Finally a GL-1200 owner...

[DaveKamp]

Oh, and some other comments:

While the 'integrated braking' works nicely on concrete and asphalt... I don't like it one bit on gravel.

See, I gotta drive a mile on gravel every morning and night, and they just added a mess'a gravel to my road. I'm very used to using front brakes... my CX500D has a GL1000 front end with dual brakes and a master cylinder from a CB900 (I think... it's been a long time). Not uncommon for me to stop it totally on front brake, and have an inch of daylight beneath the rear tire... so I'm not the rider who lives, and crashes, by only the rear brake.

In this case, though, when I'm slowing to turn on the gravel road, using the rear brake causes the front caliper to demand traction from the front tire, which on gravel, means no steering.

SO... if anyone here has done a brake de-integration conversion, please let me know. I don't need integrated braking to keep me safe, and I'm equipped with anti-lock braking, traction control, and dynamic stability control by virtue of the grey stuff located midway between my earlobes... having some machine try to 'do it for me', is inherently dangerous...

:music2:

 

[brianinpa]

De-linking the brakes shouldn't be too difficult. You just need to plug the line from the rear master cylinder going to the front rotor, and then slit (edit - SPLIT) the front brakeline to go to both calipers.

 

[Ansimp]

I have the same issue with the Honda Linked brake systems due to the Dreaded Driveway. I use my rear brake as traction control so I cannot afford any front braking at the same time. The later model CBR1000Fs have a beautiful linked braking system (very complex with lots of extra plumbing) but would not serve my purpose on our dirt driveway. I actually found it interesting when I rode the
BMWr1200gs Down the DD that it didn't like my normal technique of applying the rear brake without pulling the clutch to slow down the bike. Luckily it has abs so you can just apply the rear brake while free wheeling without locking up the rear wheel.

 

[slabghost]

My self canceling signal solenoid is an idiot too. I've just been slow to disconnect it. I'm used to being the one to cancel it anyway.

 

[desertrefugee]

Nice dialog detailing observations and conditions. Sounds like you'll do fine with it - and fit in pretty well around these parts, too. The self-cancelling signals was one of my favorite features of my '84. 'Twas the only bike I ever had with it. And, boy, do I need it. I have some sort of predisposition for forgetting to cancel them "the old-fashioned way".

Interesting notion on defeating the linked brakes. Before splitting off the front master, it would be worth verifying that it can supply sufficient pressure for two calipers. I don't see why it wouldn't, but I'd hope someone here can verify there won't be any surprises. Like needing a Dwayne Johnson-type squeeze to get good brake action.

 

[slabghost]

I wonder if you could just insert a line lock on that one brake line to preclude it's use on the gravel and allow it's use otherwise?

 

[Denver]

The thread size is, M10 X 1.0. Available at most any parts store. A lot of cars use the same thread for their brake systems, it seems as if the plugs are common, as well as inexpensive.

 

[JoeBarTeam]

Welcome to oldwings
I've already changed allmost every bulb to led on my 86 aspy and back to oem bulb in the trunk. The control light told me my trunk bulbes were ooo (out of order) cause leds pull not enough elec. power for the system. If you've the same will proceed equal. Leds are good for many lights and our oldwings alternators could rest longer. The po hadn't done it with leds so i had to renew the alternator. It played walking dead eating the battery power till it once stoped my oldwing 15 min from home, just half a year after changing head gaskets. So now i've had the classic issues people tell 1200 oldwings have. It should keep calm next 31 years
Greez
Joebarteam

 

[slabghost]

Something like this.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Line-lock-heavy ... 2461444944
Maybe it would be dual purpose to block wheel activation to the front or lock it for parking on inclines.

 

[DaveKamp]

Linelock valving the integrated feature is an interesting idea.

Providing enough PRESSURE for two isn't the issue- it's VOLUME. When running two calipers off of one master cylinder, the master-to-slave surface area ratio is effectively half, which means it requires twice as much volume to resuilt in the same caliper STROKE, which is usually accomodated by having a larger diameter master cylinder piston. When I converted the CX500, I used the GL1000 front calipers and discs (in a Comstar wheel), and went to a front wheel cylinder that had an equivalent bore to what would've been used on dual front calipers.

I suspect that plugging the unused port on the rear wheel would cause the opposite issue- excessive voluem, insufficient pressure resulting from too large a bore surface, however, considering it's my foot on the pedal, probably just make it feel a bit firm.

I'll keep thinkin' about it...

The turn signals... wacky as heck, driving down the road, not having used the signals in miles, and the lefthand grip is clicking away like a psycho killer with an empty pistol. I likely won't have problems forgetting to cancel my own signals... one of my favorite modifications is to add a turn signal beeper and oil pressure beeper to the signal lamp circuits... everyone around me will know that the signal is working, but hey... I don't have loud pipes to save my life, so the turn signal indicator should give'em a clue, right?

Yeah, running lower current LEDs in the turn sig positions DOES tend to cause problems with the flasher circuit- the old-time circuits are bimetallic thermal-switch operated... lamp current passes through a bimetallic strip, which after a short time bends away, opening contacts, then it cools, touching contacts, lather, rinse, and repeat. Newer electronic flashers SOMETIMES solve this. I'll add a connector for trailer lights too, so I'll be nose-buried in the diagrams, with my soldering gun, shrink-wrap, and Scotch Super 88 electrical tape in-hand.

Speaking of which, I have an idea for another thing I may change-
The headlamp. As I understand, it's an H4 element.

I'm probably gonna get an LED replacement for it, should cut the current draw down by about 60% or more, but yield the same output, and at less heat...

But what I'm really considering, is dismantling the left hand switch housing, cleaning it all out, and then modifying the HI-LO beam switch, and adding a center detent that energizes BOTH segments (used to be 'filaments') to get both on at the same time. I've found that doing so with the H4 lamp yields excellent illumination pattern for areas where there's a high likelyhood of coyotes or deer prancing across the road. I hate to admit reality in today's world, but my eyesight isn't what it was when I was 23, so getting a consistent illumination of the roadway ahead is important. Using just high-beam does the distance, but I lose clarity of the actual road surface, which is rather important.

As for case-guard driving lights, that's more for giving me close in flood of the area where I"m negotiating a turn, and I'd probably figure out a way to trigger them for an appropriate right or left turn.

In addition to making the trunk reflectors also into running lamps, I'm going to add very discrete illuminating points (meaning, not huge chromed mongrels, but rather, basically invisible during the daytime) to places on the sides so that I'm not easily lost in night traffic. Reflectors work well when you're in someone's headlights, but if you're coming in, and not into their beams YET, they don't see you.

Anybody modified the shift lever, or relocated the pegs, to provide better foot-clearance from the left cylinder bank? I like floorboards, but the heel-toe shifters I've used weren't very 'crisp' in operation... on my CX, I have Markland footboards, but the stock shifter, re-shaped to sit higher above the floorboard...

 

[slabghost]

You have some great ideas here. I'd be very interested in following how you implement them. I'm not aware of shifter mods beyond adding heel toe with boards. Those have varied some. I'm sure they can be adapted to any position you like with a little adaptation of parts. Perhaps some parts from other makes or models. If you start a thread on the modification you want. Folks here will be happy to help with ideas and experience.

 

[slabghost]

Another line lock option just a bit less expensive.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LarryBs-Trailer ... F-&vxp=mtr

 

[DaveKamp]

Yes, I've been rotating the tires quite a bit lately... 50 mile round-trip to work through bettern' half the time I'm home... and running errands all around town, dropping off and picking up kids... I had her on a trailer up to Minnesota, and went on a day cruise around Lake Pepin, then back on the trailer to come home (had other things that I needed to haul, and a bit too big/heavy to fit in the saddlebags hence the trailer)...

I think I've got probably 3500 more miles on the clock now.

In general, I really like the 1200, and after years of thinking they looked heavy and cumbersome, it's clear that my visual impressions were entirely fooled. They're not quite as nimble as my CX500 (with GL1000 front end), and of course, they don't have quite-enough ground clearance for that curb I drove over yesterday (but the exhaust appears to be okay).

It's thirsty, probably because I've got an enthusiastic wrist. I imagine that driving with the enrichener out a smidge probably doesn't help, but I use expensive fuel, and change it regularly, so if there's residue in there, I'll get it washed out eventually. I've considered putting a big ball-bearing or two in the tank, to roll around just to help knock loose any old crud that may be in there... an in-line filter would probably be wise, too, but I have been two busy modulating the handlebars.

Stereo just ain't workin', so I pulled the head out. Found a cheap media player that will probably fit the hole just as well... and I think it has enough power so that I can just bypass and nix the OEM amplifier. Handlebar controls won't interface, so I'll live without that luxury. The left-hand lower panel will probably go at the same time, dunno what else in there is unnecessary, but I think a bicycle water-bottle cage will fit nicely there... I need a cupholder.

Turn signal cancelling is still an annoying PITA... I'll open that thing, find the solenoid, and wire cutters to the rescue.

I can see how some people like the big LCD display... but personally, I just like ordinary analog gauges with numbers. A numeric digital tachometer makes very little sense to me.. and while the temp gauge is incremented blocks, it doesn't indicate numeric temperature, which seems silly... so here'a guy with an Aspencade, that wishes he had an Interstate gauge cluster... <shrug>.

Wind coverage is almost excellent. Dunno wether my windscreen is stock, but it needs another inch to keep from buffeting my helmet around. Without helmet (ahem), it's perfect- just flits my grey hair around a little bit, but with it, the bucket rattles my neck around enough to be uncomfortable for long rides. I think I've found a taller one new in box secondhand, I'll report more later.

I like the powerplant and driveline. Irimajiri-san and his successor teams did an excellent job making it smooth and tractible. When all four hit solid, it sounds good, even though it's very quiet. I do hear what sounds/feels like gear whine 'after' the shift selection (it doesn't change pitch with shifting). I suspect that's normal, as it's not particularly loud, and there's no unintended inspection windows or leaking gear lube anywhere.

Still drops the #1 cylinder at idle... and possibly another, but not as bad. Pulling the enrichener back a smidgen brings it back, so my gut feeling is that there's a piece of crud in a slow jet. I'll pull the aluminum arachnid off and go through 'em as a winter project.

Clutch slave cylinder has a slight incontinence issue. I picked up a rehab kit for it, but haven't changed that yet... like carbs, I've been too busy riding, so I've perfected technique for turning handlebars and bleeding the bubbles up so the clutch don't drag... then I add a little whilst in the grocery-store parking lot. Adds character to big plastic-clad motorcycling. It seems to mesh well with the gravel dust.

It may be a 'normal' thing for the GL motor, I don't know... but when I'm rolling on throttle at 2000ish, the engine has a loud vibration-rattle... like a timing belt or primary chain is loose. Do GL motors do this, or should I be lookin' into it? FWIW, the PO did have timing belts changed, but I haven't popped the covers off for an inspection there.

Haven't mounted the trailer hitch yet.

I seem to be having terrible difficulties with performing diagnostics and maintenance on this bike... for some reason, it's nearly impossible to do when my feet are on the footpegs. Anybody else had that problem? :moped:

 

[desertrefugee]

I seem to be having terrible difficulties with performing diagnostics and maintenance on this bike... for some reason, it's nearly impossible to do when my feet are on the footpegs. Anybody else had that problem?

Yeah, right before I ran it hot and blew a head gasket for postponing addressing a balky fan switch...

But, it sounds like you're enjoy that wing - and on top of what <ahem> needs to be done. I had an '84 Aspy and really liked it. I lavished that motorcycle with attention and had a lot more into it than I sold it for. Easy to do.

 

[DaveKamp]

Yeah, right before I ran it hot and blew a head gasket for postponing addressing a balky fan switch...

But, it sounds like you're enjoy that wing - and on top of what <ahem> needs to be done. I had an '84 Aspy and really liked it. I lavished that motorcycle with attention and had a lot more into it than I sold it for. Easy to do.

Oooh... yeah, I imagine so. Fan on this one is really quiet... but the blocky LCD indicator does move, and hasn't gone Abby-Normal on me, so either it's workin' fine, or it's just not been Arizona enough 'round here.

I'm a paradigm of sorts. I appreciate technology, and highly respect clever engineering... but from another aspect, I tend towards simple and proven concepts like the Hammer. 45,000 years of human evolution, and the hammer's basic design and operation have NOT changed, because it's intrinsically durable, totally reliable, and requires no training whatsoever to implement.

My friends (and my Dad too) tend to wrinkle their noses at me with things like this- I tend to take something that's all luxuriously fancy with gadgets, and 'strip it for war'... eliminate all the stuff that really isn't necessary, and simplify the overly complicated stuff. I'm the type of guy that if I could have my way, I'd order a brand-new pickup truck with no air conditioning, and one power window on the passenger side... 'cause I can't reach the handle from the driver's seat.

It's probably because I focus on my goals, and dismiss value perceptions that aren't on that path. Twist throttle, accellerate... counter-steer, balance, apex, spot check left, accellerate, merge... ballet on two wheels... and anything that interferes (like the pesky turn signal cancel solenoid clicking away incessantly) is derailing my experience of being one with the motion.

Or something metaphysical like that... :builder:

 

[joedrum]

Me too ..simple war bike...lol

 

[slabghost]

Add ATF to the fuel @ 6oz to 5 gallon fill. While you ride chop throttle and coast a few times. This will force the use of the low speed jets and possibly clear and clean them. Maybe by winter storage time those carbs will be clean and fully functional.

 

[desertrefugee]

DaveKamp » Fri Aug 04, 2017 9:03 am[/url]":1hkks2gv]
My friends (and my Dad too) tend to wrinkle their noses at me with things like this- I tend to take something that's all luxuriously fancy with gadgets, and 'strip it for war'... eliminate all the stuff that really isn't necessary, and simplify the overly complicated stuff. I'm the type of guy that if I could have my way, I'd order a brand-new pickup truck with no air conditioning, and one power window on the passenger side... 'cause I can't reach the handle from the driver's seat.

Or something metaphysical like that... :builder:

I think we're on the same frequency. Probably has a lot to do with why I got rid of the Aspencade when I acquired the Valkyrie. The Valk is pretty much a touring motorcycle distilled down to the lowest common denominator. No fuel gauge, no temp gauge, no googahs at all. Motor, wheels, seat, bags. Just the way God intended it.

...and about air conditioning. I'll acquiesce on that point in the name of self preservation. It's an Arizona thing.

 

[DaveKamp]

Hmmm... I tried the ATF trick, but with SeaFoam instead... did help a bit, but didn't clear #1. It's a subtile drop... when it's cold, that's when it's most noticeable. When she's warm, it'll ALMOST fire on all at idle without enrichener.

What I do notice most, is when on the interstate, coming down a long grade, trailing throttle, I can feel it drop #1 because handlebar and footpeg vibration.

Yeah, I can understand ArizonaConditioning. I worked on a site in Rio Rico for four days two years ago early August, and got really cooked, took me almost a year to recover. Doctor was really, really, really mad at me for that... :rtfm:

 

[slabghost]

Steady diet of atf in the fuel is much more effective than a few round s of seafoam.