flooding and popping

[j.man]

Well I found out that the carbs I have for my gl1100 were complete shit so I took the carbs off the 76 cleaned them and put them on the 83 got her running idling decent but I noticed a popping noise from cylinder 1 and 3 when its just running you can hear it but its not real loud but when the rpms get lower its turns into a real loud pop enough to make you jump. And i noticed those carb bowls on that sid were leaking so i pulled them and tightend the screw which fixed that issue. But now while the bikes running carb 1 floods the breather chamber along with the cylinder and puddles up in the pipe still sou ds like its running on all four though. My other problem is cylinder 4. You can look down into the breather chamber and see the air pressure backfire into the breather. Im gonna chexk the timming on it I. A min but what elts do I look at.

 

[OldWrench]

It sounds like you have a float problem. Also did you replace the O-rings on the manifold? They are 40mm O-rings. I don't know what the difference is between the 1000 carbs and the 1100 carbs.

 

[zman]

Sounds like it is flooding to me, the fuel level in the bowls when full doesn't go up to the edge of the bowl so if one was leaking it is probably the one flooding but any and all are suspect..I hate to say it but you should remove them and fix the issue, or just rebuild or repair the carbs you removed.
After you inspect/replace the float problem fill the carbs on the ground using about 4-5 foot of hose elevated and fill to the top and see if they leak, I leave the gas in the line for an hour or so just to be sure.

 

[joedrum]

sheesh ..it got to be carbs still id say and also weak ignition maybe ... have to be careful here as you can blow apart the slides tops in this running condition .....this is not a slame on stock carbs but ... you have to really get serious here to get this right with stock carbs ... i dont think its timing but i would check that ... it sounds like you have great lower end ... but your in the danger zone of backfiring and jumping timing clashing into piston and screwing everything maybe .. id be taking this rack off .... sheesh it was so bad with things like this i had one rack that was perfect to try on motors ..cause it was a known set of good carbs to try ... i have since just abandon stock carbs for all the trouble they can cause and the difficulty and money it takes to keep them up to par ....

 

[j.man]

Im sure the flooding is the floats but the back pressure throughnumber four and the loud popping seems like timming and the stock carb for it all have to be replaced completely I did replace the o rings. I just pulled it into the garage and it popped real loud and stoped the engine like a dead hault then started just finestill doing the pop thought im not worriedabout the flooding and stuff right now im getting a converter manafold any ay the poping is what scares me

 

[slabghost]

Check the valve adjustments. Too tight valves may not fully seal and allow combustion to return into the carbs.

 

[ekvh]

Plus one on valve check. There are three places they tend to leak, float valves, plenum seal, and carb-to-plenum o-ring. To find out which it is, remove the caps, dry them off. To see if it's a plenum seal, put a piece of newspaper in the bottom of the plenum. Turn fuel on and watch. If it's wet in the center, it's the plenum seal. If it gets wet from the side, it is either the carb-to-plenum o-ring or float. If it's the float, you'll see the fuel coming up through the jets. You have to watch carefully. If it comes from the plenum side, before the jets, it's the carb-to-plenum o-ring. Can be replaced without totally separating the carbs. They tend to shrink when sitting. Not your average o-ring because they are thick. Please don't report me, but I have used a small o-ring behind the stock one to get it to seal.

 

[shierh]

I have a very small issue that is similar. Its all carburator. I going to send mine out to have them done, likely at the end of the year. not bad enough at this point.

 

[j.man]

I just went and bought all new carbs well not new but they are in way better condition than mine ill get a rebuild kit and then I should be good

 

[j.man]

it was the carbs

 

[Steve83]

So, all is good now?? Cool!

 

[j.man]

Yep running great I have to pull the gas tank clean it check the timming and vavle clearance but running awesome speaking of which is there a special way to pull that thing

 

[joedrum]

the gas tank dont come out easy ...basically strip the rear end .. and it pulls out through there

 

[slabghost]

j.man » Thu Jul 03, 2014 6:07 am[/url]":27olkrw3]
Yep running great I have to pull the gas tank clean it check the timming and vavle clearance but running awesome speaking of which is there a special way to pull that thing

Not sure if it helps on 1000. But on 1100 , if you unbolt the rear master cylinder and let it hang it makes getting the tank in or out much easier. You'll need to remove the seat, rear wheel, rear fender. Shocks will need to come off at the swing arm. The list is not in order. Just what I recall from doing it 2 years ago on my 80.

 

[Steve83]

The battery tray needs to come out also. When you put it back together, be sure the inner fender is seated in the tabs on the tank and battery tray.

 

[j.man]

It is a 1100 and is there any thing to put in it to dissolve the rust .thats alot of work. Ill do it cause it has to be done. But theres no solution I can let soke it it.

 

[Steve83]

There are several different approaches - vinegar, electrolysis, and my favorite, Evapo-Rust. It's expensive ($25/gallon), and the tank will need to be removed, but it works wonders. There are threads here on the first two methods.

 

[j.man]

Yea I found a youtube video on electrolysis and apple cider. I was just hoping I could find a way to do it withoit havingto rremove it I guess that will be my project today

 

[joedrum]

im going to figure something here as i got some tanks to clean and dont want to remove them

 

[Steve83]

With the tank in the frame, I'd try the apple cider vinegar first. Fill it and let it sit. If there's any rust left, electrolysis will take care of it. I used the Evapo-Rust, but the tank was out and mounted to an engine stand so it could be rotated every few hours. It looked like new when finished.