Help with GL1100 milky oil

[John Luke Travers]

I have a friends 1982 GL1100. After finally getting it running. The previous owner chopped the wiring harness and did some crappy wiring so much that it was blowing fuses left and right. I fixed all that by doing it right. I noticed that the oil is all white and milky so I did a normal tune up. I changed the spark plugs, oil filter and oil. After running the bike for maybe two minutes I check the oil again and it’s milky white again. What’s going on here? I saw some stuff about maybe the water pump or something. Anyway, can someone help me out? I need to figure this out. I have the manual and have built 3 custom bike. It’s just I have learned sometimes it’s better to ask someone who has the same issue and then resolved it.

Thanks!


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[John Luke Travers]

So if someone could point me in the right direction that would be fantastic!


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[joedrum]

Hmmmm ....well it didn’t take long for the oil to get milky ..seems the oil and coolant are mixing fast ...water pump can cause this this ..take the lower radiator hose connector loose from motor ..two bolts hold the cover on ..once off ..reach in there and see if the water pump impeller wiggles from side to side ...if so this is bad ...also look for radiator coolant having oil in it ...this could be the problem if bad ...but it could also still be something else ...post back what you find

 

[John Luke Travers]

The fan has some play in it. No oil in the radiator fluid as far as I can tell.

Thanks!


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[John Luke Travers]

I also saw this guys video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xGEdnBkLsXg

He and I have the exact same issue so I’m thinking it’s the water pump and some of the seals.

Thanks!


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[Two85s]

Just so you know the fan and water pump are not connected on the Wing.

 

[John Luke Travers]

Ik


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[John Luke Travers]

I’m not gonna bother removing the fan.


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[DaveKamp]

So, coolant is a possibility... to get from cooling system to oil, it'll be either gasket, or water pump seal...

But question... hw much had this bike been ridden in the year or so prior?

It MAY hust be condensation, and while changing the I'll work get rid of lots, that's gonna be more till it's been changed and driven more

Look for other clues... coolant level dropping, radiator cap releasing coolant into the overflow, etc

There's plenty of ways for moisure to vet drawn into an engine, and normal operation is one of the greatest... a well tuned, clean burning engine generates plenty of water in the combustion process, and if the pvc valve isn't drawing blowby gases out of the crankcase, you'll have a chocolate milkshake.

I had asv 82 Ford F100 with a 300 six, i drove it 3miles to work every day, and it never got warm enough to evaporate the condensation that occurred in short runs, so i was changing the oil every month...

 

[John Luke Travers]

Where is the pvc blowby valve?



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[John Luke Travers]

Pcv


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[dan filipi]

There is no PCV “valve”, though there IS a tube to ventilate the crankcase. It is at engine top rear, by the timing hole cap.
It’s doubtful condensation is the problem. I’d be looking at bad water pump seal.

Joedrum above was referring to the water pump bearing, how we check if that bearing is bad. Any more than very slight movement side to side indicates a bad bearing and the pump needs replaced.



Crankcase vent tube:

 

[saganaga]

Did your water pump have the bakelite blades, or the metal blades? The original water pumps had the yellowish orange bakelite blades, and the bearings don't last forever.

There's also a weep hole in the front transmission cover, which usually leaks if the water pump is bad, but can get clogged.

If it is the water pump, there's plenty of posts here and other places on the subject. Most people seem to take the time to do a few other front engine maintenance tasks as well - check the timing belt tensioner pulleys, replace the timing belts (the Gates ones are cheap and generally trusted), replace the radiator hose (cheap), etc. But unless you are hamfisted, it ain't complicated.

 

[pidjones]

Everyone has jumped on the water pump. What about head gasket? There are water passages next to the oil return from the heads. Compression leaking into the oil can make it milky fast, too.

 

[John Luke Travers]

Hmmmmm well the water pump did have some play and probably will need replacement one day. Plus I already bought it. So I’ll replace it and if it’s still milky then I’ll go for the head gasket.




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[kerryb]

Water pump is easier than head gaskets! Hope it is the water pump!

 

[GTC@MSAC]

Replace water pump since you already have one. Bad head gasket would likely, but not always, give you white exhaust from burning AF, plus pressurized overflow of coolant. Best of Luck!

 

[John Luke Travers]

I believe that it worked! The water pump was the problem. I do believe that there was some left over milky oil in the engine so it’s slightly discolored. But much better than before. I can see though the oil now. My next problem is that it seems to be smoking as soon as I get her to operating temp. It’s smoking mainly from the left exhaust and a tiny bit from the right. Any ideas?

Thanks! Y’all have been a lot of help.


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[saganaga]

Are you parking it on the center stand ot the side stand?

 

[joedrum]

It needs run for awhile I’d say ...mix some ATF in the gas about 5oz per tank nothing cleans better may smoke more ..but bike been sitting long time I’m sure it needs to run clean awhile ..on any new old bike just keep an eye on everything ...and yes centerstand is best way to park especially now just running after long sit ..