Okay, so I got a moment between nasty dirty projects, work, and running errands to post an update...
I've been running ATF in the fuel, and the affect is very noticeable- I'm killing mosquitos in large volumes everywhere I go...
I'm getting 'chuffing' out the intake and exhaust a couple times when the engine is cold, and occasionally when warm. Just out of curiosity, I pulled the vac test point plug on number 3 (just in front of right foot), and it threw a bit of a chuffing fit... with fire spitting out that one when it did...
Now, in my experience, pulling a multi-carb vac plug and seeing something like this would suggest THAT cylinder having somewhat of a valve or ignition-type issue (firing on an open valve), HOWEVER... from what I see, it appears that the plenums on the GL1200 may be somewhat 'unified' towards the center. If that's the case, the point of ignition could be a different location, and just travelling to the #3 port.
Anybody shed any light on this for me?
And next... anybody else seen this particular attitude in a GL1200 motor, if so, what should I go looking for? Perhaps a loose timing belt tensioner? It has gobs and gobs of power when the #1 cylinder is firing, so I don't think I have a valve timing issue... and as nicely as the igniton fires all four, I don't immediately suspect an ignition problem, BUT... if its' fully electronic, it COULD be getting false triggering events from something...
Oh, and I replaced the stereo... the new speakers dropped right in place, and the head unit slid into the rails with basically no modification aside from attaching the sliders to the outside of the unit. I took out ALL of the OEM system (none of it functioned) including the amp and auto-volume module. This kit sounds pretty good in-town, but could use more air-moving capacity on the highway... that is, until I get a helmet com system (stereo, intercom, phone, 2-way radio interface) in place, then the speakers won't matter at all... but if I could find an extra pair of saddlebag covers, I'd consider mounting some 4x10's and another power amp in there... ;-)
Oh, and I also pulled the handlebar switch assembly off the left side, and hosed out all the old grease in the turn signal switch. Even though I covered the fairing with several layers of cloth, I still managed to dribble some carb cleaner on a little spot on the left lower, and it bubbled up some paint, but it's on the back side, so not as noticeable, and seein's how it will rarely be sitting still, and NEVER be parked in a line up for a beauty paegent, and I live on a mile of gravel road, the bike will NEVER be clean enough for anyone to notice...
But the turn signal cancelling fritzo is MUCH better. Not perfect, but much better. I'm guessing by the wiring diagram that there's one set of contacts that throw the turn signal direction choice, and a second set that activates the cancelling module, and when the cancelling module pulses the cancelling solenoid, the solenoid pops the detent latch, dropping the turn signal switch back to center, until the module activation contact has closed... and time, grease, and grime have interfered with that set of contacts such that the cancelling module doesn't get a good signal. This would make sense, because the cancelling module's signal is probably a really low power signal, which would be very susceptible to less-than-stellar connection quality.
Anyone got suggestions re. the miss and chuff?