GL1200 Engine Wiring on Run Stand

[Tom_Charlton]

Has anyone started a GL1200 engine outside of the frame? The intent is to make all adjustments (fuel & electrical) needed before mounting the engine back in the frame.

I have an engine run stand and have mounted an 84 GL1200 engine on it. The cooling & fuel connections are no problem. I’m using the 84 GL1200 ignition control unit (ICU) and coils, making sure the coils are grounded to the engine.

The wiring schematic is less than clear about which wire feeds power to the ICU.

ICU yellow to P/G.
ICU yellow/white to P/G.
ICU blue to P/G.
ICU blue/white to P/G.
ICU red/white to gear shift sensor.
ICU green/red to “E”
ICU black/white to ignition coil 1 & 3.
ICU yellow/blue to ignition coil 2 and to “E”.
ICU blue/yellow to ignition coil 4 & fuel pump relay.
ICU green to regulator/rectifier then becomes main system ground.

The green/red ICU to “E” seems to be the power wire, but I don’t want to smoke the ICU on a “seems to be”.

Is it necessary to wire up the alternator? If so, the 3 yellows go to the regulator/rectifier.
From the regulator/rectifier:
Black goes to the headlight,
Two red/white wire go to red, then to main fuse and battery. Red also runs to ignition switch and “E”.
Green becomes main system ground.
Second green is ground for brake light relay, fuse box ground, rear lights (tail/brake/turn, etc) ground, accessory ground, fuel level sensor, etc.

Thanks

 

[joedrum]

hmmmm neat deal to set up ..iwas going to do that too but never did ...steve 83 done it with a FI 1200 before

 

[dan filipi]

Alternator can be left disconnected but tape them so they can't touch together or to ground.

The radiator should be connected and filled so the water pump isn't run dry.

 

[Terry]

Cool idea,
consider making a video of it in action when you get it figured out.

 

[Denver]

Have been thinking about how to make, build a stand for this very thing, for some time now. :headscratch: Have what should be enough angle iron around, to build a stand, also motor's, ignitions, wiring harnesses, etc. :yes: So would like to see the details to try this on a parts motor i've had for some time now. :good:

 

[joedrum]

i maded one once and its still in indiana ...i never did run a motor with it ...seem to much work and parts i didnt have to complete it ...but the frame held a motor nice ....i think its still holding one in it

 

[Tom_Charlton]

OK, where are the gurus? I'm down to needing to know which wire feeds power to the ICU. :beg: :read:

:rtfm: ain't working.

Thanks;
Tom

 

[slabghost]

Black/white from engine start /stop switch. be sure icu green wire is connected to ground.
gallery/image_page.php?album_id=2214&image_id=23604

 

[Tom_Charlton]

For Steve83:

Since you said it, I now see the power wire in the book I have. :good: I must have focused on the black/white as just providing power to the coils and didn't notice the other end of the wire running to the stop switch. :doh:

I've changed the wiring diagram for the stand to read "ICU black/white to key switch and ignition coil 1 & 3."

Key switch (in run position) provides power to fan, fuel pump, and ignition. Start position energizes the starter solenoid.

1 more trip to the hardware store for a radiator hose, fuel barb, and battery cable lugs, and I should be able to turn the key and see what happens.

Thanks

 

[Steve83]

Lookin' forward to a positive report!

 

[Tom_Charlton]

Interim report:

Hooked everything up. Filled radiator and checked oil, both good.

Turned key switch on, with the ignition off. Cranked the engine until 20 psi oil pressure showed on gauge. No oil or water leaks - so far - so good.

Switched ignition on, fuel pump works, #3 carb dumps gas on the engine.

Took 3 minutes to pull carb rack, now to find out why #3 overflows.

More to come, I'm sure.

 

[joedrum]

:doh: opcorn:

 

[Tom_Charlton]

#3 float valve doesn't seat unless you push on it.

Has anyone ever bought parts from EBay vendor Georgefix's Motorcycle Parts in Oak Hill Florida? He has a new float valve & seat for $6.75 + $2.05 shipping. Price is OK, just wondered about his track record.

Thanks;

 

[slabghost]

No idea about the vendor. Aftermarket carb parts are generally under par. Try cleaning the valve and seat with a little polish on a Q tip.

 

[Denver]

Don't know this vendor, K&L has always sold me great parts. :good:

 

[dan filipi]

I have used georgefix with good results but I know nothing of the needle and seat he sells.

 

[tom foreman]

Great idea,and project.. :music:

 

[Tom_Charlton]

"Try cleaning the valve and seat with a little polish on a Q tip." I did that and the flood went down to a drip. I'll polish it some more later tonight.

The motor actually started. It needs help from the choke to start up, pops back thru the plenum occasionally, and eventually dies like it's out of gas. A single carb may be in it's future.

Grandson will be here Saturday to make a video of the engine running on the stand, so get the popcorn out for a Saturday movie (very short one).

I'll put together a parts list on the stand (with pictures) and post it next week.

So far, so good.

Have to stop playing and take wife to supper for her birthday. Hello, heartburn at 3 AM.

Tom

 

[Steve83]

I've purchased from Georgefix, and have had no problems whatsoever.

 

[Tom_Charlton]

A good days work, topped off by a good Mexican supper @ Tequila's, and success in the garage.

Looks like the engine just needed to be ran. The carbs aren't dripping and it will idle and accelerate once it warms up. I had to clean # 1 & 3 spark plugs (gas fouled) and then it started running normal. I'm using non alcoholic gas which may be helping also.

Ah, the list of what went into the engine stand.

20' 1.5" square steel tubing (base & uprights)
4.5' of 2" steel angle (cross bar and feet).
5' of 1" square steel tubing for mount uprights
2' of 2"X3" steel rectangular tubing.
4 6" hard rubber casters (from Harbor Freight).
20 3/8"X2.5" bolts, nuts, flat, & lock washers.
electric fuel pump (from somewhere)
Lawnmower solenoid.
Lawnmower Key switch (Ace Hardware), ignition kill switch (from somewhere).
4-6-8 cyl tachometer, ammeter, voltmeter, vacuum gauge, oil pressure gauge, temp gauge.
About 50' of automotive wiring, scavenged from somewhere.

It also holds V-6/8 Chevy engines, up to 400ci. Different mounts required for automotive engines, of course.

The basic frame is welded together, with everything else bolted to the frame.

What, you want pictures? OK