Getting rid of the four carbs

[Anonymous]

Yep, that's me.
Steve, ...not too adjuster-friendly those 1100 ignitions, are they. Not like a 1000. I slot the existing opening of the pulsers (pick-ups) .04".
That's what I do.
I use a Dremel set-up as a table router with a jig that has stops = .04" - cut from the rearward side (left) as to rotate pulsers clockwise.
I can't make the plate adjustable as a 1000, so I make the pick-ups move instead - like that of a Dyna "S" right-side module for a 1000.
Make sense? ...

 

[dan filipi]

Delicate work moving both pickups the same amount and keeping them straight for the gap needed.

The back plate can also be moved by threading the vacuum advancer rod in or out for more advance or retard.
There's a thread here about doing this.

 

[Anonymous]

Delicate work moving both pickups the same amount and keeping them straight for the gap needed.

The back plate can also be moved by threading the vacuum advancer rod in or out for more advance or retard.
There's a thread here about doing this.

True, but really no different than setting-up and adjusting a Dyna "S" on a 1000.
I was never certain if adjusting the plate changed the start and end-points of timing advance. Start advance later, ramp-up later, end later... all in relation to cam timing. A degree or so probably wouldn't matter. Being it doesn't run off the cam like a 1000 and is electronic, Honda apparently saw no need for adjustability. Should never go out of spec for... 4 Keihin carburetors.

 

[dan filipi]

Delicate work moving both pickups the same amount and keeping them straight for the gap needed.

The back plate can also be moved by threading the vacuum advancer rod in or out for more advance or retard.
There's a thread here about doing this.

True, but really no different than setting-up and adjusting a Dyna "S" on a 1000.
I was never certain if adjusting the plate changed the start and end-points of timing advance. Start advance later, ramp-up later, end later... all in relation to cam timing. A degree or so probably wouldn't matter. Being it doesn't run off the cam like a 1000 and is electronic, Honda apparently saw no need for adjustability. Should never go out of spec for... 4 Keihin carburetors.

We looked at this in detail and found by moving the advancer rod only changes the start point which then changes the end point.

 

[Anonymous]

Certainly easier then.
A degree or so is all that is needed.
Was it 180 degree turns at a time?
Wonder how much half-a-turn translates into degrees of advance/retard?

 

[joedrum]

not alot really ive never measured anything but did set it to where i thought it ran the early 1000 371 cams the best in the 1100 mod 83 angry dresser i have .....there is a indent in the sleeve of the vac canister making the smallest move one turn .....i suppose a 1/2 turn could work though i just didnt try it ....hmmm you to shorten the stem some so it well turn without hitting the motor ....takes removal of snap bolt and replaced with regular bolt ...ive only done this with motor out ...motor in bike would be rough for my bear paws.....i had to mod a wrench to work it as final mod ....

 

[slabghost]

The vacuum changes the timing by moving the plate with the pickups but the rotor still advances with the mechanical advance. This kind of muddies things but increases adjustability.

 

[Anonymous]

I'm familiar with the Dyna stuff, so making it adjust like the Dyna stuff made sense to me. Wasn't a "well, lemme get it done to get it done" kind of approach.

Sorry Joe - I still have your rack. I'll get it you. Busy in absurd ways...

 

[Stevej's wing]

After this last build I was looking at the vacuum advance rod and thought the same thing.
Is there also a way to change the vacuum advance with that screw at the end of the vacuum housing, also is there a way to rebuild the vacuum advance rubber diagram?

 

[slabghost]

rebuild has been done and is here somewhere. I just replaced mine with a good one I bought.

 

[joedrum]

yes that needs to loosen and tha canister will rotate moving the plate ...stock the screw or bolt has no head ...so switching it to a regual bolt allows adjusting ...some have fix the canister ive never had to and cant speak on it