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VintageGeorge

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west Houston, Texas
I love forums , been a member on the SOHC.net for many years with my K8 CB750. This is my first trek into Wingdom and so far I am baffled. Have an unmolested '82 Interstate that thinks it's a Vespa! This bike is showing only 8k on the clock, so it spent many years in storage obviously . It runs great , starts and idles pulls hard from the light but on the road and freeway ramps she falls on her face , no more beans. But it will do an honest 70 and hold it , but has no reserve power , I have to coax it above 4500 rpm . Listless comes to mind , certainly not very exciting , and dangerous if I can't get out of the way !
Thanks for any thoughts and comments !
George
 
Welcome to our little world. 82 has both vacuum advance and mechanical advance in the ignition. With a lot of sitting one or both could be froze or at least very slow to move. Both of which are a royal pain to get to. So I have to second the suggestion you check through the carbs. Idle and general run seems okay from your description but the slides may be sticking. How do the plugs look? How many miles have you run it since wake up? Long storage the rings may have stuck in the pistons. That would give you lower compression. They usually free and reseat after some good runs.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=107233#p107233:2a4gqvux said:
Dusterdude » Sat Jan 11, 2014 7:07 pm[/url]":2a4gqvux]
Welcome from a sohc4 member as well
Hey Buddy , man these Wings are different beast for sure ! I feel like these guys here will steer me straight !

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Yea,they are different.the guys on this forum are just as good amd helpful as the guys on the sohc forum.i love it here


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Welcome from Southern California! The fuel system would be my first point of attack. After many years of storage there will be gum, varnish and other junk in the tank and carbs. An ignition upgrade wouldn't hurt either.
 
Welcome from North TEXAS DFW area ..... + 1 on omegaman's suggestion... maybe run through 8 tanks... change fuel filter.. plus.. air cleaner... maybe spray cylinders with pb blaster through plug holes and run it.. then change oil... if it has been sitting.. at minimum I would consider redoing brakes.. to include polishing the sliding pins and the pad pins.... They can stick and even if releasing.. May not be completely free from rotors..
 
I believe i would have to check the gas tank for rust first, look inside with a flashlight, if lots of rust, flush your tank. These tanks do get some rust build up over time sitting.

If the tank has rust, then you can surely add the thought of it getting into your carbs, remove and rebuild or maybe just clean every thing. Also if no rust, check your sync on all your carbs.
This could be a major power loss...it might run good sitting there, and pulling off, but loss of power will show up when speed increases.

Check your brakes as well, they may be sticking, creating loss of power. Roll your back tire when it is up on the center stand, if it is hard to spin over with you hand, then you have a problem. Then place a floor jack under the motor and jack it up a little to get the front up to clear the floor, spin tire and see if it is easy or hard...if hard..you got sticking calipers.

if all the above check out good, no rust, good sync, good spins on your wheels with no drag,
then do a compression check, if all good, check your plugs, air filter, ect.

This method will either show you a problem some where, or something else to look for.
all of us try to help here, lots of good team players. We've all been in your shoes.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=107253#p107253:3c8al142 said:
backyardtrouble » Sun Jan 12, 2014 10:52 am[/url]":3c8al142]
I believe i would have to check the gas tank for rust first, look inside with a flashlight, if lots of rust, flush your tank. These tanks do get some rust build up over time sitting.

If the tank has rust, then you can surely add the thought of it getting into your carbs, remove and rebuild or maybe just clean every thing. Also if no rust, check your sync on all your carbs.
This could be a major power loss...it might run good sitting there, and pulling off, but loss of power will show up when speed increases.

Check your brakes as well, they may be sticking, creating loss of power. Roll your back tire when it is up on the center stand, if it is hard to spin over with you hand, then you have a problem. Then place a floor jack under the motor and jack it up a little to get the front up to clear the floor, spin tire and see if it is easy or hard...if hard..you got sticking calipers.

if all the above check out good, no rust, good sync, good spins on your wheels with no drag,
then do a compression check, if all good, check your plugs, air filter, ect.

This method will either show you a problem some where, or something else to look for.
all of us try to help here, lots of good team players. We've all been in your shoes.

A lot of very good info , thanks for the replies especially about the carbs and tank rust. I was hesitant to dive into the carb system but once I did it was really no more of a chore than 750 carbs, had them off twice , learning experience and all , now it runs up to 7k and has plenty of power now on the top end . But she is still a bit mushy on the roll on , off idle if you will . Very rideable and stable , at least until the BIG UGLY showed up !
THE rear brake stay arm is rubbing the tire (Dunlop 140/90/16) I rode it 20 miles home at night and when I got off I10 I smelled burning rubber , but not too bad , so I parked it . The next day upon investigation the outboard spacer between rear caliper and swingarm is not there ! WTF ? So I order a new spacer and ...... it still rubs ? I guess the caliper arm is bent ? The groove it ate into the tire is pretty substantial , also I found from the PO's paperwork the tire is new , less than 200 miles ! Could my swingarm be bent ?
 
that spacer on 1100s is different for different years they did a lot of changes in 1100 yrs .. I think ... I am not real sure im right ...but think so .... I think ive ran into this in the past ...where a spacer of different yr 1100 didn't work
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=108900#p108900:32n3ota9 said:
joedrum » Fri Jan 31, 2014 10:53 pm[/url]":32n3ota9]
that spacer on 1100s is different for different years they did a lot of changes in 1100 yrs .. I think ... I am not real sure im right ...but think so .... I think ive ran into this in the past ...where a spacer of different yr 1100 didn't work

yeah it was missing , not there , p/n : 42312-MB9-000 , But yes my research shows the same part that was missing, so I know some slacker forgot the bushing and off rides happy GW man ! Except now I get to figure out what kind of pot they were smoking when they bolted this back up with leftovers on the floor ???!!! Actually I am sure now I have the right bushing , inner and outer , but with less than a gentle pull on the axle wrench the tire badly RUBS the torque arm . What am I missing ? Also with a laser line (HF) it appears to be tracking within 3mm . Close as I can tell.
 
I agree some pictures would help and be sure to get some of the brake stay arm too. Some have bent it slightly in certain cases to gain clearance. Some tires "grow" a bit more than others. That is once pressurized they expand.
 
200 miles doesn't indicate how many YEARS on the tire. They do balloon out over time. I had an SEi with a tire rub - it was just the tire swollen. A new E2 and I had over 1/4" clearance at closest point.

"Love 'em all.... Let God sort 'em out!"
 

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