hotter coils for 1100 (Dodge Neon Retro)

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The DIS-2 eliminates the need for ballast resistors as it only needs a trigger signal to set off the CDI to send the 480 volts to the blaster coils... the Multi-Spark is only used below 3000 RPM as to help to make the burning of the fuel more efficient and it only adds about an additional 2 degrees of dwell time of spark (might be wrong, but the website and docs for the coils and DIS-2 will give exact info) which can give more power and cleaner burns..

I KNOW that it got rid of an annoying slight miss at idle on my Jeep, and makes a difference in how the exhaust sounds at highway speeds through my Flowmaster 40 and 3" stainless exhaust system... no misses and constant power...

Could only make the Wing more reliable and maybe a little more frugal on gasoline... only down side I see is finding a place to mount the DIS-2 as I believe it is a bit bigger than the original CDI/ignition unit it would be replacing.....


Rich
 
toy are you poking at me again, I'm gonna tell Joe Drum on you...This is starting to sound very interesting to me.. :popcorn: I'm going to watch this post closely...I would really enjoy it if someone sets this up, mounting it isn't a problem, there's probably a few different ways..I think I just like mods. I think I'm addicted to modifications.. :shock: :shock:
 
NO Bev not poking fun at you.. I just think you have taken the place of the Secret skunk works down in Lancaster Ca.. They secretly developed the U2 and the Blackbird. I just think that your thinking out side of the box will lead to bigger and better things. Kust think whar would not have happend if Newton, or Bell, orMarconi had not thought out side the box. I am a dox thinker (if it comes out of a box i can handle that ). I just want to free you up so you can reach your full potential. :music2: :music2: :music2: :music2: :music2: :music2: :Egyptian: :smilie_happy:
 
Well alrighty then, someone will get this project done, and I will follow..Toy guess what? Your a silly rabbit.. I just need to know what I need to do step by step and I will or might do it..Do I put the purple wire with the orange and blue one or the what? I just don't wanta blow my ass up..I have not messed with my coils at all...No need to yet..
 
As I had PM'd Beaver, As soon as my stock ignition has a problem I PROMISE (makes a sign of crossing his heart) "cross my heart and hope to..." that I WILL do this mod....

As far as the hook up, if you look at the PDF instruction sheets available on the MSD Ignition website for these two items, as far as the hookup from the coils to the DIS-2, it is a plug that is already from them for them... as far as hooking into the bike's wiring, it is only +12V, Ground and the trigger wire from the distributer... all the other stuff is done inside the DIS-2 including Rev-limiter and other features....

https://msdignition.com/WorkArea/DownloadAsset.aspx?id=15032386152 for the DIS-2

https://msdignition.com/WorkArea/DownloadAsset.aspx?id=15032386153 for the DIS-2 HO

https://msdignition.com/WorkArea/DownloadAsset.aspx?id=15032386154 For the EXTREME PROGRAMMABLE MIDGET DIS-2

https://msdignition.com/WorkArea/DownloadAsset.aspx?id=15032386230 for the BLASTER Coil Pack


Just thought you might be interested that the DIS-2 MSRP is about $600 , so this is considered an EXTREME modification, not one for those of limited funds... The DIS-2 MIDGET can have TWO precision timing curves programmed into it that can be set to something like 1/2 degree of timing change per 100 RPM increase... so CUSTOM timing curves for different types of riding could be set up... it even has a timing retard feature for easier start ups.... this is some HEAVY DUTY SH*T my friends, and not for the light of heart or pocketbook....

I am stoked about doing THIS mod when I need it, and will be squirreling away the $$$ to fund it when the time is right.... ($2 bucks a day not spent on coffee would give me the DIS-2 in about a year) if I find a DISCOUNTED source for these items (any or all of them) I will post it so if anyone else who sees the potential of these things under the false tank of our rides wants to purchase them they can save some $$$...

AWESOME YES, OVERKILL?, I THINK NOT!!!!!!

"More power Mr. Scott"!!!!!


Rich (Big Grin)
 
A hotter plug will definitely clean itself better, but wont lean out a cylinder..an MSD coil pack from a Dodge Neon repair is easy to do, but I want to check resistances first, so I dont burn out the coil drivers. I have done a spark check at the plugs, and they seem good: but dynamic loading can obviously alter spark performance.
 
dan filipi":3nmjif1d said:
What about the wires?

New ends need to be made up, and what about the plug wire size, our 7 mm dinosaur copper core wire isn't good enough for a higher energy coil is it?

Oh and they all say standard ignition, how come the cheaper one won't work?

I'm going to order one so I want to make sure I'm getting the right one.
Click to expand...

Currently... I use Scosche 8-gauge amplifier power cable for ignition HT leads, D7EA's @ .034 to NGK caps without resistors and 1100 coils on my 1000 (so I can use my own wire). I had some cross-firing and also some grounding issues with those cheap factory wires. The outer diameter of the Scoshe jacket is a perfect fit for both the coil and the plug cap ends.
I peak at 22Kv while idling as read on my Bear engine analyzer.
 
...plus - the ignition noise coming through to my stereo was reduced to the point that I have hard time finding the noise vs. a hard time hearing clean music. Aside from things looking good on paper in using the 8-gauge wire with that huge strand count, this is when I knew I was on to something good; when my April Wine was heard while the engine was running without the engine noise.
 
Question concerning the overheating issues of some of the components, there is a mod to wire in an ignition relay to provide full power to the coils. From reading that post it sounds like that would reduce the overheating of the ignition units, is this relay a possible alternative to a ballast resistor. Possible and if so need better guidance on how to wire it in.
 
The modification was drawn up for vintage kawasaki's. It is not to replace the ballast resistor. It is to replace the old wires to the ballast with a fresh wire from the battery. Old wires and switches gain resistance over time and the result is lost voltage. The relay mod is using the power wire to the ballast as the "control" wire switching the relay on/off. That wire is removed from the ballast and attached to the relay. Then a fresh wire is attached to the battery cable at the start solenoid and to the relay. Another wire is attached to the relay and attached to the ballast where the old wire was removed. A 30 amp fuse is recommended in the new supply wire.
 
1980 GL1100 Interstate
Coil for # 1 and 2 are not firing.
Have confirmed 12V power supply as well as havng a trigger signal.
Now I have read up on coil replacement both on other forums and the 4 pages here and It is still not clear to me..
The basic wiring of the coil appears to be simple, you have a 12 V supply, which is center wire, and the the two signal wires.

So could someone with knowledge tell me--
Will the coil for a 97 Dodge neon work for my application?
If so DO I need to worry about adding some resistor--if so, what size and how is it wired in.

Thanks for any input
 
Since 80 does not have a ballast I'd guess no ballast is needed. Not sure if the ohms are the same on the 97 neon coils are the same as the stock 80 coils. From my reading the ohms rating ( coil resistance) of the replacement coils need to be the same or just slightly higher for them to work.
 
I haven't really sorted all this out in my head so I hate to really say anything but my understanding is the Neon coils (or just about any coil) will work without a resistor but it may overheat not just the coils but the non-available new (faik) spark units.
3 ohm resistor seems to be what is needed but the Neon coil requirement needs to be verified.
 
1.3 what im hearing for the ballist ...but this is all hear say and it dosnt discrabe witch 1100 its for all the yrs are totaly different except 80 -81 ...82 has ballist ...83 has ballist but is totaly different than 82 ....im going through an 80 right now im fixing to post pics of spark unitd and coils take a look ...soon they will be there...1980 cpr thread
 
im thinking you swtch the spark unit around and if it moves the spark to the other cylinders then its the spark unit ....here a pic of spark umits
image.php

i havnt check for sure that they change from one to the other but i think so....if it dont maove the spark then its probably the or beyond the point as in wire and ends of of wires at plugs
 
I can say for sure since I have this on my own 1100, another one I had and a 1200 I worked on and know of several others and none have had any trouble with the spark units. A 0.5 ohm ballast resistor would be OK to install if you are worried about it.
 
i beleave dave is the original moder here on this neon coils thing so were listening to the most experenced here i may go for neon coils in the 80 if i can find some cheap to give it a try ...there is a whole bunch of lack of nubers put together to realy see what it adds up too in matching all the parts together
 

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