Idler pulley rebuild or buy new?

[dan filipi]

The 1200 idler I had was making a lot of noise and now the used 1100 idler I put on is making more noise than I'm comfortable with using.
So.....I'm looking at options.

Of course anything used is going to be the same age so that's rather pointless.

I drilled out an 1100 idler and pulled it from it's back plate.

Notice the grease leaking out:

A close up....this is why I don't want to waste time with a used pulley:

After cleaning,

I'm considering modding in new idler like sandiegobrass did in his writeup instead of buying New Old Stock,

Any thoughts on doing this?
Should be pretty straight forward.

 

[backlander]

That's the way I'd go, new ones are pretty pricey aren't they ?

 

[dan filipi]

I was seeing between $70-$100 each new.
The idler referenced in his writeup I can get for $16-$20 each plus a bit of hardware.

 

[backlander]

Yep, I'd be backyard teching that idler in a new york minute at those price differences. :smilie_happy: I looked at that procedure a while back and doesn't look to be to big of a job. Go for it !!

 

[zman]

I`m guessing that is not a pressed in bearing you can just replace the bearing?
I`m sure some used ones have been replaced with new, just finding a good seller that will evaluate the product, looks like it has a removable bearing seal, possibly could be repacked with grease during belt changes.
This is an area I know nothing about so I`m just guessing here.
Good writeup on the subject, seen another over at NGW, maybe the same author.

 

[dan filipi]

From what sandiegobrass was saying makes sense, that the bearing is a common part that Honda added a roller to.
I suppose the bearing could be replaced and keep the stock roller but is it worth it at this point?

 

[slabghost]

There is probably a sealed bearing a bit wider than the belts that could be fitted to the bracket. No external roller would be needed for that.

 

[zman]

I suppose the choice is yours, I used to rebuild electric motors and we had a nice supply of bearings from our distributor, one of the things that we did was to take a brand new bearing and remove the dust seal and add a dab of grease, they hardly ever put any grease in those new bearings and we would have motors coming back after a year with screaming bearings, that solved the problem and they ran years some a decade before needing service again.
If I were to get any bearing new or used I would carefully remove the dust seal and check the grease content, need a tiny pick to get them off without bending or tearing the seal.
I do mean a dab, not a full pack.

 

[mcgovern61]

Me?? I would buy new. But that is because I am not real fond of messing with or changing this type of OEM stuff.

I know someone that changed a bearing like this on a tensioner for a Cummins diesel generator because he didn't want to pay the OEM price (which was over $280). It worked like a charm for nearly 7 months and then let go. In the process of breaking off of the bolt the pulley dropped into the crank pulley with the belt wrapped around it. Needless to say, he lost that generator.

 

[Ansimp]

As Jeff said you could repack the bearing provided it is not worn out. I think your fitment of the 1100 idler may of seen too much belt tension which does cause excessive heat from a bearing and possible failure. The refurbishing diagram using a 12mm wheel stud should be as good if not better than stock and usually the outside wheel surface is fine. I have done many alternator/ ac compressor idlers where I have replaced bearings effectively. One thing I will say is don't skimp on the quality of the replacement bearing. :yes:

 

[dan filipi]

Guys, keep in mind you cannot simply remove the stock bearing from the back plate, grease it then reinstall it.
The center had to be drilled to get it off so re-installing isn't an option.

 

[Ansimp]

dan filipi » Fri Jul 04, 2014 6:59 am[/url]":cjqekujj]
Guys, keep in mind you cannot simply remove the stock bearing from the back plate, grease it then reinstall it.
The center had to be drilled to get it off so re-installing isn't an option.

Good point Dan, I forgot about that :doh:

 

[zman]

I get it, you cant even get to the dust seal without cutting it, and once cut your screwed.
I dont know if this is the same mod as the one you have but here is another one..or the same.
https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic ... 11&t=10919

 

[dan filipi]

I see Gerry's point in buying OEM.
I wonder though how long they would now last having sat idle for 30+ years versus modding in a new Gates brand idler.
I mean just for the sake of discussion. OEM would likely outlast me anyhow.

 

[joedrum]

i aint paying rip off prices for anything is my opinion ...i can just look at the honda stuff ..and tell its not high quality bearing in any way ... in fact it cheap construction .. ive been around stuff all my life to form my opinion on that

 

[dan filipi]

Just for grins I'm going to open this idler up further and see if I can get a bearing number and manufacturer.

 

[Ansimp]

Yes Joe but how much cheap 33 year old construction can you ride like the Rats Nest? I didn't realise what a Honda fan I have become after owning all my 23 year old plus bikes. Hooch may be quick Joe but eventually it would only be a tiny spec in the CBR mirrors, I find it hard not to squirt up to 120+ every chance I get. :whistling:

 

[joedrum]

so far tony the only limit ive found on the whole set up is the rest of the bike and me ... if i had the means to shore up the rest of the bike and myself id go to see what it could do ... were talking bearing here and its quality ... ive got tons of experience here with the things ive done in life ... and has nothing to do with bikes ... the reality is .. there is not much in demamd for this bearing to meet ...witch is why id say it is what it is ... and yes ..the whole idea that these bearing have lasted 30 plus years is pretty much proof of that and honda did a great job here .. i dont even see this as a weak spot in my book ... not something i put much thought in ...but id never pay 70$ for this bearing ever is my point ....

 

[zman]

dan filipi » Thu Jul 03, 2014 4:22 pm[/url]":yn0xsh5s]
Just for grins I'm going to open this idler up further and see if I can get a bearing number and manufacturer.

Outer edge is where they usually put it, I`m saying facing out so you should be able to read a number without removing the bearing. Real tiny print.

 

[dan filipi]

Pulled the front cap off. I wiped it but it was full of grease behind it:

The rest looks pressed together and too much work to carve into it further.
My guess is there's a front and rear bearing.