How big of a job is a carb rebuild?

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Cervantes

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Well, spring is just around the corner and it is time that I start sorting out things on my 79 Goldwing... all of the things I meant to do months ago!

One thing I am considering but cannot decide on. I think I need to do a carb rebuild. A local bike store said they could do it for $400. That is a lot of money right now and I have no way of knowing if they would do it right.

So I am thinking I might get Randakks kit with the parts and the video. But before I do, I am wondering if I am biting off more than I can chew. So I was wondering about how long such a project would take for a first-timer, and how complicated it is. I have never done a carb rebuild. I am aware there are a million tiny parts and that great care is needed. I am good with that, but worry that it may be a job best left to "experts."

I usually do my own adjustments, maintenance, and repairs - but I jsut don't know how complicated this process is. Hard to tell from the tutorials I have seen.

Any thoughts on the time requirements and complexity of rebuilding with the Randakk video and kit???

Thanks!
Cervantes
 
I ask first what problems are you having and what is the history of the bike?
The reason this is important is I think that many guys go into the carbs when opening them up may not be necessary.
Often times running issues are ignition related or only a problem in one carb.

Carb work is not complex, though some make it out to be.
Patience and keeping everything organized is most important.
Going into carbs may seem scary never having worked on them but it's just a bunch of parts.

I can't speak for Randakks video but I do hear its worth the cost but again, it's just a bunch of parts and a few passages that need to be cleaned well.

Granted there a few guys you can send them to and have it done if you want to invest the cash, and in some cases that may be the best option but the overall condition of the rack would decide that.
 
dan filipi":2wdlp7v0 said:
I ask first what problems are you having and what is the history of the bike?

Good question. When I bought it, it ran decent, but often cut out a bit at Low RPM. This made it hard to manage in parking lots since it was hard to keep it from stalling while also keeping balance as it is a bit to tall and keeps me on my toes!

The guy I bought it from said it needed a carb sync and that was all. I think that made me suspect of the carbs.

I am trying to remember the other things I have done so far... new plugs, fuel filter, new timing belt and adjustment, even loosening the fuel cap. I tried a carb sync but would like to try it again as my gauge was not great.

OTOH, I did not get new points or spark plug cables yet. I also did not do a compression test, though I believe it to be good... But now I have a compression gauge I will test it.

So it sounds like I may be jumping the gun to jump right into a carb rebuild.

I am really getting anxious to go on a road trip. we still have snow on our road (we live on a dirt road and it has not thawed all winter.) It has been TOOOOO long!

I'll keep you posted and thanks for being a sounding board and sharing your experience.

Thanks
Cevantes
 
It sounds like you only have problems in the idle jets.

If it's running and rideable I would run through a few tanks with 8oz. ATF in each tank.
I think your better off to not run ANY kinds of cleaners through the carbs other that ATF.
It is safe and won't damage any seals but it's a good cleaner.
 
It needing a carburetor synchronization may be but, more than likely if it is now to the point of stalling on a regular basis then the engine should sound like that of a tractor when idling due to the primary chain having tension/loosing tension/having tension/loosing tension and making slapping noises as it bounces around in there. The noise should be pretty obvious.

The ignition cables are built into the ignition coils. You could trim the ends of the plug wires to get at better wire but, replacing them requires replacing the coils as well. Options are GL1100 coils, aftermarket replacements or Dans recent conversion to "the CBR mod" using smaller Honda coils from another bike. Another option is a automobile tower coil popularized in another forum that seems to work well. There are options.
If you are running a point ignition, I would certainly make sure that the points are clean and properly adjusted. For many, adjusting points and cleaning carburetors are one in the same on the Richter Scale.
 
They are really not as hard as everyone makes it sound. But I agree with Dan sometimes you do not need to do a complete tear down and rebuild.
This last carb rebuild I did I just took the fuel bowls off and the upper sliders and cleaned the bowls and sliders and changed bowl gasket, needle and seat and it worked good.
Biggest thing is check the condition of the rubber, like accelerator pump and idle valve.
They sometimes get old and hard over years and stop working, and also the gas we use here in California has lots of alcohol in it, "summer blend."
That is a real problem with rubber in your fuel system, (stupid carb and there regs)!!
Take your fuel bowls off first and check to see what if any junk is in the bowl.
Also if you do just a partial rebuild like bowl gaskets and needle and seat you should very carefully blow out air passages and jets.
Under the sliders they have air passages that should be sprayed with carb clean and blown out, same with jets in your fuel bowl area, that and transfer tubes between each carb.
Oh and look at your air fuel mixture screws, they should be taken out and the passage cleaned and the little orings replaced.


(Sure wish you had a spell checker on this editor.) My spell checker wife is not here and I am on my own to check my spelling! :help:
 
Stevej's wing":1b1o9cu6 said:
Marvel mystery oil in the tank is better and less smoke out the exhaust then ATF.
Possibly, but I used MMO when I first got my bike then found out the air cutoffs were all melted goo.
I'm not saying MMO did this because I tried other stuff including Seafoam but I'm certain ATF is safe on them.

Careful letting ANY cleaner near those cutoff diaphragms. They are a different breed and damage easily.
 
Stevej's wing":2nnqbqzx said:
(Sure wish you had a spell checker on this editor.) My spell checker wife is not here and I am on my own to check my spelling! :help:
Use Google Chrome, it's all the spell checker needed.
 
Thanks for all of the tips!

I did run some Sea Form through it, and usually add ATF, though I have been less than precise on how much I am putting in... which may be a problem too.

I will definitely start with the points. It will be a slow-going project as my time is so wrapped up with work right now... but at least I have another ride in the meantime. But the VStar 250, as much as I like it, is NOT a Goldwing! So I will try to get the wing going ASAP!

If I do end up needed a carb rebuild, I will wither do it myself or send it to one of the people mentioned above to rebuild. That local shop says they do Goldwing carbs all the time, but they would probably say that even if they never saw a Goldwing in their lives! I would prefer to spend a little bit more and go with an expert!

Thanks so much. I hope I can find the time to bring 'er back to life and back on the road soon! I need a road trip as soon as it warms up a bit!

Cheers,
Cervantes
 
I would check the ignition circuits first really. Check your voltage at the coils and at the battery and compare. They should match. If not adding a relay to the circuit may help a lot.
 
Well I started the Goldwing up and took a quick spin. It started up in just a few tries, ran rough for a few minutes as it warmed up, then it smoothed out and ran fairly good. Still cuts out a bit at low RPMs, but not too bad.

I am going to run through tune up... points, check the voltage at the coils and the other things recommended by all of you. I will keep you all posted and will no doubt have more questions along the way. I just wanted to give you all an update.

Thanks for all the help so far!
Cervantes
 

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