Head Gasket safe removal

[Nightcorona]

Yeah I have been plugging away at this all day. I wanna ride it been 4 years that's enough. I will see if I can find something that magnifys from the side it looks smooth and the yucky stuff is actually ingrained into the surface.

 

[dan filipi]

I wouldn't depend on copper coat. Best be patient and get this part the best it can be. If rushed you could be tearing it down again.
If you're tired of working it, find a machine shop to surface it taking the absolute minimum off.
While you're at it you need to check condition of the valves if any are bent or leaking. They should be lapped at a minimum. If any are leaking, hopes for good compression are out the window.

 

[slabghost]

Great advice. If it isn't super flat you'll be doing this again.

 

[mcgovern61]

I sure can still see that scratch here in New Jersey! :shock: That would scare me a bit. I would at least have a shop evaluate the depth of those scratches. My opinion, they are gonna leak!

 

[AApple]

You want both the head surface AND the block surface as clean, and straight as possible to avoid future pre-mature failures.

GL110024

• AApple
• Dec 6, 2015

Both heads after "surfacing"

GL110022

• AApple
• Dec 6, 2015

Left side block after "surfacing"

This is one area that you do not want to take shortcuts on, or get in a hurry to finish. :nea:

 

[Nightcorona]

How did you get the block side that clean? Mine is smooth but stained badly. What is the best way to check valves? I heard leakdown before but what liquid? Penetrating oil goes through eventually. They were all full of crude I went around them with scotch pad and chemtool they are all clean now but I never texted them again. I may have fun finding a machine shop and I can get a whole head for 30 to 50. Man I want to beat the guy that sold me this restoring it is fun but I am a clock and its almost out of time. Oh I hit the starter button for the first time. I had the clutch in and the smergency in and nuetral no go. I tested the starter could the relay be wired wrong.

 

[slabghost]

What emergency? Solenoid could be bad or start button dirty.

 

[Nightcorona]

I have read of people using JB weld as a filler. These are small scratches. I am looking for machine shop. I just don't have a week to wait for head. I am also reading how people must use Sandpaper and a flat surface. The valve check . If I fill it with soapy water and get a bubble or 2 with the back blasting is this Ok? In reality the valves get 130 psi against them not behind them.

 

[AApple]

Nightcorona » Thu Aug 11, 2016 10:39 pm[/url]":2v7q8d1h]
How did you get the block side that clean? Mine is smooth but stained badly.

This last time, I used a long mill file to get the heads and block surface straight. If you look closely you can see some of the file marks still. After that, I used 320 grit sandpaper on a long sanding block, and progressively used finer paper until I was satisfied with what I had. I think I finished with 600 grit. I made SURE there were no low spots anywhere.

 

[Nightcorona]

I couldn't find the Joedrum filing info.

 

[slabghost]

Read through this thread. Could start at the end and scan back to the filing procedure. viewtopic.php?p=134382#p134382

 

[Nightcorona]

I used a straight edge and I have been cleaning the heck out of it. It feels smooth to the touch but there are still stains. I cleaned the valves with green pad and chemtool they are clean both surfaces and seem to hold soapy water. I am concerned still about number 3 cylinder that has some carbon like residue that won't come off but piston passes over it no problem. And it seems to be fading and getting more smooth the more I run the pistons. I have carbs all cleaned up bowl side and have chemtool. Is there any other reason I shouldn't try to put this back together except that scratch?

 

[slabghost]

A .004 deep depression on the gasket surface is enough to cause gasket failure. If you are certain the heads are flat and the block then go ahead.

 

[Nightcorona]

nI will have to get feeler gauges and do it like the guy on YouTube. Hey is there a way the rubber gasket for the oil inlet goes or is it no matter. The old one was too thrashed to tell. Man am I neverous about this. What is the correct torque? Oh and also do you use regular oil or does it have to be motorcycle oil. I get conflicting views. The first round if it runs will be out quick. I am wondering if I should just leave the old oil until it starts then switch it? The parts all seem real clean there isn't much crude know the motor.This stupid carbon or whatever it is bothers me but it seems to be wearing off nothing I have tried will remove it. It comes off real slow.

 

[dan filipi]

As long as the cylinders are smooth no need to go any further on the stains.

 

[Nightcorona]

It is a little rough around the carbon deposit but the piston doesn't seem to even notice it. Oh well here goes nothing

 

[dan filipi]

The carbon at the cylinder top? That should be fine. The rings are well below that point.

 

[Nightcorona]

Well both heads are on. I had one sticky bolt and i was using a cheapo torque wrench. What happens if it is over a little? Another question what if i have head gasket problems? The gasket seems to be made of solid copper with a covering. Can i reuse them if the head is off and needs resurface?? Coppercoat is supposed to make that possible.

 

[dan filipi]

The "core" of the head gaskets that I'm aware of is a thin tin in the center with gasket material glued to it. No copper I've ever seen.
These head gaskets are not re-useable.

 

[Ansimp]

dan filipi » Tue Aug 16, 2016 2:36 pm[/url]":2ivfqpm4]
The "core" of the head gaskets that I'm aware of is a thin tin in the center with gasket material glued to it. No copper I've ever seen.
These head gaskets are not re-useable.

Even though Joedrum does.. :smilie_happy: