I could do the Dragon with this-not that I would want to. I am thinking PO may have lowered the bike: or maybe I need to adjust the shocks or tire pressure?? Do you guys have any ideas?

I love this bike in all ways. I have started priming and painting the side covers and fenders. For the exhaust rust I may use Rusto-leum etching primer and flat black BBQ paint. We will see.

Thanks,
Simba

 

[dan filipi]

If your rear shocks are down on air it will sit low.
How does it sit while on the side stand on level ground, leaning or close to vertical?
Close to vertical is low shocks usually.

As for front same thing or PO might have moved the forks up in the tree which will lower it.

 

[bigred2012]

"I am scraping my pegs at hardly any kind of speed when turning"

I am finding that out as well. I was wondering if I could raise the pegs? And if that would take care of the problem?

 

[simbaboy]

If your rear shocks are down on air it will sit low.
How does it sit while on the side stand on level ground, leaning or close to vertical?
Close to vertical is low shocks usually.

As for front same thing or PO might have moved the forks up in the tree which will lower it.

Thanks, it hardly leans over when on the side stand--that might be the answer. The bike is going in to the mechanic for full tune up, timing belt,etc. I will have him check and add fork oil/air as needed. I will be without the bike for a week. All the maintenance in the future will be done by myself (ok, not all---I know my limitations). i don't know the first thing about carb sync and don't have the tools. Let him do some stuff so if I have big issues in the future he can take care of them. Gotta feed him too!

Priming and painting has been a little frustrating as I have lost my mojo (too much rush). My wife keeps telling me I need to spend several days painting not try to get it all done in 3-4 hours. So I am back to sanding to correct my mistakes. Patience and one atomic layer at a time, IDIOT.

I just came back from a ride. The bike is performing incredibly well on straight aways and I am adjusting to the low lean angles. What a terrific buy for $270. Once the bike is back and I have the cosmetics done I will post my pictures.

Thanks all,
Simba

 

[mcgovern61]

Looking at the picture...there is no air in your back shocks! Put up to 52 lbs in (via a hand pump only!) and the rear will come up at least 2 more inches if not more! The fill for the shocks is on the right side. Take off the right side cover (just pry very gently) and you will see a shrader valve down towards the bottom. Give it a shot...you might be pleasantly surprised!

 

[simbaboy]

Looking at the picture...there is no air in your back shocks! Put up to 52 lbs in (via a hand pump only!) and the rear will come up at least 2 more inches if not more! The fill for the shocks is on the right side. Take off the right side cover (just pry very gently) and you will see a shrader valve down towards the bottom. Give it a shot...you might be pleasantly surprised!

Excellent and thank you very much. I will definitely do that and report back in a few days after I get the bike back.
All of you have been awesome with suggestions and kind words. Very nice.

Thanks
Simba

 

[simbaboy]

Hello Everybody,

Okay, I gave the bike to my mechanic and got it back.
1. Air in the shocks have dramatically improved the ride and lean angles.
2. Shifting has improved quite a bit more since the purchase and oil change. I still have to turn off the bike before I can get it into neutral. Impossible to find neutral while motor is running.
3. I used Rust-Oleum rust reformer and BBQ paint on the pipes. I also patched the minor leak in the exhaust using patching stuff from the Auto Zone. No more leak. I am not sure how long the patch or paint will last, but the bike is running well and quite.

Check out my paint booth and drying station. I am going to re-gold paint the cover emblems and place them back on the bike.

The bike looks okay from about 10ft away. Its my bike and I can cry if I want to.
Now I can start researching adding turn signals and running lights. I will take any suggestions on universal 2-3 wire turn lights and ?8mm thread for the front turn signals.

Thanks
Simba

 

[dan filipi]

The yellow and flat black look great!

Give the finding neutral some time.
Miles on the clutch along with oil changes might fix it.

I have found one way to make it easier is while it's idling, with a quick action let the clutch out and pull it back in while pulling up into neutral.

If it does not improve and the clutch is adjusted properly..........
Not sure I mentioned this yet but I had a problem awhile back where shifting was very difficult, forget about getting it into neutral.
What was happening was too much oil was around the clutch plates making it hydraulically put pressure on the gears.
I found the scavenger pump was clogged preventing it from removing excess oil from the clutch area.
How I found this out was when I removed the rear clutch cover almost a quart of oil drained out and once that oil was out it shifted beautifully.
Funny thing would happen. I'd drain the oil then go for a ride. Amazing how easy it shifted but after a couple miles shifting would get very hard so oil would get collected back there and jamb up the gears.

After cleaning that pump I've been a happy camper.

 

[simbaboy]

The yellow and flat black look great!

Give the finding neutral some time.
Miles on the clutch along with oil changes might fix it.

I have found one way to make it easier is while it's idling, with a quick action let the clutch out and pull it back in while pulling up into neutral.

If it does not improve and the clutch is adjusted properly..........
Not sure I mentioned this yet but I had a problem awhile back where shifting was very difficult, forget about getting it into neutral.
What was happening was too much oil was around the clutch plates making it hydraulically put pressure on the gears.
I found the scavenger pump was clogged preventing it from removing excess oil from the clutch area.
How I found this out was when I removed the rear clutch cover almost a quart of oil drained out and once that oil was out it shifted beautifully.
Funny thing would happen. I'd drain the oil then go for a ride. Amazing how easy it shifted but after a couple miles shifting would get very hard so oil would get collected back there and jamb up the gears.

After cleaning that pump I've been a happy camper.

Thanks Dan, Great suggestion on the scavanger pump. I appreciate all the help and advice I have been getting. You all are awesome. Go Lions.

Simba

 

[mcgovern61]

Here is the thread on the scavenger pump:

viewtopic.php?p=757#p757