How do i bleed the rear brakes on my 1100?

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Montecman

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I noticed that I had no rear brakes so i checked the rear brake fluid, NONE, so I filled it up and went for a ride. I still dont have any rear brakes, dead peddle. Do i need to bleed the rear brakes? If so,....how do i do it?
 
Yes you will have to bleed the rear brakes,But more importantly ,where did the fluid go?
You may have a bad line or caliper leaking,fluid just dont evaporate in a closed system.

To bleed the brakes you will have to pump up the peddle,and release the bleeder as you hold the peddle,and repeat untell you get the end results.

I always used a mighty vac bleeder,but bought a injector that worked awsome when I did my brake lines.I just shot thr brake fluid from the caliper up and instantly had full peddle and handle.
 
dan filipi":2vpvclia said:
Ya, fluid had to go somewhere.
To be so low to not have brakes there'd have to be a leak for quite awhile. The fluid has to be a visible leak somewhere.


You are both right,...you would think that there would be a leak puddle. But nope. I park it in the same two spots all the time and there are no leaks. Melba is leak-free.

I know that i need to replace my front & rear brakes but could all the brake fluid be in the extended brake calipers and the brake line? If so, my peddle wouldn't be dead. I'll do my rear brakes tomorrow evening and post something.

Thanx fellow old-wingers. (you're not old, but the bikes,....you know)
 
Montecman":3ugvvdc3 said:
I know that i need to replace my front & rear brakes but could all the brake fluid be in the extended brake calipers and the brake line? If so, my peddle wouldn't be dead.


I've replaced rear pads 3 times, all 3 times they had gotten just on the edge of metal to metal.
When I change pads the fluid level always comes up of course because the piston gets pushed back in.
I think between changes I'd top the fluid at least 2 times so you may be on to something here.
It may be if the fluid isn't topped up during wear down the fluid level would be so low you'd have air in the master.

Whatchya could do as a test is put the new pads in, fill the reservoir to full, then put the worn pads back in and pump then seat the pads with the pedal. That would prove or disprove the theory.
 
yep im old ,my bike is old and ive done the same thing , let it go right down to no brakes, pretty bad when you run out of fluid in a closed system with no leaks...makes you want bitch out the maintense crew but you have to find a mirror to see them!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
if you had no fluid after putting fresh in.. there's a leak some where... and if this is the first time.. it could have asbsorbed condensation and the rears dragging a bit caused it to get hot and boil out.. you may have a leak onto the exhaust and it is being burned by the pipes..
 
Joep":3uedzi9a said:
if you had no fluid after putting fresh in.. there's a leak some where... and if this is the first time.. it could have asbsorbed condensation and the rears dragging a bit caused it to get hot and boil out.. you may have a leak onto the exhaust and it is being burned by the pipes..
Thanx ya'll. There was no leak or loss of fluid after I filled the rear bottle up.

What bolt do i loosen to bleed the rear system?
 
The bleeder is on the caliper. I had no front or rear brakes on my 1100 when I got it. Ended up installing rebuild kits in both master cylinders and cleaning out both of the front and the rear calipers and installed new piston seals. When you rebuild the master cylinders, pay extra attention to the weep holes (returns) and make sure that they are not clogged with corrosion. Completely flush the brake lines and refill with fresh fluid. You can use a speed bleeder or you can go by you local auto parts store and pick up a small brake bleeder bottle for around $5 or so. That is what I use and it works great! I was able to bleed my system and I swear I could do a stoppie if I really wanted to. It's not hard work and can be done in 2 - 3 beers er... I mean hours. Oh yeah, welcome to the forum.
 

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