GL1500 Engine Rebuild

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Rednaxs60

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Started to clean the parts for engine painting. Took the rear case and was scrapping the old paint off, then remembered that Gerry mentioned he used paint stripper. Dug through the cleaning supplies and found some 1850 paint stripper:
Cica 1850 Paint Stripper.jpg
Applied three coats, cleaned after each, and now need a sanding, prime and paint. Takes off old gasket goo as well:
Rear Cover Stripped.jpg
Going to use this stripper on the other cases as well to get as much of the old off as possible.
 

Rednaxs60

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I hadn't thought of paint stripper initially, but it does work well. Have some zinc chromate spray that I will apply before painting.

Went through my parts list again. Had a brain fart yesterday and didn't save the work I did. List is almost complete again, only bearings to get prices on.

Have ordered the engine gasket set, carb insulators - between carb and intake manifold, clutch friction plates, rear wheel dampers and a couple of items for the 1200. Have queries into New Zealand and Australia for parts - have to be innovative - shipping is the issue. The AUS/NZ exchange is in my favour.

There are quite a few o-rings in the gasket set and will have to measure to determine what each is for. Too bad these gasket sets didn't have a listing of these items.
 

Rednaxs60

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Found two of the contingency items I think I'll need. These are the centre gearshift fork P/N 24212-MN5-000 and swingarm gearshift P/N 24213-MN5-000 out of New Zealand. Delivery is 3 to 6 weeks, works well with the schedule. From what I have read, and recommendations from members, have decided that this is a good idea considering the shifting issues that could ensue later on as I put more kilometres on the bike. Haven't been able to source the front gearshift fork P/N 24211-MN5-000. Will keep looking.

There is a damper "Plate B" in the clutch P/N 22322-MN5-000. I changed the one in my 1200 just after I bought it. The 1200 had towed a trailer, and had some 115K Kms on it. This plate consists of a spring sandwiched between two steel plates. The steel plates are riveted together with brass rivets. These rivets wear over time and have been known to fail. This item is also on my contingency list. Have found it in Europe.

I noticed that there are 10 friction disks in the clutch set I bought and that this seems to be common in other sets. The fiche indicates that there is a friction disk clutch "B" P/N 22202-MT8-000. I'm thinking that using one of the other friction plates in place of this one. Comments on this would be appreciated.

Noticing that parts seem to disappear quickly for whatever reason. Something like shopping at Costco, if there is something you think you might need/want, and intend to come back, might not be there.

Reading more forum threads on the 1500 engine, and it is interesting that the primary fix for a transmission issue is to purchase a used engine. Understand this as the cost to do a rebuild, gaskets, dowels, o-rings and the likes combined with labour can be considerable for a $100.00 part. Something like changing the air filter on an 1800, $25.00 part and approximately four hours labour.

If I wasn't doing the wrenching, I'd ride it until the engine failed, then assess my options.
 

Rednaxs60

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=218226#p218226:30kklnoc said:
UTgl1000 » June 29th, 2020, 2:53 pm[/url]":30kklnoc]
Have you seen this site
https://plenternz.com/index.php?cPath=6319_7381_7264

I mentioned that I looked quickly at the site. Since then I have been looking for some other parts and this site has two of the three items. I have contacted the company, they do ship internationally to Canada, and the exchange is in my favour. Had to look twice at the company and relate it to your post.
 

Rednaxs60

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New u-joint and water pump arrived today. These items will be replaced, and the used ones kept as spares. These costs are part of the engine rebuild cost so no increase in the estimate.
 

Rednaxs60

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More parts came in today. Engine gasket set, clutch plate set - 10 friction plates, carb insulators between carb and intake manifold, and rear wheel rubber dampers. Everything is coming together.

Have put a bearing list into a supplier here in town for a quote. The fellow I'm dealing with got back to me regarding bearing clearance in motorcycles in that motorcycle bearings are generally a C3 clearance. Had to look this up and found that all bearings have an internal clearance that is to an international standard. This clearance allows bearings to expand due to heat, C3 bearings have a bit more than a standard bearing. Will be asking the question regarding supply and cost for a C3 clearance bearing. Interesting to note that I have not read or seen any reference to this C3 clearance and it is not stamped on the bearings I've looked at. More to follow.
 

Rednaxs60

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Moving on up as the Jefferson's did. Ordered a couple of parts for the 1500, new clutch rebuild kit and clutch plate B - damper plate. Up to now I was a regular customer, but have developed a relationship with the parts department head at my local dealer, and now have a 15% discount when I order. Not a huge amount, but I will take everything I can.
 

Rednaxs60

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Hoses arrived. Ordered the ones that are formed/molded. Nothing is more frustrating than trying to make a straight piece of hose bend like a molded one. The hoses received, these are formed:

Tube C 19513-MY4-000
Tube F 19516-MY4-000
Tube J 19522-MY4-000
Tube D 19514-MN5-000
Tube E 19515-MY4-000
Tube B 19512-MT8-000
Hose Water G 19521-MY4-000
Breather Tube 15761-MN5-000

Tube A - 19511-MY4-000 and Tube H - 19517-MT8-000 are straight hoses so no need to order.

Tube C - 19513-MY4-000 is pending.
 

Rednaxs60

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Started to look for piston rings. Seems these are still available, but as a single piston set. This being the case and at some $50.00 to $60.00 USD per set, makes rings an expensive commodity. Will be looking at older GW piston sizes, and even the auto industry. Can always fit a set.
 

Rolilk

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I’m enjoying reading your posts on your rebuilding. I have done an engine swap for my 1500. And now wish to rebuild the original unit. Mine has the dreaded shift fork rattle. The engine I swapped out now is starting the same thing. So I’m taking notes of how things go for you and what I can learn from the do’s and don’t do’s. Thanks for keeping all of us involved.
 
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