Getting rid of the four carbs

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Stevej's wing

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Fresno, ca
Anyone here ever try that setup with the carb manifold that you can put a 34 pict volkswagon carb to eliminate the four carbs. I have been giving it much thought and like the setup. Give me some feed back and thoughts on this setup?
Thanks again guys, Steve J. :builder:
 
well we have a guy here who is rather in deph in this type of moding cm 85 ...so it up to you ...i think all things are possible if one works towards that goal ...some say no way it as good some say its great some say webers are better than stock ...id say all the ways are possible and results too ...on the sear money side trying to fix stock rack first is cheapest start ..you dont have to buy every part out there first to check the m out
 
I'm a fan of the single carb simplicity.
Lots of guys now have done it. One I have met personally (windnwing) has a single and loves it.
Others have had trouble getting it to idle right or at all.

There are all levels of abilities when it comes to doing mods from the original turnkey setup.
Some guys have a knack and can and will stick with it til it's right and they succeed at it.

It's a personal preference I feel to go single or leave it stock.
If you can get your hands on a single someone built and tuned (that you can trust that ACTUALLY did it) to the same engine then you'll be way ahead.
 
I have been a mechanic for 35 years and cut my teeth on rebuilding carbs. From Ford's variable venturi to gm's computer run quadra jet. So the one barrel pict 34 on volkswagons are a treat to work on. Just wondering about the manifold you buy for the pict 34 carb.
The whole package will be about $400 carb and manifold. "I have spend that much rebuilding and buying and syncing oem carbs!"
You use the pull throttle cable and the manifold has a mounting bracket build into it to use the stock throttle cable.
My concern will it be to much of a carb or to little of a carb.
Also adapting an air cleaner, but I don't think the air cleaner will be much a problem tho.
Just don't want a gas hog or even a lean situation either.
Just trying to find out if anyone has the setup to kind of learn about any good jet setups and that kinda thing
Thanks again guys, Steve J..
 
its pretty established they mostly do poor mpg ....compared to good stock setup ....but some are doing rather good there ....the vw single carb is a good match up might be the best ...on it wide range and simplicity ...but this is talk from me i havnt done it ...no hands on for me
 
I've extensive experience with the Solex/Brosol H-30/31. Excellent carb for my particular set-up. Ran it for much of last year through this past winter to -8 degrees Farenheit on a Weber 2-barrel plenum manifold.
I've first-hand, solid experience with Weber (DGV 32/36, DCD 28/36 and DFT32) as well.
A heated manifold is the only way to go in my opinion.

I assume you're looking at Juan's stuff on eBay; PICT34 with a manifold...

I ran the carburetor below ($21 shipped from eBay and a $5 main jet locally purchased) on the manifold in the background with no problems for thousands of miles:
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Thanks for that info cm85. The setup I am looking at is a pict34 that bolts directly to there manifold. I really dont want to go through the four carb stuff again with this wing.
Thanks again for your input. :Egyptian:
 
Wish I could get a similar carb for the price. My manifold doesn't play nice with a single. I plan to build another.
 
The Brosol has a 25.5mm venturi versus the 22mm venturi of the DFT two-barrel primary. The DFT is having problems coping with the low temps. Below about 20 degrees F icing becomes a problem due to the increased velocity through the smaller opening of the DFTs primary. I didn't have this problem last winter with the Brosol. So, there is something to be said for the benefits of a single-barrel over a two-barrel carburetor for at least my bike in this situation. Again, that Brosol automatic choke was nice.

I either put the Brosol back on or provide waste heat to the DFTs intake. Been thinking about ducting the radiator instead of the exhaust. Won't look as cool to the on-lookers but is more sensible.

It's either heat the fuel (12v water heater element in the fuel tank - my best fuel idea right now) or heat the air. Snowmobiles heat the fuel...

Been doing a lot of thinking about this stuff because I really want to stick with the DFT carburetor. Make no mistake though, that Brosol is the ticket item for a single-barrel carb on my Goldwing. I just have plans for the DFT and need to make it work in the temps that the Brosol worked astonishingly well in. My DFT is no Champion in single-digit temps right now like the Brosol was. I had the bike out this past Sunday morning in 7 degree temperature and the ride was a fight. So, I've work to do.
 
Try removing the shield behind the radiator and install the so called "stator cooker" side covers. That should allow the carb and manifold to heat sufficiently to function. So the single is hidden. Let folks guess.
 
Yeah, I don' know what I'm going to do about that shield. Don't know if I will keep it in there or not. I know this though, ...those big side covers are horrible looking. Reminds me of a 1500.
 
I dont have to worry about low temps in Fresno, Ca. Low temps here is maybe 35. But in summer, I take the thermostate out because summers here are triple digits for about 3 months.
We are talkin 100 plus and sometimes 110. This last summer it was 110 or higher for about a month, YUK!! It was record hot summer.
Miss living in cooler climates, and I mean cooler not colder.
Lived in Minnesota for 10 years then moved back to Cali.
I really like northern Cal. But we are not talkin geography or temperatures are we.
I will let you know how the single carb 34 pict carb does, (that is if I can afford to buy it) because right now things are tight here in the central valley when it comes to workin on AG equipment, very seasonal workin on AG equipment.
 
sturglc":3ojhpb1h said:
Hey CM85, what main jet are you running on that solex, and any changes to timing?
125 runs mine a bit on the rich side. I run a hot ignition.
122.5 or even a 120 would work for a stock-style ignition.
Set-up and tuning a H-30/31 is tricky for most. I've details here.
The fuel charge does travel a further distance to the combustion chamber and therefore takes a bit longer to make the distance so a degree or so of additional advance was all I needed, if I remember right...
I haven't run the Brosol/Solex since last Winter...
Still working on finishing the conversion though. Finally getting around to finishing the topside of the carb.
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Cm85, that really looks like a cool setup. Would love to experiment with the single carb idea on these wings.
How do you advance the timing on a gl1100 to compensate?
 
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