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Man, this looks so cool, I want to find something rusty to clean up, just for the fun of it!

Mark
 
i have a couple of good ones if you need one. $20 plus shipping. shipping will run about $10
 
joedrum":fwx3c66z said:
it a good idea to have a battery hooked up to the electros and then the battery charger to the battery ...and its beast to use arm and hammer laundry soap not baking soda ....ive also heard that you can use salt water as the solution ....
Click to expand...

The stuff I read could use several different electrolytes. Arm and Hammer washing soda, (laundry) supposedly has less salt content even than baking soda. The salt is what is corrosive. I had not a hint of trouble with baking soda
 
yea i dont know to much on it tryied it once on a realy bad tank and used baking soda ...anyway moved to useing different tank instead ...and have read more on it and results were good at first bad no to my standards of useing ...im going try more im sure my results were more me than the process in general
 
the tank isn;t bad on the out side. the in side looks bad as far as i can tell. it should do ok. thank cyborg i'll let you know if this cleaning does good. i still got to tareeverthing down frist to be sure. i hate winter when i don't have a warm place to work on stuff.
 
One reason I didn't use a battery in line with the charger was since this was new to me, I wanted to use less amps. One statement jumped out at me and that was, it didn't rust overnight, so why try to fix it quickly. Now I don't think a battery would be a problem, but whatever you use, keep an eye on it. I dumped my solution several times to check the progress. I did this over several days.
 
it will prob. take a couple of times to do it but i still have a bunch winter to get through. and i got to take iit off the bikeyet so i got time. while that is going on i hope to get the dyna unit back and try a jug start.so thanks all will keep you all posted.
 
sdrwwshr.jpg


My sender was stiff and rusty and read open with an ohm meter (any position).

I stroked it full sweep about 100 times while pushing additional preload on the shaft to make the wiper clean the windings.
Still read intermittently open, so I split a light washer and added it to the shaft, which increased the tension on the wiper enough to give good readings. Free fix!
 
captaindan":1u0q8k6z said:
You can clean it. Either soak it in vinegar or use the electrolysis method. When I took mine out it wouldn't even move. I did the electrolysis thing and it cleaned up real nice. Once the rust was off, I took off the case to clean inside, but be careful not to damage the small winding wire going to the connector.
Click to expand...

Wow that electolysis method looks interesting I will have to try it one day for small parts I use plain old rust remover - (Dominion Sure Seal Limited) I am certain there are scads of other brands but on small motorcycle parts its as simple as brushing it on wait for it to dry and then rinse it off - I was astounded how well it works! There is another product out there called metal rescue that is worth looking at

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hb7jyf7A4WE

this video shows a demonstration - if it works half as well as they say it will be worth buying
 
did the vinigar on the sending unit with a small brush , worked out great cleaned right up and even works. thanks all. still a long way to go.did the tank with the ele.process then used the vineigar too. another question. is the tank on a 79 gravity or does the fuel pump have to suck the gas out?
 

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