gl1100 oversize cams

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cams from the early 1000s 75-77 are the hottest stock cams and would have to be modified to fit in 1100 heads but nothing big .....or you can use the entire head on the 1100 and have a different ignition setup as an option....the 1000 setup is more adjustable.....theres some power to gain here but it would loose some low end torque and gain on the high end power.....the stock 1100 running right is a good package just as it is ....and the cam change realy needs carb change to get the full advantage of the change .....
 
scottb2003":25xxum76 said:
can you get ovesize cams for a 1981 gl1100 to giv it a good tump if so where
thanks scott
:music2:

I'm fairly sure an experienced machinist could re-grind one of our cams for more lift and a slight bit more duration.
I've toyed with this idea for a long time.
because with an adjustable valve-train, if you grind a bit off the backside of the cam lobe your actually gaining lift on the front side, and width of open valve.

here's the problem...
as we all know, our bike ARE interference type engines, and gains of any significance will cause problems with clearance inside the head.
with the multiplication factor of the rocker arm, the grind on the cam wouldn't have to be much for good gains.

the question here is what do you want to gain?
less peak on a cam lobe and more duration usually gain lower rpm torque.
higher peak and less duration usually gain higher rpm horsepower.

the part we cant mess with much is overlap... which is the time both valve are open. overlap helps with efficiency.
but since this would require the lobes to be closer or father apart we cant do much with this as far as a re-grind.

also I'm not so sure you couldnt use the older cams in the 1100 heads. are the bearing surfaces differnt sizes ?
I wonder if the compression chambers are differnt...
I may take a walk through the salvage yard and do some compairing :D
 
the combustion chambers are different from 1000 to 1100 ....just a very small cut around the head to accomidate the larger piston of the 1100 and you swop the cams from early 1000s 75-77 and the only mod is to cut ignition stem off the early cam .....the head and cam switch is best though as it raises the compression ever so slightly and you can have an adjustable timing setup which would be an asset too but all in all i think this is more work than gain unless your realy going after everthing you can get.....
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=11572#p11572:3khw6mq5 said:
joedrum » July 26th, 2010, 1:53 pm[/url]":3khw6mq5]
cams from the early 1000s 75-77 are the hottest stock cams and would have to be modified to fit in 1100 heads but nothing big .....or you can use the entire head on the 1100 and have a different ignition setup as an option....the 1000 setup is more adjustable.....theres some power to gain here but it would loose some low end torque and gain on the high end power.....the stock 1100 running right is a good package just as it is ....and the cam change realy needs carb change to get the full advantage of the change .....
Good to know. I was just looking at taking advantage of this supposed quick power booster, but don't have the time right now to get too in depth with anything that isn't as easy as a drop in substitution...
 
wow ...well even i have have change a lot sense then ....truth is the info back then was not very good ...it took me on my own to figure out the path of parts mixing as everyone was just so tabo about it...today my bike hooch has many parts mixing done to a high output level ...and to some is not look at highly ...as i wasnt the right guy who was suppose to do these things ...truth is since then i proved i was the right guy in many mods that the guroos said were not possible ...and here at classic i was accepted as who i was and tolerated ...

this forum has come a long ways and all of us are the reason why ..we bicker a bit ..but we always try to be the backyard tech best friend and members first forum....if your interest is more power per buck here is the place ...we help all to get where they want to be ....the post above is not really current and many things have been discovered here at classic that makes that post silly today....
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=160749#p160749:28nqx7kn said:
Hawk8 » Tue Oct 06, 2015 3:36 pm[/url]":28nqx7kn]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=11572#p11572:28nqx7kn said:
joedrum » July 26th, 2010, 1:53 pm[/url]":28nqx7kn]
cams from the early 1000s 75-77 are the hottest stock cams and would have to be modified to fit in 1100 heads but nothing big .....or you can use the entire head on the 1100 and have a different ignition setup as an option....the 1000 setup is more adjustable.....theres some power to gain here but it would loose some low end torque and gain on the high end power.....the stock 1100 running right is a good package just as it is ....and the cam change realy needs carb change to get the full advantage of the change .....
Good to know. I was just looking at taking advantage of this supposed quick power booster, but don't have the time right now to get too in depth with anything that isn't as easy as a drop in substitution...
joedrum":28nqx7kn said:
wow ...well even i have have change a lot sense then ....truth is the info back then was not very good ...it took me on my own to figure out the path of parts mixing as everyone was just so tabo about it...today my bike hooch has many parts mixing done to a high output level ...and to some is not look at highly ...as i wasnt the right guy who was suppose to do these things ...truth is since then i proved i was the right guy in many mods that the guroos said were not possible ...and here at classic i was accepted as who i was and tolerated ...

this forum has come a long ways and all of us are the reason why ..we bicker a bit ..but we always try to be the backyard tech best friend and members first forum....if your interest is more power per buck here is the place ...we help all to get where they want to be ....the post above is not really current and many things have been discovered here at classic that makes that post silly today....

The cams can be used and require no modification really. If using the 1100 heads the rear cover needs removed to allow the ignition drive stem on the left cam space. Alternatively the stem can be removed from the cam but that will make the option of cam driven ignition problematic.
 
Aren't the cams coated with a thin extra hard metal coating like the valves, & can't be ground?
 
Cams are cast ground and hardened. Why would they need ground? Companies regrind cams all the time but it gets real expensive.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=11644#p11644:nofr02ro said:
joedrum » July 27th, 2010, 6:09 am[/url]":nofr02ro]
the combustion chambers are different from 1000 to 1100 ....just a very small cut around the head to accomidate the larger piston of the 1100 and you swop the cams from early 1000s 75-77 and the only mod is to cut ignition stem off the early cam .....the head and cam switch is best though as it raises the compression ever so slightly and you can have an adjustable timing setup which would be an asset too but all in all i think this is more work than gain unless your realy going after everthing you can get.....
Not so. The early cams will go straight in with NO modification to head or piston.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=160780#p160780:2hyva0gp said:
dan filipi » Tue Oct 06, 2015 7:45 pm[/url]":2hyva0gp]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=11644#p11644:2hyva0gp said:
joedrum » July 27th, 2010, 6:09 am[/url]":2hyva0gp]
the combustion chambers are different from 1000 to 1100 ....just a very small cut around the head to accomidate the larger piston of the 1100 and you swop the cams from early 1000s 75-77 and the only mod is to cut ignition stem off the early cam .....the head and cam switch is best though as it raises the compression ever so slightly and you can have an adjustable timing setup which would be an asset too but all in all i think this is more work than gain unless your realy going after everthing you can get.....
Not so. The early cams will go straight in with NO modification to head or piston.
True! on 1100 or 1000 the cam swap require no mods to heads or pistons. If done to the 1200 the pistons will need the valve reliefs enlarged slightly.
 
Was told that cams,etc, were like my old Triumphs. :roll: The lifters had a different metal on the wear portion, & you could see it. :yes: Believe it was called steel lite, :headscratch: sort of like carbide bits, is my understanding, was told machine shop would not try to regrind on the coating. :nea:
 
There is enough coating there that mild imperfections in the lobes (think flat spots) can be smoothed over with a whet stone. Think hand regrind. This will cause no damage at all. Most professional regrind processes actually add metal by welding then grind to the desired pattern then cams are hardened. So they can most likely regrind any cam.
 
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