hotter coils for 1100 (Dodge Neon Retro)

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If you cant afford our complete ignition, we sell just the Quad coil. it fits the GL1000 using the stock "T" mounts. I'd have to bolt it on the 1100 to be sure they are the same but my crusty memory says yes.

It fits the 1000 with no interference and runs about $70 plus shipping.

Advantages?

LOTS of voltage (over 100K), Section Bobbin construction (not cheap paper wrapped "I" core), and if you upgrade to our ignition later, you get multi spark capabilities with this coil as a bonus! :yahoo:

Our GL1100 kits should be ready in a few weeks. I will post photos and our fearless forum leader Dan Filipi is purchasing the first production kit we ship. I pray every night he loves it...lol. :beg:
 

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Paul, I took a good look at your website.
Your site doesn't make it clear whether the kit
for the GL-1000 comes with ignition wires, plug caps etc.
Could you clarify this for me?
 
All ignition kits come with the module, encoder, coil, and wires with a cap molded on each end, and appropriate adapters for the bike.

British and Harleys dont use the same type of cap as the Japanese, so for those kits we provide new plug ends to crimp on once you determine proper wire length for your application. They dont work for most Japanese cycles so we don't include with every kit.

On The GL1000 kit we include 4 new wires (800 ohms per foot of spiral wound is required if you run our ignition module). We order them a precut length so you will trim to length once you have them installed, then thread your stock (or new NGK) resistor caps back on.
We can sell you new caps if you havent already upgraded yours, or most metric bike shops have them in stock. ALWAYS use resistor caps and sparkplugs if you plan on installing our ignition.

If you want to purchase just a coil, we will recommend upgrading wires at the same time. They are $18 per lead.
I will update our website to reflect this. We appreciate you asking for clarification!

Since we have a unique system, i encourage emails, texts, or phone calls. We steadily improve thanks to great people like you :good:
 
Great Paul. One more question.
I just purchased four NGK Iridium plugs, DR8EIX 6681 for the wing.
Since these are supposed to be a direct replacement for the
originals, I assume they are resistor plugs and will work with
your system? At 7 bucks apiece, I hope I can use them.
Thanks Paul.

(I bought these after my brother installed them in his Sportster
and noticed an IMMEDIATE cure for a persistent low end hesitation)
 
You have R listed, so that would indicate they are in fact resistor plugs. NGK also makes non resistors so watch for the "R". They are great sparkplugs.
Go ahead and use them ;)

Watch the gap though when using our ignition. We ran a Corvette with them and gap was supposed to be .060" while we recommend .028-.032" as a starting point.
The theory is a wide gap gives a greater surface area of "spark" and will burn more efficiently. That is true to a point, and most emissions are created at idle, but at higher rpm and higher load, ignitions struggle to create enough voltage to still jump that large gap.

We don't need excessive plug gap because the ignition creates three full length sparks. If the first doesnt burn it all (and it wont), we have a second and third opportunity to burn off the rest of your fuel before it dumps into your exhaust as wasted energy.
 
Quickly reviewing the posts I see the slabghost states the stock coil is 3Ω but I see no mention of any of the other coils ohms. A 3Ω Coil (primary) draws 4 Amps at 12 Volts - a 0.7Ω coil would draw over 17 Amps. I most of the automotive coils are .7 or lower in ohmage and not designed for a Kettering type system. Yes ballast resistors can be used but the voltage drop with that amount of current means HEAT and lots of it. Normally 4.5Ω for points, 3Ω for transistor and saturation controlled, 1.5 for 6 volt systems and .7 for for current controlled (high current, cheap to make) late model cars and bikes. With all that a question for Paul, I may have missed it but what is the ohmage of your Quad coil.
 
I am here because I have a chance to buy my brother in laws 1981 GL1100 that has set for 5 years and has many electrical issues. I am self employed having an automotive electrical and 3d design background. Just finished a mold for a waste water sampler company in the area, repair marionettes and sign ASL. This topic seemed interesting lots of questions and few answers, most of it has very simple answers. Besides, I need to post 5 times to get to the manuals.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=86890#p86890:2rswxu41 said:
C5Performance » Fri Jun 28, 2013 8:45 am[/url]":2rswxu41]Our coils are 3 ohm so any electronic ignition can use them. I've also used them for a Honda Benley 6 volt bike with stock points.
Click to expand...


I'd like to clarify...if you are using a Dyna S ignition we DO NOT recommend using our coil. I believe Dyna recommends their green coil, which can handle the heat generated from the coil being "turned on" for so long. If you use a Boyer/Pertronix or older ignition which simply replaces the points with an electronic pickup, you should be fine. The PowerArc circuitry we use has such precise saturation control the coils are not subject to the kind of heat most coils might endure.

I want to help out but not give "blanket" statements that could be misleading.
 
[url=https://www.forum.classicgoldwings.com/viewtopic.php?p=86862#p86862:8joqewd1 said:
C5Performance » Fri Jun 28, 2013 12:31 am[/url]":8joqewd1]Hey, we do Harley kits also. We can even send a small bag of floor dry as a bonus offer...lol
:thank_you:
Click to expand...

Har dee har har. He'll love you for that one, Paul. :smilie_happy:

His is a 99 Sportster. I believe it already has electronic ignition from the factory.
 
[url=https://www.forum.classicgoldwings.com/viewtopic.php?p=86890#p86890:1xe2jdsk said:
C5Performance » Fri Jun 28, 2013 9:45 am[/url]":1xe2jdsk]Our coils are 3 ohm so any electronic ignition can use them. I've also used them for a Honda Benley 6 volt bike with stock points.
Click to expand...

Paul, just out of curiosity....
I have a '77 Honda CT-90 6 volt, points ignition.
Would your coil work for that?
What benefit would I see if it does?

Keep in mind that the CT-90 has no voltage regulator.
The battery acts as the regulator, so the voltage in
the system can vary quite a bit, to the point where it
can burn out all the bulbs and the ignition coil if
the battery goes bad.
(don't ask me how I know this. :doh: )
 
When i mentioned the Benley, we only used our coil because the stock coil was junk and i didn't have a source for a new one. We don't have a complete ignition kit small enough to replace the points on anything with a diameter smaller than 2.66" until our new ignition is ready later this year hopefully. It's about 2" so it will fit all kinds of smaller Japanese and German bikes.

Advantages for just installing our coil would be minimal. You still have breaker points to control everything. If you had the entire system you'd have strong improvements in starting, power, fuel efficiency, and idle quality.
Why dont you install a small voltage regulator? Old snowmobiles use them to keep the lights from burning up. I've used them when adding a lighting coil to motocross bikes in the past. Best part is they are cheap!
 
C5 paul.. are you saying that your coil will be ok on a 1977 GW GL 1000 ..I have a Martek ignition, will the coil be ok with that...?
Although I think I probably should replace that ignition.. I have to watch $$, it might be out of my range..
The wingers on this site have been trying very hard to get me back on the my wing.. Off the road for 3 weeks....
How much are the Coils & your ignition..? I guess if you give me the parts I need I can look it up ..on you site..

Thanks ,,crowhorse
 
Crowhorse...cool name! My last name is Crowe. Anyway, let me check into it more before i answer your question.

The main issue we'd have using our coil and another ignition, is that many aftermarket ignitions have far too much dwell. This increases coil heat to the point where you almost HAVE to use an "I" core to dissipate all that heat, or risk very short coil life. I believe the Dyna green coil was designed to withstand mega high heat applications.

I am admitting our coils were not designed to be used in those conditions. We use Section Bobbin coils and only turn our coils on for a short amount of time (super fast refresh rates). This is why i dont feel comfortable recommending a mix unless i do more research.

If your current ignition has a good means of dwell control (i will try finding this out) then you'd be ok. If not, i will recommend we find another solution so you don't waste your money. Our QT coil is only $70 (runs all 4 cylinders). The ignition is $260 but you need other items as well (encoder, plug wires, adapter body). If you really want a kit, send me a PM so we don't turn this thread into a sales pitch.

Will you be at the Indiana rally??
 
Joe, you are correct. I found a reprint of the manual and this an old basic points replacement type ignition. It uses the stock ignition advancer and appears to have two pickups so there is no way to reduce coil "on" time.

Crowhorse, if you want to stay with that ignition i would recommend a durable replacement coil that could handle the heat. Dyna green coils are 3 ohm and would work just fine with your current ignition set up. It looks like they run about $130 a pair. I am sure there are other coil options as well. If you like the advantages of multiple spark and adjustable ignition curves, save your money and we'll build you a system that REALLY makes your Wing fly...lol.

No matter what path you take, its cool that you are getting your bike out of storage. Have fun!
 

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