GL1100 to re-bore or resleeve and bearing colour codes?

[Ansimp]

Check out the work that Steve has done on my 81 that had sat for 13 years without running!
viewtopic.php?f=82&t=5340

 

[birkco]

GL1100 – 1981 – engine overhaul

My story so far:-

Bike had sat for quite some time overhauled the carbs and she ran well but had smoke and a small knocking noise when engine cold. Replaced the stem seals better but still smoking on right pipe so decided to do the rings.
Opened up the old girl, to find that all bearings were down to Copper, one big end bearing was collapsed and one was just spinning on the crank. So the crank shaft is worn, as well as two conrods, three of the cylinders were also marked and scoured from water damage.
The pistons and rings are ok and I was going to replace the valves, valve stems and valve seals.

The simple solution would be to bore out the cylinders to 0.50mm and put in new OS piston and rings and replace the crank shaft.

But it seems OS piston and rings as well as replacement crank shaft have been discontinued and these parts are unavailable, at least from Honda suppliers.

The next problem I have encountered is regarding the boring of the block to suit Over Sized Pistons ( the parts manual indicates that there are OS of 0.25, 0.50, 0.75, 1.00mm)

I am told the boring can not be done as the sleeves are coated/treated with a nicasil process?

Why would Honda offer OS pistons if the boring can not be done??

Can anyone shed any light on this problem?

I have also been told that to re-sleeve the bores will create too much heat and engines have seized in the past when this has been done.

And does anyone know where I could get OS pistons and rings to 0.50mm.?

Perhaps this is why the majority has suggested that a replacement engine is the best course of action.

But I am now intrigued and want to find out as much as I can and then make my final decision

Are these just urban legends in the wing world ? :help:

 

[slabghost]

Parts availability is the primary problem. Partly caused by the longevity of these bikes. You might be able to use 1200 pistons resized to fit your bore. You may be able to get the crank turned down a little but I've no idea what can be used for bearings. Maybe car bearings can be modified to fit.

 

[OldWrench]

I’m not a motorcycle tech but have rebuilt many truck engines and what you are faced with is a real mess, lack of parts availability for one thing, Modifying bearings is not a good idea in my opinion. If the crank is bad and probably is with that bearing spinning on the crank. As for installing new sleeves, first you need to find them and then the installation needs to be perfect for rod alignment. It is obvious you want to fix this old engine but I’m afraid you are attempting to revive a dead horse. Maybe someone on this sight can locate a good engine and figure a way to get it to you as cheaply as possible.

I have access to a complete machine shop and as for me I wouldn’t mess with it, but here again I’m in the states and can find pars.

 

[Steve83]

The cylinders can be bored, it's the crank and valves that are treated and/or coated, and shouldn't be machined. 1200 pistons are 1mm larger than 1100's, but they also have a 2mm larger wrist pin, so not a simple exchange.

 

[joedrum]

like no way ...always wondered about that .....a no go on switching pistons

 

[slabghost]

piston base/ body can be knurled to expand their size slightly I've read.

 

[dan filipi]

piston base/ body can be knurled to expand their size slightly I've read.

I checked into this some a few years ago.

There's a company here called L.A Sleeve, got it written down on my garage wall phone number directory if anyone is interested.

 

[birkco]

joedrum » Mon Mar 18, 2013 6:04 pm[/url]":2napqfla]plus 1 to above statement completely....

Still a little confused with how to identify which bearings to order, I think that I need brown for both Conrods and Main bearings.

This is what I have found so far can anyone let me know the bearings to get with the information I will post in Pic form.
Crankcase II , Conrod 2, Crankshaft B.

:thanks:

 

[Steve83]

You have II's on the case, 2's on the crank - brown main bearings. You have 2's on the rod, B's on the crank - brown rod bearings. The letters (C) on the rods are weight codes, and have nothing to do with bearings.

 

[birkco]

Just about to send a post to you Steve83, but before I could you had replied - way to go!! Thanks very much most appreciated. I will now order the bearings and hopefully get the old girl back to life. I will just check the actual sizes of Crankshaft to make sure there is no wear.