Fake tank cover(coil/water pump and stator testing)

[Steve83]

Put it in 5th gear and have someone step on the brake pedal while you tighten the bolt. The manual says 62 Ft.-Lbs. of torque.

 

[1burthabutt]

joedrum » Tue Jun 11, 2013 7:39 pm[/url]":t6h7is9r]its not easy but mot hard either ......try bump wrench with plastic hammer or real hammer to get it to creep tight :builder:

??????????? It keeps turning the engine over. Guess we plain just don't understand. This ain't no chevy engine and we are lost.

 

[1burthabutt]

:thanks: Gonna go try that now!

 

[1burthabutt]

Welp stator bolt is tight. Guess that wasn't the reason for our knocking. :Awe: I sure don't want to pull her heart out and do surgery on her.

Freebird wants to know if it could be a fuel issue causing the knock? She does sputter a little and is sluggish.

 

[backlander]

I went back to the start of this thread and read where freebird got a water pump for it. Couple of questions: Is it overheating, is it leaking, have you listened for the knocking near the front trans cover where the lower radiator hose connects to the engine. Sometimes those water pumps knock the bearings out of the shaft and lets the shaft and impeller wobble and get into the side of the trans cover. Just a thought. You might be picking up a knock from the shaft bouncing against the interior of the water pump.

 

[1burthabutt]

:head bang: Oh brother here we go! I asked him if he listened to her BEFORE he drained all the oil out! NO he didn't!!!!!
He hasn't worked on the water pump on the bike OR my Tahoe.
What would make the oil light flicker when stopped at a stoplight/stop sign when it is full of oil? I guess he figures it is in the motor and that's why he drained the oil.
If its the water pump getting into things...oh boy it means we have some work to do huh?
BTW I am thinking I owe some of you a cup of coffee and a good dessert if ya show up here!

 

[backlander]

:smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: I don't mean to add to your troubles, honest. It's very easy to check the water pump, just take out the two bolts that hold the lower radiator hose connection cover off and if you look in that opening you will see the impeller. Take a finger or two and see if the impeller moves any at all from side to side and top to bottom. If it moves then at least one set of water pump shaft bearings have probably come apart. Usually it's the front set. I forgot,drain the coolant out first. :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:

 

[1burthabutt]

backlander » Tue Jun 11, 2013 8:26 pm[/url]":1fq1ip51]:smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: I don't mean to add to your troubles, honest. It's very easy to check the water pump, just take out the two bolts that hold the lower radiator hose connection cover off and if you look in that opening you will see the impeller. Take a finger or two and see if the impeller moves any at all from side to side and top to bottom. If it moves then at least one set of water pump shaft bearings have probably come apart. Usually it's the front set. I forgot,drain the coolant out first. :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:

I am trying to talk him into looking at it tonight. We will see if momma wins. I hate going to bed not knowing what is wrong with his 2nd mistress. I just want to get her fixed so we can go riding with the daughter if she wants or by ourselves. Who would have guessed I would love riding this much!
Yeah he just went out the door! Will keep you informed. I gotta go check myself :mrgreen:

 

[1burthabutt]

:clapping: :clapping: :clapping: Backlander you are da man!!!! There is a slight wiggle to it. Got down on all fours to check myself. The water pump seal kit Freebird bought doesn't have bearings with it, just o'rings etc. Do you have any idea where to get them fast?
Nobody has answered my question about the stator wiring or what the stator is yet. :?

 

[mcgovern61]

1burthabutt » Tue Jun 11, 2013 7:42 pm[/url]":36z9b6yw]:shock: I just found an article on the stator wires by the battery! Our bike still has the wires plugged in. Why do we need to solder them? What happens if it isn't done? etc.

Be careful......it melts the seat!!! :shock:

(Just kidding....couldn't help myself :hihihi: :doh: )

 

[Omega Man]

1burthabutt » Tue Jun 11, 2013 5:42 pm[/url]":1saavcc4]:shock: I just found an article on the stator wires by the battery! Our bike still has the wires plugged in. Why do we need to solder them? What happens if it isn't done? etc.

The plug melts and shorts out the stator requiring the engine to come out to replace. Solder each wire separately to it's mate. Do one at a time so you don't get them mixed up.

~O~

 

[1burthabutt]

Okay I am familiar with car motors and I should be familiar with bikes, however I was in my teens when my parents owned a bike shop that sold the S****I ones. I don't know what a stator is! Can someone please tell me what it is or does. I know it is no excuse I was in my teens and it was in the 70's sooooo. lol :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: I just want to tell Freebird something for a change :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

 

[mcgovern61]

1burthabutt » Tue Jun 11, 2013 9:27 pm[/url]":23hfxrz1] Okay I am familiar with car motors and I should be familiar with bikes, however I was in my teens when my parents owned a bike shop that sold the S****I ones. I don't know what a stator is! Can someone please tell me what it is or does. I know it is no excuse I was in my teens and it was in the 70's sooooo. lol :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: I just want to tell Freebird something for a change :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

The stator is the rotating part that is the equivalent to an alternator. It is mounted inside on the engine on the left side at the rear just in front of the battery. The three yellow wires coming out of that location have a 3 wire white plug connector that usually overheats and melts the wires inside of the connector from poor connections. Cutting out the connector and soldering the three wires together is a permanent fix.

Take a look at the picture here. It is the round area on the back with the black wire hanging out on the upper left side of the picture.

 

[backlander]

:smilie_happy: Don't get all giddy yet, even though it has movement doesn't necessarily mean that it is moving enough to be the source of the knocking noise, but it could be. It obviously needs replacing. What is the brand and Part # on your O-ring kit and where did you get it and how many O-rings are in it if you can tell without opening the package. Most people buy OEM pumps instead of rebuilding their own and the estimated cost of replacing the pump with all gaskets,seals and o-rings is around 175.00 dollars. You can attempt to rebuild your own pump but you won't save to much money and it's a toss up if it will hold up depending on the mechanical skills of the rebuilder. If you decide you want to try and rebuild your own, let me know and I'll gather up the part #'s for ya'll and the sources I used when I did mine.

 

[1burthabutt]

Thanks Backlander! Kev is pretty good with a wrench. He keeps the UMP dirt modified going when we have the money to fill the motorhome to drag her down the road. I think he might want to try the rebuild his self. If you get the time to get the part #'s we would appreciate it. Even if it is not the knocking I believe it needs to be fixed before it leads to more problems. You know an ounce of maintenance is worth a pound of cure.

 

[backlander]

That's cool, I'm an old dirt tracker myself, i used to run late model. I'll get the numbers together and get back to you.

 

[Ansimp]

mcgovern61 » Wed Jun 12, 2013 12:31 pm[/url]":32hgywy6]

1burthabutt » Tue Jun 11, 2013 9:27 pm[/url]":32hgywy6] Okay I am familiar with car motors and I should be familiar with bikes, however I was in my teens when my parents owned a bike shop that sold the S****I ones. I don't know what a stator is! Can someone please tell me what it is or does. I know it is no excuse I was in my teens and it was in the 70's sooooo. lol :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: I just want to tell Freebird something for a change :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

The stator is the rotating part that is the equivalent to an alternator. It is mounted inside on the engine on the left side at the rear just in front of the battery. The three yellow wires coming out of that location have a 3 wire white plug connector that usually overheats and melts the wires inside of the connector from poor connections. Cutting out the connector and soldering the three wires together is a permanent fix.



Take a look at the picture here. It is the round area on the back with the black wire hanging out on the upper left side of the picture.

Sorry McGovern but the stator is the fixed part that doesn't rotate and has 3 phases of copper windings in it and this is the same on an automotive alternator. The rotor ( rotation) is the part that rotates and has a magnetic field in it that produces electricity by inducing that magnetism through the stator windings. The rotor on most motorcycles is permanent magnets on most cars it is a winding that requires power through the slip rings to produce the magnetic field in the rotor.

The stator cannot short out through the plug and burn itself out. It can only short internally through the windings to ground or another phase, it can also fatigue and break a winding which loses a phase and give low voltage out put ( some charging but usually about 0.6 of a volt less than normal. Shorting through the plug reduces the output in a similar way but most times the heat and loss of out put is due to high resistance joints ( bad connections). I have rebuilt hundreds of alternators and have only had to replace a few stators, plenty of rectifiers but hardly any stators.

 

[backlander]

Here's the water pump gasket kit I used, has everything in it. georgefix is a great seller and doesn't rip you off on shipping, quick shipper too.https://www.ebay.com/itm/GL1000-GL1100-G ... f7&vxp=mtr

If your pump has a bakelite impeller, they become brittle, crack and are easily broken when disassembling. Hopefully you have the metal impeller.

Now you need two pump shaft bearings, sealed both sides, the crossover part # SKF 60002RSJEM The dimensions on the bearings are OD=26 MM ID=10 MM W=8 MM. The ceramic seal is not available from Honda that I can find but is available separate from Germany here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Goldwing- ... 1e797898e8

Watep pump rebuild kit with both bearings, ceramic seal and two o-rings is available only from Germany, This is where I got mine, takes a couple weeks for it to get here. One of the reasons I ask if you had a bakelite or metal impeller is because the kits are different. The one for metal impeller is: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-pump-rebu ... 97898dfThe one for bakelite impeller is: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-pump-rebu ... 1e797898e1

 

[backlander]

I gathered this up for ya'll to read while your waiting on parts, it's one excellent source of information on working on the front of a flat four Honda.https://forum.classicgoldwings.com/viewt ... f=23&t=257

 

[toytender01]

When new the stator plug is white. If there are darke spots it means it has been overheating. Cutting out the plug and soldering the wires eliminates the heating problem.