I think my timing belts is too tight after replacing

[ckahleer]

I loosened the front bolt on the idler wheel about 1 turn. Loosened the back bolt just 1/4 turn and the belt got loose enough to remove the old belt and install the new one. When I tightened the rear bolt on the idler wheel, the belt got tight. This happened on both sides.
Maybe I'm over thinking this and all is well, but in my opinion the belts seem too tight. Does just tightening the idler wheel bolts back down automatically adjust for the correct tension?

 

[pidjones]

The springs automatically adjust for correct tension, then the bolts hold it there.

Front and back bolts? There are inner (the idler arms pivot on them) and outer (with slots for the idler arm to move until bolted tight).

 

[julimike54]

As someone pointed out very old springs probably are no longer the same strength as they used to be. Must be why the 1200 service manual tells you to measure the belt deflection and check tension (as shown on the bottom of the page attached)
https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/galle ... e_id=31043

 

[ckahleer]

pidjones » Yesterday- 21:09[/url]":3d2ylee8]
The springs automatically adjust for correct tension, then the bolts hold it there.

Front and back bolts? There are inner (the idler arms pivot on them) and outer (with slots for the idler arm to move until bolted tight).

Since the inner bolt is the pivot bolt, it may be dragging the plate with it. Since I broke the outer bolt completely loose and only loosened the inner bolt less than 1/4 turn, it may have never broke free of the idler plate. The plate just moved with the rotation of the bolt. I don't think the spring played any part in the adjustment.
I'll go do it again. This time making sure the inner bolt is loosened as much as the outer.
Does this sound possible? If you tighten the inner bolt before the outer bolt you can over tighten the belt?

 

[pidjones]

ckahleer » Sun May 10, 2020 11:36 am[/url]":2i83lr0x]

pidjones » Yesterday- 21:09[/url]":2i83lr0x]
The springs automatically adjust for correct tension, then the bolts hold it there.

Front and back bolts? There are inner (the idler arms pivot on them) and outer (with slots for the idler arm to move until bolted tight).

Since the inner bolt is the pivot bolt, it may be dragging the plate with it. Since I broke the outer bolt completely loose and only loosened the inner bolt less than 1/4 turn, it may have never broke free of the idler plate. The plate just moved with the rotation of the bolt. I don't think the spring played any part in the adjustment.
I'll go do it again. This time making sure the inner bolt is loosened as much as the outer.
Does this sound possible? If you tighten the inner bolt before the outer bolt you can over tighten the belt?

Then, tighten the inner bolts last.

 

[ckahleer]

julimike54 » 2020-05-10- 9:11[/url]":1ua8fpfj]
As someone pointed out very old springs probably are no longer the same strength as they used to be. Must be why the 1200 service manual tells you to measure the belt deflection and check tension (as shown on the bottom of the page attached)
https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/galle ... e_id=31043

I checked the belt deflection as described in the GL1200 manual and they were within spec. So, I left as is, and moved on to rebuilding brake cylinders. The fun never stops.

 

[joedrum]

Good move I'd say ..most times belts can get to loose is the problem ...there is a free spot in the rotation of crank where one head will not have any valve spring pressure on the belt ..after belt is set right you want to go to that spot and check for proper belt deflection ..and adjust tensioner to get it

Then rotate crank till other head is in free position and adjust lots tension also ..you just can't get proper tension on belts from the T1 position only ..to much not the same to get it right in my opinion ..when belts are tension good it's like there one belt ..not tighter on one side than the other and viseaversa