GL1000 Overheating

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Scratch that. We're all good now! She purrs like a kitten, with the occasional hairball. It says its still overheating a little, but its only running 190 degrees or so.
 
76Wing94":ga3b10pv said:
Scratch that. We're all good now! She purrs like a kitten, with the occasional hairball. It says its still overheating a little, but its only running 190 degrees or so.
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How did you fix the flooding?
 
dan filipi":3mpggcst said:
How did you fix the flooding?
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I really don't know how I fixed it. I turned off the gas and ran it until it ran dry, and turned the gas back on. It may have been flooding because it already has gas in the bowls and was still pumping more in. Now it runs like a top. I was terrified that I was going to have to take the carburetor back off. I've had it off 6 times or so.
 
Maybe a float was hanging up.
I've had that happen a couple times and by turning the gas off while running to let the bowls empty like you did fixed it.

Good to hear it's running good now.
 
I hope it stays running. Its gonna be painted soon. I'm thinking black. Once I paint it I will put on the front fairing.
 
76Wing94":27ovejcg said:
dan filipi":27ovejcg said:
How did you fix the flooding?
Click to expand...

I really don't know how I fixed it. I turned off the gas and ran it until it ran dry, and turned the gas back on. It may have been flooding because it already has gas in the bowls and was still pumping more in. Now it runs like a top. I was terrified that I was going to have to take the carburetor back off. I've had it off 6 times or so.
Click to expand...
Okay lemme 'splain what happened. Debris got caught in one or more float needles. Running the bowls empty allowed the the float needles to open fully. The sudden rush of fuel to refill the bowls flushed the offending debris off the needles and seats allowing them to function once again.
 
Makes sense.
Might have some junk coming from the fuel tank buggering up the carbs.
I've read that the fine rust can get past a gas filter, I wouldn't think that would cause a float needle to not close though but a piece of fuel line hose could especially if you've had the carbs out a few times, could easily nick the hose going on a barb fitting.
There's also the issue with Emgo filters coming apart that could be letting junk pass.
 
Common concept on how float needles work is they open and close in a similar fashion to say a commode. Level is low - wide open fill then close shut. NOT SO. It's more like you are trying to maintain a certain level in a tub with a variable leak. Float needles rarely ever open. They simply lose a little of the pressure against the seat allowing tiny amounts of fuel to squeeze past the seat. Even a tiny bit of rust can get lodged there in it partly open state making it impossible for the needle to seat and seal. Causing flooding. So you see they are not valves that are open or closed but metering devices.
 
yes it probably bad these are very old bikes very old wiring and such ......me myself on all my wings i don't use the temperature switch or thermostat or the heat shield thing on my bikes ....i want full flow in the cooling system....i want the fan to come on when i want it to ....and i want heat to have full escape from the radiator.....

so i take out the thermostat ......wire the fan up with a manual switch and remove the heat shield......

others on the forum have temp switch with adjustable temp setting ....there is a car temp switch that can be bought

the temp switch is right there beside the top radiator hose towards the middle of the motor with the wire hookups .......

on my bikes with thermostat out i only use the fan stop and go traffic and when I'm out of it turn it off .....it runs cooler in traffic than any other time.....

i just cant stomach the thought of having my wing dependent on cheap parts :mrgreen:
 
yea it dose look like it an engine support and it is somewhat but ican tell you its not needed ....if im thinking right there is two suport rods that can be put back for support ,in fact that is the support if there was any sure not the sheild....inever did put them back ...i have three bikes setup that way sure makes for better access to things ..
 
Okay. Heat shield off, thermostat out, manual fan switch. Temp gauge acts a litte funny, but its not overheating. I'm gonna put a new temp sender in it soon. I'm also going to put a fairing on. I cant stand 40 degree wind much longer.

I passed my brother-in-law at 80 on it easily today. :mrgreen: :clapping:
 
Joe and I are on the same page (should I be scared?) :smilie_happy: . Thermostats are fine when you need your cage to warm up on a cold winter days but who needs it on a warm, bike riding, summer day. Adding a toggle to power up the fan whenever I want to also works out great especially if I know I'll be heading into stop and go traffic I can kick on the fan before the temp starts to rise.
 
the 7 volt regulator may be cutting in and out on you causeing the temp gauge to be erractic acting .....one of my 1100s was doing that causing the temp to register hot when it wasnt with 12volts going to the guages and normal when 7volts go to the guages......i think the rugulator is under the left tank sidecover

thats good lew :smilie_happy: :Doh2: :mrgreen:

have you look into the sator connection plug to see if it is burned .....most here strait wire this together and sodered as this connector is what takes out the sators on these bikes ....the connector is in the left sidecover in front of the battery ....a three wire connector all the wires are yellow .....theres a thread on this in the teck section ....76wing94 :mrgreen:
 

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