Front Brake Bleed?

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OldCrow

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 26, 2019
Messages
147
Reaction score
15
Location
Knox Maine
My Bike Models
GL1200A, R100RT, KL650
Hello Everybody !
Can't believe it's been this long but the last ride on my 1987 Aspencade was nearly a year ago when my wife and I toured the USA, 11K miles in 3 weeks! Then winter and then Wuhan sent their present and an elderly mother puts a serious dent in ride time, anyway.

My front left caliper began leaking so finally I rebuilt it a few days ago. But now I can't get a good bleed on it. :( This bike has the linked front right with rear but I believe that only the left caliper is operated by the hand lever. True?

I've tried the tried and true pump/hold/bleed/release method, mini vacuum pump and I can still pull to the handle bar. Next I tried bleeding the master cylinder cracking the banjo bolt etc, as I recall last year the clutch master was a royal pain when I rebuilt the clutch master/slave.

Any ideas? :headscratch:

Thanks OC
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=219041#p219041:27p22llh said:
OldCrow » 5 minutes ago[/url]":27p22llh]
Hello Everybody !
Can't believe it's been this long but the last ride on my 1987 Aspencade was nearly a year ago when my wife and I toured the USA, 11K miles in 3 weeks! Then winter and then Wuhan sent their present and an elderly mother puts a serious dent in ride time, anyway.

My front left caliper began leaking so finally I rebuilt it a few days ago. But now I can't get a good bleed on it. :( This bike has the linked front right with rear but I believe that only the left caliper is operated by the hand lever. True?

I've tried the tried and true pump/hold/bleed/release method, mini vacuum pump and I can still pull to the handle bar. Next I tried bleeding the master cylinder cracking the banjo bolt etc, as I recall last year the clutch master was a royal pain when I rebuilt the clutch master/slave.

Any ideas? :headscratch:

Thanks OC


if not level lean, loosen bars so master cyl reservoir is level, remove lever and manually plung it to full depth, she will come around.
 
if not level lean, loosen bars so master cyl reservoir is level, remove lever and manually plung it to full depth, she will come around.

I've put the bike on the side stand with the bars full left to give the master an upward angle, much easier than leaning for the clutch :)

I thought the lever when to the bar would give full depth. But I'll give that a try, thanks
OC
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=219049#p219049:2ierrtpi said:
julimike54 » 30 minutes ago[/url]":2ierrtpi]
Have you tried to push the fluid from the caliper to the reservoir using a large syringe?

No, I've never picked up a pressure system for brakes. I think my next step is to try and remove the master cylinder. As it sets on the side stand full left the angle of the master cylinder piston is still not really upward. I figure since the master is sealed once the cover is screwed down I could lift the cylinder up enough to get an air bubble to rise to the reservoir.
 
There is an inherent issue with Honda front brake calipers. The bleed screw is not exactly at the top of the cylinder. This causes the slightest bit of air to get trapped in the caliper every time. The best way I have found to bleed front calipers (both single piston and duel piston) is this:

1. Remove the caliper bolts and take the caliper off.
2. Push the pistons all the way in which will push the brake fluid all the way back to the master.
3. Put a brake pad back in and clamp it to prevent it from allowing the pistons to come out.
4. With the caliper removed, hold it in a position so that the brake bleeder screw is facing straight up.

*NOTE* - Extremely important step! The master cylinder must be kept nearly full after you have pushed the pistons in and be topped off after each bleed!

5. Bleed the caliper until you get pressure (usually takes two bleeds to get the air out and pressure up).
6. Once bled and no air, carefully remove the clamp, place brake pads back in and install caliper.
7. With the caliper reinstalled, double check your master is full of fluid. With lid screwed onto the full master, pull the brake lever to slowly push pistons out.
8. After pistons are extended and brake pads make contact with rotor, STOP, refill master and screw lid on.
9. Continue pulling brake lever until pads are tight and pressure builds nicely.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=219056#p219056:3acxgr1j said:
mcgovern61 » Today- 9:09[/url]":3acxgr1j]
There is an inherent issue with Honda front brake calipers. The bleed screw is not exactly at the top of the cylinder. This causes the slightest bit of air to get trapped in the caliper every time. The best way I have found to bleed front calipers (both single piston and duel piston) is this:

1. Remove the caliper bolts and take the caliper off.
2. Push the pistons all the way in which will push the brake fluid all the way back to the master.
3. Put a brake pad back in and clamp it to prevent it from allowing the pistons to come out.
4. With the caliper removed, hold it in a position so that the brake bleeder screw is facing straight up.
.

BINGO! That got me a long way there. Then side stand bars left and suspension extended and tap, tap, tap on the Master cylinder banjo bolt and I have a firm first pull lever. But the lever pull still seems a bit long.
But I'll need to wait for the cats&dogs falling from the heavens to subside :) Hope to get a test ride in tomorrow.

PS anyone have a source for new brake lines? Mine look OK, where I can see them, but I'd like a new set to inspire real braking confidence.
Thanks
 
UPDATE!!
Took the OldWing out for a hard one hour ride today, multiple hard stops, multiple dragging boards, rough roads. A OK! Bike ran and stopped great, only issue was my tank bag electrification was on the fritz. Need to get that fixed since it powers my iPad running Spotwalla, action camera and extra USB ports for phones/cameras etc. My GPS is direct wired to the battery, fused.
I need all these doohickies to support my planned SaddleSore 1000 on the Equinox. Decided to use the Wing this ride since my BMW R100RT needs a new rear tire and a few other items.

Look here if you're not familiar with the SaddleSore 1000https://www.ironbutt.com/themerides/ssseries/. I tend to like long rides better than short hops :)
 

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