Fires but won't run

[duanes7]

A little background... Have a 76 GL1000 that was given to me, hasn't been run in years. But the engine was "just rebuilt" according to previous owner. Engine wouldn't spin over with starter. Turned out starter was rebuilt with the wrong brush plate and spun the wrong way (see viewtopic.php?f=26&t=439&hilit=start+spins).

Now, if I let her sit for 10 mins or so, she fires but won't stay running. Seems like poss fuel starvation. Had problem with petcock not flowing and had to rotorooter the lines. Tank does need some cleaning and flushing. Lines, clamps and filter are brand new.

With hose to carbs off of pump, it seems to be outputting fuel fine.

Let me know if this is a good or bad idea... Pull the float bowl drains, pull the hose from the pump, and spray carb cleaner thru.

Probably go over ignition and timing this weekend. Make sure points are set properly. Any good sources on this besides the shop manual?

 

[Joep]

I would put seafoam in the gas first start with 1/2 can and open the drains until fuel flows and then let sit over night up to 24 hours... and then try runing it.. saefoam was made for carb issue and many have brought wings back to running by the use of this product.. carb cleaners have a tendency to eat (dissolve) the rubber parts and if the needle tips are rubber it would make a poor situation into a need for complete rebuilds.. if you decide to rebuild check out https://www.randakks.com/Carb%20Parts.htm for info and kits.. they are pricey but he includes nearly everything you need for rebuilding and also gas and chemical resistant rubber parts..

 

[duanes7]

Ok, will give that a shot, Thanx.

I will probably rebuils the cards soon and cetainly will use randakks stuff. But I'd sure like to hear it run, even if poorly, before I tear into something else and add to the list of potential problems.

 

[duanes7]

Have carbs off and ordered Randakk's kit (in the mail).

Early tear down results...

Only the number 3 vaccum piston would move and then only with difficulty. Also the choke linkage between 1 and 3 wasn't spinning with everything else.

Pulled float from number 3 and broke off the short stanchion.

I can get Devcon from work. We use it to repair aluminum weapons structures. About 70% aluminum and machinable when cured. Will that work to repair the stanchion in a gas environment? Or is there another preferred material?

 

[dan filipi]

On Randakks site he mentions something about stanchion repair. I've never read it because I've never needed it but might check that out.

 

[duanes7]

Yeah, seems he has new stanchions that completely replace the old one. Not sure of price...

 

[duanes7]

Have carbs completely disassembled. Managed to not break anymore stanchions.

I did however score up 2 of the float pins pretty good and really bent one of them up. So, if anyone else finds themselves rebuilding an unknown set of carbs, order new float pins from Randakk and have them on hand. That way one isn't waiting them like I am.

My carbs are 758As as they should be and the CV pistons are flat as they should be, but the main jets are from a 75. Curious.

 

[joedrum]

you must be like me, your favorite tools are your hammerhands :mrgreen: :smilie_happy: :builder: :head bang: :nea: :help: :builder: :builder: :help: :rtfm: :mrgreen:

 

[duanes7]

I try to be gentle, but these pins were not cooperating and needed a little more persuasion. Supposed to just push in and out by hand, right! Not after sitting for 5 years. Dissimilar corrosion anyone?

 

[duanes7]

She fired and ran yesterday with no help form any starter fluid!

Thanx for all of your help!

Still need to balance the carbs and some other fine tweeks. But for the first time ine 5-7, years she lives.